HOW-TO: PnP you Map/Tip Clamp

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for this "How To" to work if these steps are altered, skipped, used with another vendors clamp. Also be careful tuning your clamps guys otherwise you WILL end with a blown motor.


This is a crude first draft but I wanted to get the information out and will be updating this weekend since I already ordered another harness to do a step by step photo and "LIVE" video tutorial for you all. :bigthumb:

Special Notes: Realtune Map/Tip clamp used for PnP harness


Materials:

1) H13 extension Harness (w/14ga) Link (http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&_trksid=m39&_nkw=GO+Series+H13+Plug-N-Play+Headlight+Bulb+Wire+Harness)

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/bikerozzy/Untitled.jpg

2)14ga Automotive Wire

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/bikerozzy/14gaWire.jpg

3) 16-14ga butt connectors

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/bikerozzy/buttconnectors.jpg



First Step:

You need to take the male connectors from the H13 harness and modify them. They have three tabs on them. When looking directly into the male connector the left has one tab while the right has two. You must cut/dremel the furthest right tab in order to be able to connect it to your stock SRT-4 harness. Take your time as if you don't get all the tab off it will not fit or if you take too much you may end up with a loose connection. Dremel little at a time, recheck, and run your finger over to feel if you have gotten all of the tab off and its nice and smooth.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/bikerozzy/cut.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/bikerozzy/IMAG0055.jpg


Second step:

*Please do not skip this step as it can save you time if you have any problems*
You are going to plug in the connectors into your Map/Tip to ensure proper fit. Now it will be a snug fit, when I say snug think wet suit snug. The connector to your stock SRT-4 harness will be easier and will hear it lock in. Now your Map/Tip sensor will be a bit tougher because of access to location. Best used method is a slight side by side motion until its fully seated. Do not use brute force as you can bend your pins! After you have both connectors completely connected run them as a pass-through cable. This mean to drive your car around for a day or two without splicing in your clamp just yet. It will save time in the long run if you get any codes thrown by limiting the possibilities down to just the connectors not fully contacting. You also can take more off with the dremel, make sure they are fully seated and try again until your able to run your car with zero issues or CEL.


Third Step:

So you haven't had any problems or thrown codes running as a pass-through? Its time to splice into the harness. Its much easier to remove them from the car for this however layout where the clamp is going be located and cut the needed length of wires you will be need with a little extra to spare in case you need to cut again or a bit more slack. You can use multicolor wires for each connection to your clamp. I just used some tape and labeled them to not mix them up. Do what makes you feel the most comfortable so you don't get them backwards. While running them as a pass-through if you noticed the wire you needed to cut (on your stock SRT-4 harness) connects to the red wire on the H13 extension harness for both the Map and Tip. You will cut both red wires and add your 14ga wire with the 16-14 butt connectors.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/bikerozzy/IMAG0056.jpg


Fourth Step:

Now you can go ahead and use shrink wrap over the butt connectors, wrap it in electrical tape, wire loom, or any combination of these to clean up the look of it after you have doubled checked your work and crimps are nice and tight.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/bikerozzy/IMAG0058.jpg


Fifth Step:


Now that its all wrapped up go ahead and plug in your newly made PnP harness and run the wires along the engine as your wish to make it look stock and zip tie any over hang. Now go grab yourself a brew or two, if you haven't already as you just kept your SRT-4 harness a virgin. :beerchug:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/bikerozzy/IMAG0059.jpg


Clamp Step:

Add your ring terminals to the other end of your harness to the clamp along with your 12v+ and Ground


Happy Tuning!!! :wave:




*Brought to you by the "UncagedChipmunk"*

In on page 1.

Nice pics

awesome, i wish you ha came up with this a year ago :flame:

on the 5th picture from the top, it looks like your giving birth to the connector <<<useless observation :bigthumb:

good job man
the only thing I'd do different is ditch the butt connections in favor of soldering them

Nice job! :bigthumb:

good job man
the only thing I'd do different is ditch the butt connections in favor of soldering them

Reason why I use butt connector is I have seen and experienced high quality factory soldered connections break. Enough heat and vibrations and it will stress crack and end up disconnecting. Left me riding my motorcycle 2am in the night with my headlights going out on a unlighted bridge. :scared: Since then I like a more solid piece of hardware in between. However for all my customs computer components I favor to solder them but that's a stationary object. Each to their own though, just going from personal experience.

awesome, i wish you ha came up with this a year ago :flame:

on the 5th picture from the top, it looks like your giving birth to the connector <<<useless observation :bigthumb:

Well... how do you think I held it while holding the camera with both hands? :jester:

Love your step two! I like how you made this test a part of the overall process.

Now that we have this available to us, all I need to do is get a downpipe, scan gauge, wideband, and clamp .... oh, and another job to pay for it all.

Love your step two! I like how you made this test a part of the overall process.

Now that we have this available to us, all I need to do is get a downpipe, scan gauge, wideband, and clamp .... oh, and another job to pay for it all.

Thank you :bigthumb: I included this step because I like to keep the process of elimation to a minimum if something goes wrong. Especially electronics when you add a bunch of new components you have to test and go over each one to figure out the problem and is very time consuming not to mention frustration usually gets the better of most of us.

Plus seeing how so many people where throwing codes and I wanted to be 100% positive it wasn't the harness.

Thank you :bigthumb: I included this step because I like to keep the process of elimation to a minimum if something goes wrong. Especially electronics when you add a bunch of new components you have to test and go over each one to figure out the problem and is very time consuming not to mention frustration usually gets the better of most of us.

Plus seeing how so many people where throwing codes and I wanted to be 100% positive it wasn't the harness.

Oh, I understand as I'm an Electrical Engineer that does troubleshooting for a living, but I just liked the fact that you included this as a step for everyone.

Freaking' Awesome! Great work.

I'll add this to the How-to index

Hey here is a really stupid question, since I will be doing this in the next few weeks. Where exactly is the MAP sensor? And other than this connection illustrated, its just power and ground right, and thats all?