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Change rear brakes on a 2007 Caliber

43K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  Thomas O 
#1 ·
How do I go about changing the brakes on my 2007 2.0 liter Caliber. I know how to change the front brakes and rotors. Mechanic says my rear brakes need doing. What I need is a step-by-step procedure preferably with pictures.
 
#2 ·
If they're drum brakes (most likely) good luck! I've never been able to get those damned things apart. When I had to replace the wheel cylinders in my Neon the only way I could get them out was to basically push out on the shoes until I had enough clearance to pull them. Odd that they need to be done, though. My '03 Neon still had the factory shoes on the rears when I traded it in back in Dec. because they just hadn't worn enough even after 104,000 miles.
 
#4 ·
ill see if i can get the pages from the service manual and post them here :bigthumb:
 
#7 ·
By your self the spring tool and the drum brake pliers if you plan on doing your rear drums yourself. It will save you so much more hassle than its worth. Drum brakes are not all that hard to do. Take both tires off and both drums off. Only do one side at a time. That way if you get stuck and cant remember how it goes back together, u can just look on the other side that you havent taken apart yet.

I work for Dodge as a licensed mechanic, when it comes to brakes mileage dont mean anything. Its all in how you drive the car. Some people like to slam on there brakes alot. some people ride the brakes alot.. some people like to e-brake around corners in the winter time.....:jester: Hope this helps. The spring tool and pliers for rear drums isnt expensive. You can find your self a decent set at an automotive store for like maybe 30-40 bucks id say.
 
#8 ·
By your self the spring tool and the drum brake pliers if you plan on doing your rear drums yourself. It will save you so much more hassle than its worth. Drum brakes are not all that hard to do. Take both tires off and both drums off. Only do one side at a time. That way if you get stuck and cant remember how it goes back together, u can just look on the other side that you havent taken apart yet.

I work for Dodge as a licensed mechanic, when it comes to brakes mileage dont mean anything. Its all in how you drive the car. Some people like to slam on there brakes alot. some people ride the brakes alot.. some people like to e-brake around corners in the winter time.....:jester: Hope this helps. The spring tool and pliers for rear drums isnt expensive. You can find your self a decent set at an automotive store for like maybe 30-40 bucks id say.
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ah how i miss having the crappy firestones on my car, when i just didn't give a crap about them
 
#10 ·
Heh, ive done burnouts on the firestones, and this winter they are going to be my winter tire if i cant get a set of snows on my stock rims.
 
#13 ·
Use a flathead, loosen the self adjuster for the brake shoes, and then pull the drum off. Might take a few hits with a hammer to get it loose as well.
 
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#15 ·
If it is drum only, there is probably a rubber crommit on the back of the assembly.
If it a disk/drum combo like some R/T and the SRTs, it'll be on the outside surface that touches the rim.
I have a thread on here for removing the rear rotors/drums with the Disk brakes. Some of the photos should help give you an idea as to what you are looking at. Keep in mind, if you are drum and not disk/drum combo, it may differ a bit.
http://www.caliberforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19619
 
#16 ·
I haven't looked on mine, but there should be an access hole on the rear hub assembly. I'm bit sure which way you will need to turn the self adjuster though.
 
#18 ·
Takes about 3 hours, not a big job

Did this last night starting at 6pm and was done by 9pm. I had never done drums before (every other car I've ever owned had 4 wheel disk brakes) New shoes and Drums were purchased. Used PBR Blaster around axel and hit with hammer and pried with screwdriver to get drums off (wasn't hard). Take pictures with your phone or tablet of both sides with drum removed and label pictures (passenger and driver side) so you can match it all back up. Sprayed brakes with "brake cleaner" before taking apart to work in cleaner environment.

Not a difficult job at all, remove the first spring on the adjuster and it goes smoothly from there.

You do need the spring tool ($10 at harbor freight) that looks like a screwdriver with a cupped opening for the compression springs on each side and I would highly recommend a pair of locking needle nose pliers (craftsman $10).

Definitely wouldn't pay anyone to do this job, it's as easy as doing rotors and pads on the front.
 
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