remote start in 15 mins [Archive] - Dodge Caliber Forums

: remote start in 15 mins


speedy srt4
11-22-2010, 10:28 AM
check it out i install remotes for my job and our supplier set us sum of these out, don't know all the features like range and wat not but looks like anyone can install it http://bypassevolution.com/

08sunburst
11-22-2010, 02:40 PM
Directed electronics also makes the same thing, and i would trust directed over anyone else.

Its also not completely plug and play, as you will still have to AT LEAST run the brake/clutch wire

08SilverBeast
11-22-2010, 02:44 PM
looks easy enough to install. is there a bypass for the clutch?? send one my way I'll be the guinea pig :read:

speedy srt4
11-22-2010, 04:22 PM
just got done putting one into a 07 jeep wrangler, all plug in play used the evo chr bypass module with t harness, and the ultrastart remote, 2800 feet range and took me 10 minutes lol,

CodeTech
11-23-2010, 01:46 AM
Directed electronics also makes the same thing, and i would trust directed over anyone else.

Its also not completely plug and play, as you will still have to AT LEAST run the brake/clutch wire

Why do you say that? Clutch and brake switches ARE on the Can...

Actually the Fortin system looks pretty darn good.

08sunburst
11-23-2010, 06:17 AM
Why do you say that? Clutch and brake switches ARE on the Can...

Actually the Fortin system looks pretty darn good.

My apologies, not the brake wire, just the clutch.

If you read through the "install guide" on their website, it shows a diagram of all of the wires that run through their harnesses.

The parking lights, 12 volt power, starter, and ignition(2) wires dont seem to run through the harness, and looks to me like it requires manual connections.


http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/matthewstetz/Untitled-5.jpg

UN4GTBL
11-23-2010, 06:23 AM
My apologies, not the brake wire, just the clutch.

If you read through the "install guide" on their website, it shows a diagram of all of the wires that run through their harnesses.

The parking lights, 12 volt power, starter, and ignition(2) wires dont seem to run through the harness, and looks to me like it requires manual connections.


http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/matthewstetz/Untitled-5.jpg
yeah but the video is for a caliber and it was just plug and play...a tad confused here too

08sunburst
11-23-2010, 06:26 AM
yeah but the video is for a caliber and it was just plug and play...a tad confused here too

Yea, i watched the video.. My concern is that there are required connections to be made, and they play it off as plug and play.

Also, the caliber is a low amp power supply that goes to the ignition(10amp) most remote start systems require 30amps.

On quite a few chrysler vehicles, its required to run a new power wire from the battery to the remote start power connection, and im pretty sure the caliber is one of them.

bryant
11-23-2010, 09:20 AM
I think some of you guys missed a post above where he says he installed one and it works "all plug in play" he said

08sunburst
11-23-2010, 10:34 AM
I think some of you guys missed a post above where he says he installed one and it works "all plug in play" he said

He said he installed one on a jeep. When he installs one on a stick shift caliber, and says its plug and play, then ill believe it.

Jeeps dont require running additional power wires. Chryslers like the grand caravan, cherokee, town and cpuntry, sebring, and maybe the caliber, all require the addition of a higher amperage power wire, unless this magic module somehow can raise the power of the ignition power source to support a remote start, safely.

Nothing with these cars is just plug and play..

Maybe it is, but until i see it work, i wont believe it.

spitsnaugle
11-23-2010, 11:22 AM
If it can be done nearly completely PNP I will be putting a remote start on my csrt before the end of winter.

Time to research like mad I guess.

CodeTech
11-23-2010, 01:54 PM
As I see it, the PnP module goes completely through the CAN bus. The extra connections are only required for non-CAN vehicles, which is why there are two different harnesses.

The clutch switches are both, for certain, on the CAN. As for how this thing would work, there is no reason to believe it requires a high current starter relay on a Caliber, it would just instruct the ECM to go ahead and start.

That's the beauty of the CAN bus. We all know the downsides (headlight change switching on rear defrost, for example), but one of the benefits of going to CAN was a reduction in wiring for add-on modules.

I'm not saying it's certain, I would like to know that someone installed one successfully, in which case I'll get one. I really REALLY want remote start, it was -29C overnight here last night.

08sunburst
11-23-2010, 03:21 PM
Yea, i just dont see in their wiring diagram, any information on a clutch wire. Thats a necessity for me, and if it doesnt list it, then that means you would have to splice their harness and run the brake wire to the clutch, assuming its the same polarity.

Here is the wiring if you were to install a normal remote start that is not plug and play. These are ALL of the connections for remote start, keyless, and alarm.


Power Unlock LT.GREEN/DK.GREEN (-) 250 OHM RESISTOR, MUST USE A RELAY
USE 250 OHM RESISTOR FOR UNLOCK, SAME WIRE FOR LOCK
PowerLock LT.GREEN/DK.GREEN (-) 1000 OHM RESISTOR, MUST USE A RELAY
USE 1K OHM RESISTOR FOR LOCK, SAME WIRE FOR UNLOCK


Security
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery RED/ORANGE (10) A (+) IGNITION HARNESS
Ignition 1 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION HARNESS
Starter 1 PINK/LT.BLUE (+) IGNITION HARNESS
ON RT MODELS, THERE IS NO PINK/BLUE 1ST START WIRE. CONTINUE WITH INSTALL AS USUAL AND THE CAR WILL START WITHOUT IT.
All Door Trigger
USE INDIVIDUAL DOOR TRIGGERS AND DOUBLE DIODE ISOLATE EACH WIRE TO PREVENT BACKFEED TO THE BCM MODULE
Domelight Super YELLOW/WHITE (+) DRIVER A PILLAR HARNESS
LF Latch VIOLET/BLACK (-) EITHER KICK, BROWN PLUG PIN 3
YOU MUST DOULBLE DIODE ISOLATE ALL FOUR DOOR TRIGGERS
RF Latch VIOLET/WHITE (-) EITHER KICK, BROWN PLUG PIN 11
YOU MUST DOULBLE DIODE ISOLATE ALL FOUR DOOR TRIGGERS
LR Latch VIOLET/GRAY (-) EITHER KICK, BROWN PLUG PIN 5
YOU MUST DOULBLE DIODE ISOLATE ALL FOUR DOOR TRIGGERS
RR Latch VIOLET/YELLOW (-) EITHER KICK, BROWN PLUG PIN 6
YOU MUST DOULBLE DIODE ISOLATE ALL FOUR DOOR TRIGGERS.
Trunk Trigger VIOLET/LT.BLUE (-) DRIVER KICK, BROWN PLUG PIN 13
MAY ALSO BE VIOLET/LIGHT BLUE ON SOME MODELS
Hood Trigger VIOLET/LT.BLUE (EXPORT ONLY) (-) PIN SWITCH UNDER HOOD
Alarm Disarm FACTORY REMOTE ONLY
Alarm Arm FACTORY REMOTE ONLY
Parking Lights WHITE/VIOLET (+) DRIVER KICK, HARNESS TO THE REAR
Low Crr Pk Lights DATA



Remote Start
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery RED/ORANGE (10) A (+) IGNITION HARNESS
Ignition 1 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION HARNESS
Accessory 1 SAME AS SECOND START WIRE (-) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY IS NEGATIVE THRU A 600 OHM RESISTOR. MUST USE A RELAY.
Starter 1 PINK/LT.BLUE (+) IGNITION HARNESS
ON RT MODELS, THERE IS NO PINK/BLUE 1ST START WIRE. CONTINUE WITH INSTALL AS USUAL AND THE CAR WILL START WITHOUT IT.
Starter 2 VIOLET/BROWN (SEE NOTE) (-) IGNITION HARNESS
SECOND START IS NEGATIVE THRU A 180 OHM RESISTOR. MUST USE A RELAY.
Anti-Theft Type SENTRY KEY
Anti-Theft Descript SENTRY KEY, TRANSPONDER
Key Sense VIOLET/BROWN (-) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
USE AN 8.5K OHM RESISTOR FOR KEYSENSE, SAME WIRE AS STARTER 2 AND ACCESSORY
Tachometer NOT BROWN/GRAY OR BROWN/YELLOW (AC) IGNITION COIL OR FUEL INJECTOR
Speed Sense WHITE/ORANGE TO DK.BLUE/ORANGE (AC) MANUAL TRANS., AT THE PCM, 58 PIN PLUG, PIN 38
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION VEHICLES, DK. GREEN/WHITE AT THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH, LT. GRAY PLUG, PIN 5.
Parking Lights WHITE/VIOLET (+) DRIVER KICK, HARNESS TO THE REAR
Low Crr. Pk Lights DATA
Brake Lights DK.GREEN/GRAY (+) DRIVER KICK, BROWN PLUG PIN 8
Reverse Lights WHITE/LT.GREEN (+) DRIVER KICK, HARNESS TO THE REAR
Horn DK.GREEN/VIOLET (-) CLUSTER, BLK 20 PIN PLUG, PIN 10

If you look at the Battery(+) connection, its listed as a 10 amp. Remote starters require 30 amps for power. Not for the ignition or starter, thats just the power for the actual remote start unit. Most Chryslers and a few other makes, require you to run a new power wire from the battery under the hood to the remote starter unit, so that the actual unit will not draw too much power through the ignition wiring, and cause fuses to blow, or a fire to start.

Also, if you look at the plug and play wiring diagram, the parking lights and battery(+) are not listed as running through the plug and play harness, and the diagram does not show connections for them on the plug and play harness. So, either they half assed the wiring diagram, and didnt put the information that is has those connections there, or it wont work without manual connections.


Also, keep in mind that the diagram i posted a few posts up, is the wiring for this plug and play kit WITH a remote start that is data link capable.

If you buy a remote start that isnt data link capable, there for SURE will be wiring that needs to be connected.

speedy srt4
11-23-2010, 05:31 PM
the jeep i did was all plug and play, and the page from fortons site is used with a differnet remote starter then wat was used in the video, I'll get the part number for the remote i used on the jeep, as far as the clutch line im unsure on that one, ill phone tech tommorrow and see wat he says

as far as the jeep i did this on, u don't get parklights but there working on a firmware to solve it, minor detail really, and the install was 15 mins in and out the shop door

UN4GTBL
11-23-2010, 05:37 PM
yeah, if we can get some guinea pig to test this out and have it work, there could be a bunch that are interested in it.

spitsnaugle
11-23-2010, 08:00 PM
yeah, if we can get some guinea pig to test this out and have it work, there could be a bunch that are interested in it.

Like myself.

UN4GTBL
11-23-2010, 08:01 PM
Like myself.
as well as UN4GTBL

RomeoOG
11-24-2010, 11:42 AM
It doesn't get as cold here in TX, but I wouldn't mind having it...

CodeTech
11-24-2010, 08:59 PM
It doesn't get as cold here in TX, but I wouldn't mind having it...

It's also great in summer when you want to let the A/C cool things down before you get in...

CodeTech
11-24-2010, 09:07 PM
08sunburst, I highly recommend you read up on CANbus.

You don't need ANY connections directly to anything. Every sensor is available to any other module in the car simply by asking on the data bus. All that you typed up there is COMPLETELY unnecessary in any CANbus vehicle (all 2008+, and all Calibers). There is no reason to run a spiderweb of wiring throughout a vehicle anymore. None.

Any module can respond to queries from other modules, so if the ECM logic requires a clutch switch feed a PnP autostart module can lie and say the clutch is pressed.

The module is self-powered through the same power supply that runs the ignition security module. It does not handle any current, it just sends and receives messages. You don't need 10A, you don't need clutch connection hacks, you don't need ANYTHING other than the ignition switch security bypass, which is why the module is T-d into that location.

(If you have the 2007 service manual, start at page 8E-180)

08sunburst
11-24-2010, 10:22 PM
like i said, ill believe it when i see it lol

tommyj
12-17-2010, 03:26 PM
any word on this working with a standard tranny?

jadenstate
12-18-2010, 12:21 AM
This is not exactly plug and play but close, you still need power (from the battery) ground, park lights, clutch bypass. Brake pedal, ignition, tach, and can wires are all in the harness

ACRucrazy
12-18-2010, 09:48 AM
Evo CHR is the same thing as the CHALL. Not 100% plug and play. The market is trying to get there, which I believe will happen eventually. That video is over a year old and a little misleading.

On a side note, as far as everthing being avail through can is one thing, interfacing and working 100% through can is another. I have not seen anything 100% yet with these type of interfaces.

On paper they work great, in practice not always.

08sunburst
12-18-2010, 10:33 AM
Evo CHR is the same thing as the CHALL. Not 100% plug and play. The market is trying to get there, which I believe will happen eventually. That video is over a year old and a little misleading.

On a side note, as far as everthing being avail through can is one thing, interfacing and working 100% through can is another. I have not seen anything 100% yet with these type of interfaces.

On paper they work great, in practice not always.




Ive done some research into this, and its not directly plug and play.


You will still need to solder four wires to the main vehicle wiring harness using the "bypass evolution" bypass.

There are a few bypasses out there that will work with the caliber, and the only one that is directly plug and play is the CHALL.

With the CHALL, it comes with the CHTH1 harness, and with the caliber you need the CHTH2 harness.

The CHTH2 harness is 20 bucks off amazon or whatever online retailer you get it from.

Chall = no soldering into the main harness, no tapping parking light wires, brake wires, clutch wires, etc etc.


If and when i put a remote start into the caliber, i want ZERO splicing and soldering. If i have ANY problems with the car, and it has to go to the dealer, the remote start would get pulled so that they dont try any funny business with the warranty.

But the CHALL IS plug and play.

Also, personally, i wold never put a remote start product, even a bypass, into my car without it being made by directed electronics. I have seem some other companies versions of what they think is a good product, and its mostly, always garbage.

jadenstate
12-18-2010, 10:51 AM
Ive done some research into this, and its not directly plug and play.


You will still need to solder four wires to the main vehicle wiring harness using the "bypass evolution" bypass.

There are a few bypasses out there that will work with the caliber, and the only one that is directly plug and play is the CHALL.

With the CHALL, it comes with the CHTH1 harness, and with the caliber you need the CHTH2 harness.

The CHTH2 harness is 20 bucks off amazon or whatever online retailer you get it from.

Chall = no soldering into the main harness, no tapping parking light wires, brake wires, clutch wires, etc etc.


If and when i put a remote start into the caliber, i want ZERO splicing and soldering. If i have ANY problems with the car, and it has to go to the dealer, the remote start would get pulled so that they dont try any funny business with the warranty.

But the CHALL IS plug and play.

Also, personally, i wold never put a remote start product, even a bypass, into my car without it being made by directed electronics. I have seem some other companies versions of what they think is a good product, and its mostly, always garbage.



You will never have complete plug and play, you will always need to bypass the clutch and find a power and ground. The new caravans run everything through can including park lights now, but for the caliber you will always have to hook up lights, clutch, power, ground. Even without the T harness its only a few more wires, still very easy. Also directed is not what it used to be, they have bought up so many junky brands now and not really made changes to them so its really hard to call. Autostart still seems to be one of the most reliable while compustar seems to be the most feature orientated.

I have put 3 remote starters in calibers now, one with the t harness and two without and all work very well with no glitches, the hardest part is getting the stupid dash apart.

08sunburst
12-18-2010, 11:05 AM
You will never have complete plug and play, you will always need to bypass the clutch and find a power and ground. The new caravans run everything through can including park lights now, but for the caliber you will always have to hook up lights, clutch, power, ground. Even without the T harness its only a few more wires, still very easy. Also directed is not what it used to be, they have bought up so many junky brands now and not really made changes to them so its really hard to call. Autostart still seems to be one of the most reliable while compustar seems to be the most feature orientated.

I have put 3 remote starters in calibers now, one with the t harness and two without and all work very well with no glitches, the hardest part is getting the stupid dash apart.

Did you use the CHALL with the CHTH2 harness?

The chth2 harness includes a fused power source, as well as ground, among other things..

ACRucrazy
12-18-2010, 10:53 PM
But the CHALL IS plug and play.

Also, personally, i wold never put a remote start product, even a bypass, into my car without it being made by directed electronics. I have seem some other companies versions of what they think is a good product, and its mostly, always garbage.

No its not.

There are several other companies out there that make very good product. There is no "best" brand out there. DEI isnt even "DEI" anymore. There are many companies out there that get their products from the same "factory" and just rebranded. DEI is a very large companie with many branches.

Again, Evo CHR and Chall are the exact same, yet another example many hands in the cookie jar.

speedy srt4
12-20-2010, 05:34 PM
the 08 jeep 09 caliber and the 2010 caravans that ive done this on was all plug and play.
all i did was unplug and connect the t harness to the switch, run my ant. cable and program it up haven't tried on a standard yet since my csrt already has a remote in it

HIGHBRED8
12-20-2010, 09:49 PM
So for this to work you need the Ono module + a harness + a remote start system ? And then you'll be able to start the car and turn the factory alarm on and off with the remote from the remote start system?

Even there is a couple wires to hook up it sounds good to me. How much does something like this cost total? Might be a nice Christmas present from my wife to me lol.

HIGHBRED8
12-22-2010, 02:28 PM
So does anyone know how much something like this would cost including the remote start module? If its not too much I'd get one and try it out .as long as I can return it in thee event it doesn't work. I'm hoping sub 250 $. If its more I might as well get a nice full on alarm that had remote start built into it

08sunburst
12-22-2010, 02:54 PM
So does anyone know how much something like this would cost including the remote start module? If its not too much I'd get one and try it out .as long as I can return it in thee event it doesn't work. I'm hoping sub 250 $. If its more I might as well get a nice full on alarm that had remote start built into it

figure the "plug and play" bypass is going to cost anywhere from 75-150, depending on where you buy it, and the remote start needs to be one that is D2D, figure about 100-500 depending on what you want.

My guess, when its all said and done, would be that you can get it to be 250 or less, all depends on where you shop and who has what the cheapest.

HIGHBRED8
12-22-2010, 07:19 PM
Ok here's another question.

I just got word that my brother in laws cousin is a dei dealer and asked if he wanted a viper system for cheap. So I asked to see how much a viper 5901 would cost. Is that alarm with remote start compatible?

HIGHBRED8
12-22-2010, 10:00 PM
never mind i figured it out.

to do an alarm like the viper 5901 (alarm, remote start, 2 way communication etc) you need to use the xpresskit chall and the mux style harness (pn-CHTH2). this is pnp aside from power for the alarm. other than that every where ive read says that with those two parts the module will communicate to the can everything and theres no need to splice into anything. if the price is good on the alarm then we will find out. ive found the chall in most places for $60-$70 and the mux harness for about $25, or $90-$105 for both + the alarm.

just to try and add some info to this thread.

UN4GTBL
12-23-2010, 05:14 AM
never mind i figured it out.

to do an alarm like the viper 5901 (alarm, remote start, 2 way communication etc) you need to use the xpresskit chall and the mux style harness (pn-CHTH2). this is pnp aside from power for the alarm. other than that every where ive read says that with those two parts the module will communicate to the can everything and theres no need to splice into anything. if the price is good on the alarm then we will find out. ive found the chall in most places for $60-$70 and the mux harness for about $25, or $90-$105 for both + the alarm.

just to try and add some info to this thread.
i keep going back and forth on a remote start/alarm combo...still haven't decided. if i could install it myself that would be a big plus though

08sunburst
12-23-2010, 02:33 PM
on my previous car i had the viper 5900, two way remote start, keyless, and alarm. I also installed actuators in the doors so that i had power door locks.

On top of that, i added a few cool little features. When the car was remote started, the radio would not operate, just in case i remote started the car after leaving someone's house and i forgot to turn the subs down, etc etc.

Also, i tapped into the heater controls, so that if i forgot to turn the heat on on full blast, i could do that as well.

I had 3 160db mini-piezoelectric sirens in the car as well, that way if you were sitting in the car trying to steal something, your ears would bleed


This video is lock/unlock, then the first aux with the heater control via remote, and the last part you hear clicking is me pressing the radio power button, then i stick the key in, press the brake, and the radio turns on.(excuse the crap radio, it was temporary as the good one was stolen)



http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/matthewstetz/Focus/th_MOV01430.jpg (http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/matthewstetz/Focus/?action=view&current=MOV01430.mp4)


the video does it no justice, but you can hear the interior sirens when the alarm is set off. It was completely unbearable to sit in the car with that going on.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/matthewstetz/Focus/th_MOV01435.jpg (http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/matthewstetz/Focus/?action=view&current=MOV01435.mp4)


When i do a remote start in the caliber, its going to be the same setup(except a newer unit)

Ill be adding actuators, as well as heater control if the can bus will let me do it, and definitely the radio kill, as well as the interior sirens

HIGHBRED8
12-23-2010, 03:07 PM
Well I just heard I can get a brand new 5901 for $180. So I'm gonna go ahead and go for it. I'll take pics of the install with the chall module and mux harness. We will see how pnp it really is. In my brother in laws r32 it was 3 wires for the can + power. So how hard can it be

impulseballer
12-23-2010, 05:30 PM
I got the Viper HD Responder that I was going to have sick shop by me install. Only reason I don't do it myself is that it's covered for life by this shop. So to cut down on time I can just get the bypass and that t-harness and all they would have to do is mount everything and then run power for the alarm?

UN4GTBL
12-23-2010, 07:54 PM
on my previous car i had the viper 5900, two way remote start, keyless, and alarm. I also installed actuators in the doors so that i had power door locks.

On top of that, i added a few cool little features. When the car was remote started, the radio would not operate, just in case i remote started the car after leaving someone's house and i forgot to turn the subs down, etc etc.

Also, i tapped into the heater controls, so that if i forgot to turn the heat on on full blast, i could do that as well.

I had 3 160db mini-piezoelectric sirens in the car as well, that way if you were sitting in the car trying to steal something, your ears would bleed


This video is lock/unlock, then the first aux with the heater control via remote, and the last part you hear clicking is me pressing the radio power button, then i stick the key in, press the brake, and the radio turns on.(excuse the crap radio, it was temporary as the good one was stolen)



http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/matthewstetz/Focus/th_MOV01430.jpg (http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/matthewstetz/Focus/?action=view&current=MOV01430.mp4)


the video does it no justice, but you can hear the interior sirens when the alarm is set off. It was completely unbearable to sit in the car with that going on.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/matthewstetz/Focus/th_MOV01435.jpg (http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/matthewstetz/Focus/?action=view&current=MOV01435.mp4)


When i do a remote start in the caliber, its going to be the same setup(except a newer unit)

Ill be adding actuators, as well as heater control if the can bus will let me do it, and definitely the radio kill, as well as the interior sirens
i question the heater, as its a cable driven control...

08sunburst
12-24-2010, 01:03 AM
i question the heater, as its a cable driven control...

it was for the speed the heater blows at, not the actual selector for the heater control.

Chances are in the winter, im not going to have it set to blow cold air :rofl:

HIGHBRED8
12-24-2010, 01:33 AM
I got the Viper HD Responder that I was going to have sick shop by me install. Only reason I don't do it myself is that it's covered for life by this shop. So to cut down on time I can just get the bypass and that t-harness and all they would have to do is mount everything and then run power for the alarm?

That's the idea. If you go to xpresskit.com and enter in you car info they come up with two modules, one you have to tap I to can bus wires with and the other is the chall pnp module. They also say you'll need the mux style harness with the pn I posted earlier. I won't get my alarm till end of this month start of next but I will document the install to answer weather or not it works as advertised on a stock car and how pnp it infact is.

UN4GTBL
12-24-2010, 05:04 AM
it was for the speed the heater blows at, not the actual selector for the heater control.

Chances are in the winter, im not going to have it set to blow cold air :rofl:
oh yeah, that at least seems to be computer controlled

UN4GTBL
12-24-2010, 05:05 AM
That's the idea. If you go to xpresskit.com and enter in you car info they come up with two modules, one you have to tap I to can bus wires with and the other is the chall pnp module. They also say you'll need the mux style harness with the pn I posted earlier. I won't get my alarm till end of this month start of next but I will document the install to answer weather or not it works as advertised on a stock car and how pnp it infact is.
after all the HID issues you had, if it will work as pnp on your car it will work as pnp on anybody's caliber :rofl:

HIGHBRED8
12-26-2010, 01:46 AM
**** you dude, i hadnt had one issue in almost a year now. but as soon as you mention it the god damn things stopped working. now i gotta take that crap apart again : pissed the **** off: <<<<needs to be an emoticon.

sorry, ill stop not to crap this thread. but GOD DAMN IT. i hate those fogs,

UN4GTBL
12-27-2010, 07:29 AM
**** you dude, i hadnt had one issue in almost a year now. but as soon as you mention it the god damn things stopped working. now i gotta take that crap apart again : pissed the **** off: <<<<needs to be an emoticon.

sorry, ill stop not to crap this thread. but GOD DAMN IT. i hate those fogs,
no! seriously?

I'm really sorry!!!!! :mecry:

HIGHBRED8
12-27-2010, 10:45 PM
no! seriously?

I'm really sorry!!!!! :mecry:

lol, totally man. i dont know what it is with my car and hid fogs. i swear its trying to talk me into a fog delete kit.

anyway, viper 5901 is on the way, chall all in one module is on the way and mux style harness is on the way. everything should be here by january 3rd-5th.

i guess we will see then how pnp this thing really is. im actually pretty optimistic. the same alarm we installed in an r32 required we cut into exactly 3 wires by the ignition (plus run power to the alarm). once tat was done everything worked. windows went up and down, auto start, doors lock unlock etc etc. basically everything the car could control the alarm could now control also. so theres really no reason this shouldnt work.

but then again, my god damn fog lights should work too.

UN4GTBL
12-29-2010, 06:17 AM
lol, totally man. i dont know what it is with my car and hid fogs. i swear its trying to talk me into a fog delete kit.

anyway, viper 5901 is on the way, chall all in one module is on the way and mux style harness is on the way. everything should be here by january 3rd-5th.

i guess we will see then how pnp this thing really is. im actually pretty optimistic. the same alarm we installed in an r32 required we cut into exactly 3 wires by the ignition (plus run power to the alarm). once tat was done everything worked. windows went up and down, auto start, doors lock unlock etc etc. basically everything the car could control the alarm could now control also. so theres really no reason this shouldnt work.

but then again, my god damn fog lights should work too.
keep us posted!

I'm pulling for you to have a nice simple PNP install...you are owed one with all of the fuss your fogs have been...

impulseballer
12-31-2010, 05:51 PM
Viper Responder HD 5902 going in on Tuesday. Spoke to the tech and they i-datalink because they have less issues with them. He said it's basically plug and play beside power of course. Only reason I'm not installing it is my install shop warranties the hardware etc. for life of the vehicle.

HIGHBRED8
01-02-2011, 12:23 AM
cool. ill keep an eye on your install. for reference to others, the viper 5901 and 5902 are the same alarm. the difference is 5902 has a full color remote, i went with 5901 because the remote is considerably smaller than the full color one. other than that it should be the same exact thing.

i got the 5901 last night and tacking says the chall and harness should be here between jan 3-7. ill be installing myself so ill take pics and document everything so you can all see how easy or difficult this is.

on another note, got my fogs working again. i guess some dirt got into the relay harnesses fuse holder because i took the fuse out and tested for current. it all had current so i put the fuse back in and they worked fine.

ill start a new thread with pics and stuff when i post the install.

UN4GTBL
01-02-2011, 09:25 PM
can't wait bud :bigthumb:

impulseballer
01-05-2011, 01:16 AM
well my install shop put the 5902 in today and I absolutely love it. I didn't have time and the place had a ridiculous number of cars to do so i didn't get to talk to the tech. But from what he told me from before when i booked the appointment. It was all plug and play except the power. They used idata link because there was less problems with it verses xpresskit

HIGHBRED8
01-05-2011, 02:23 AM
nice to hear. i was reading through my manual last night (since my harness has not yet shipped since dec 26 and it said and still says its in stock ) and im looking forward to testing out the turbo timer feature. ill most likely get the add on modules for the windows and moon roof eventually too.

glad to hear it was a pretty simple install.

impulseballer
01-05-2011, 11:47 PM
now i can also get rid of the fat key and get a small thinner chipped key

HIGHBRED8
01-06-2011, 02:21 PM
yeah, i cant wait to get rid of that big as key.

i got all the parts today and will install tonight. ill start my new post now with pics of all the needed parts and after im done ill post how it went with pics and move it to the how to section for everyone.

08sunburst
01-06-2011, 02:35 PM
if anyone wants to trade their big ass key for my little key, you're more than welcome

though, that would also mean trading cars :devil:

UN4GTBL
01-06-2011, 03:48 PM
yeah, i cant wait to get rid of that big as key.

i got all the parts today and will install tonight. ill start my new post now with pics of all the needed parts and after im done ill post how it went with pics and move it to the how to section for everyone.
can't wait!!

i have no problem with the key personally...i find it easy to grab. The only issue i have is our van has the exact same keys, so they are difficult to tell apart :rofl:

the non-remote key isn't that much smaller btw

HIGHBRED8
01-06-2011, 05:30 PM
can't wait!!

i have no problem with the key personally...i find it easy to grab. The only issue i have is our van has the exact same keys, so they are difficult to tell apart :rofl:

the non-remote key isn't that much smaller btw

i have a work around for that :sneaky:

just gotta test it out on this car but it worked perfectly on the r32

UN4GTBL
01-06-2011, 06:14 PM
i have a work around for that :sneaky:

just gotta test it out on this car but it worked perfectly on the r32
you going to do a switch blade key?

HIGHBRED8
01-06-2011, 08:57 PM
you going to do a switch blade key?

no, in the other car we actually took the pill out of the key and glue it to the tumbler. i know it kinda defeats the purpose of a chipped key, but its an option.

ideally id like a key like the nsrt had. just a regular key with a rubber back to hold the chip. ill figure something out.

08sunburst
01-06-2011, 08:59 PM
no, in the other car we actually took the pill out of the key and glue it to the tumbler. i know it kinda defeats the purpose of a chipped key, but its an option.

ideally id like a key like the nsrt had. just a regular key with a rubber back to hold the chip. ill figure something out.

thats what i did with my focus, never had any problems

HIGHBRED8
01-06-2011, 09:04 PM
yeah it works perfectly. but like i said it kinda defeats the purpose of the chipped key lol. id preffer a regular chipped key but ill work with what i got.

UN4GTBL
01-06-2011, 09:08 PM
no, in the other car we actually took the pill out of the key and glue it to the tumbler. i know it kinda defeats the purpose of a chipped key, but its an option.

ideally id like a key like the nsrt had. just a regular key with a rubber back to hold the chip. ill figure something out.
the NSRT4 had a key like the one on the left here? the one on the right is the same size as the caliber key, but its different. I think its for the LX cars

http://www.google.ca/url?source=imgres&ct=img&q=http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3619/3576349000_62f5eba3fd.jpg%3Fv%3D0&sa=X&ei=vZ8mTbrFCI7ZnAfzlJn1DQ&ved=0CAQQ8wc&usg=AFQjCNE-8HpB3cPI86iUBmdFg_c8Zl6HLw

The Charger cop keys are like this apparently:

http://www.caranddriver.com/var/ezwebin_site/storage/images/news/car_news/the_dirt_road_car_news__5/dodge_charger_police_car/dodge_charger_police_car_dodge_charger_and_magnum_ police_cars_key_and_key_fob_image_001/831162-1-eng-US/dodge_charger_police_car_dodge_charger_and_magnum_ police_cars_key_and_key_fob_image_0011_cd_gallery. jpg

HIGHBRED8
01-06-2011, 09:09 PM
yeah, exactly like that. grey and all.

UN4GTBL
01-06-2011, 09:11 PM
yeah, exactly like that. grey and all.
they are super cheap too. less than $20 IIRC

do you have to hack a key to get the remote start to work?

HIGHBRED8
01-06-2011, 09:17 PM
they are super cheap too. less than $20 IIRC

do you have to hack a key to get the remote start to work?

It says the chall learns the key, so I shouldnt have too. But we had too in the r32. We did use a different interface with that car though, so I guess tomorrow we will find out.

I don't have too then I'll get home depot to cut me a couple cheapos

UN4GTBL
01-06-2011, 09:21 PM
It says the chall learns the key, so I shouldnt have too. But we had too in the r32. We did use a different interface with that car though, so I guess tomorrow we will find out.

I don't have too then I'll get home depot to cut me a couple cheapos
ok, thats what i thought.

i'm really hoping it goes well :bigthumb:

08sunburst
01-06-2011, 09:49 PM
yea, grey keys have chips, black do not

i actually have a key for the 02 durango that we had on out lot for a while, and its a black, non chipped key

UN4GTBL
01-07-2011, 05:19 AM
yea, grey keys have chips, black do not

i actually have a key for the 02 durango that we had on out lot for a while, and its a black, non chipped key
thief!

lol.

Yeah, good point.

I have keys to a couple of our previous vehicles still

impulseballer
01-07-2011, 09:15 PM
programming the new key is easy if you have your stock two keys. google it. took me all of a minute

UN4GTBL
01-07-2011, 09:53 PM
X2 - ordered a cheap transponder key off eBay a few years ago and it took me a minute to program it with the 2 stock keys that we already had. Most sellers give the instructions or google.

Jjedlicka
03-07-2011, 07:43 PM
I know no one has posted on this topic in quite awhile but I am hoping someone has figured this out.

I have an '08 R/T AWD I bought the EVO-CHR T2 and the Python Responder One Auto http://www.pythoncarsecurity.com/products/product.aspx?ProductID=622.
I have connected the Fortin to my Caliber and that works fine. But when I connect it to the Python auto start the auto start doesn't work.
I connected the 2-way data link between the two, the yellow ignition wire between the two, and the red power wire right to the battery. When I push the remote start button I can hear the relay inside the auto start tripping, so it is receiving power and is trying to start the car but nothing happens.

Has anyone successfully got the Fortin to work with a 2-way remote start? I cannot seem to get the auto start to work.

jadenstate
03-08-2011, 10:54 AM
Did you get the Fortin programmed to the car?

Jjedlicka
03-08-2011, 11:35 AM
Yes, I figured it out. The Fortin isn't compatible with 2-way, I had to wire it all 1-way and it works just fine now. Still simpler that installing an auto start without the bypass, just would wish my 2-way auto start would still be a 2-way auto start.

tommyj
03-16-2011, 07:36 PM
did you get the auto start to work on a auto or manual?