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Center Bezel and Shifter Bezel Painting

6K views 40 replies 9 participants last post by  UN4GTBL 
#1 ·
Has anyone painted their Center Bezel and Shifter Bezel? I would love to have mine black (not flat but not too shiney), I think it would look very good.

Has anyone done this? I assume you can't just spray paint it because the paint might not stick.
 
#3 ·
UN4GTBL said:
see my sig for the link, and ask me any questions that you might have.
I guess my biggest question to this point is how can I get paint to match my exterior? I did read that you can get the color code off the inside door panel but how can I get that in a spray can?

Also, I assume I can just prime it and paint it? Since it is the factory bezel, they are already smooth so do I need to sand it down first? What grit sand paper?
 
#4 · (Edited)
ghoticov said:
I guess my biggest question to this point is how can I get paint to match my exterior? I did read that you can get the color code off the inside door panel but how can I get that in a spray can?

Also, I assume I can just prime it and paint it? Since it is the factory bezel, they are already smooth so do I need to sand it down first? What grit sand paper?
I just got a "chrysler silver" from canadian tire, i assume that it doesnt match 100%, but its not like i take the dash out and hold it next to the outside of the car.

Try to find a chrysler white (i asume that your car is white by your picture) either at your dealer (if they sell them anymore) or at a auto parts place. There is always the option of getting it mixed to match, but that will be super expensive.

You should probably at least do a quicky sanding of the pieces before you prime them, personally i ended up sanding all the paint off of them, it comes off rather easily (too much for my liking, andother reason why I did my project) and then primed, i dont remember the grit but you probably wouildnt need a very aggresive grit sand paper. Prime, then do another sand, quickely so that the paint will adhere better, and then do the paint and clear if you want. the best bet for a smooth finish is wetsanding tho
 
#5 ·
UN4GTBL said:
I just got a "chrysler silver" from canadian tire, i assume that it doesnt match 100%, but its not like i take the dash out and hold it next to the outside of the car.

Try to find a chrysler white (i asume that your car is white by your picture) either at your dealer (if they sell them anymore) or at a auto parts place. There is always the option of gettin git mixed to match, but that super expensive.

You should probably at least do a quicky sanding of the pieces before you prime them, personally i ended up sanding all the paint off of them, it comes off rather easily (too much for my liking, andother reason why I did my project) and then primed, i dont remember the grit but you probably wouildnt need a very aggresive grit sand paper. Prime, then do another sand, quickely so that the paint will adhere better, and then do the paint and clear if you want.
Actually, the car in the pic is my old 2007 White Caliber. I bought a new 2008 Black Caliber a few days ago. I would LOVE to paint the center bezel and shifter bezel to match my exterior (its a black metallic...the new black). It is very nice looking. :)

I am a little worried about taking on this project because I am not the best handy man. Give me a computer and I am good but when it comes to working with my hands, YIKES!!!

So what grit would work to sand before and after priming? I am going to contact the dealer to see if I can get a paint to match somehow. Maybe a Dupont Store has it or something?
 
#6 · (Edited)
ghoticov said:
Actually, the car in the pic is my old 2007 White Caliber. I bought a new 2008 Black Caliber a few days ago. I would LOVE to paint the center bezel and shifter bezel to match my exterior (its a black metallic...the new black). It is very nice looking. :)

I am a little worried about taking on this project because I am not the best handy man. Give me a computer and I am good but when it comes to working with my hands, YIKES!!!

So what grit would work to sand before and after priming? I am going to contact the dealer to see if I can get a paint to match somehow. Maybe a Dupont Store has it or something?
right, i forgot :eek:

that black would probably be hard to match, as i have heard that it is an amazing black...

i'll see if i have any of the sand paper here, but its out in the (unattached to my house) garage, and with the snow and supporting storm, that wont be til tomorrow probably. Your best bet would be to practice on something else FIRST, and then touch your new dash. THe black would make for a very dark interior! But probably look sick

EDIT: wetsanding would give you the smoothest surface, and i would be willing ot bet that a generic Dodge black would NOT match the black on your new caliber
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
UN4GTBL said:
right, i forgot :eek:

that black would probably be hard to match, as i have heard that it is an amazing black...

i'll see if i have any of the sand paper here, but its out in the (unattached to my house) garage, and with the snow and supporting storm, that wont be til tomorrow probably. Your best bet would be to practice on something else FIRST, and then touch your new dash. THe black would make for a very dark interior! But probably look sick

EDIT: wetsanding would give you the smoothest surface, and i would be willing ot bet that a generic Dodge black would NOT match the black on your new caliber
I am a little worried about what it would look like in black, because I have never seen one (which is kind of the reason I want it..LOL). I have an Alpine NAV unit with a custom splash screen so I think it would look great....the rest of my interior is the tan (with after market custom leather seats that match the top part of the dash (its a little darker than the bottom) and the carpet is the darker tan also. Here is my alpine unit:



and another...



But the new interior looks basically like this (except for the controls being black). Have you ever seen a black center and shifter bezel?
 
#9 ·
ghoticov said:
Actually, the car in the pic is my old 2007 White Caliber. I bought a new 2008 Black Caliber a few days ago. I would LOVE to paint the center bezel and shifter bezel to match my exterior (its a black metallic...the new black). It is very nice looking. :)

I am a little worried about taking on this project because I am not the best handy man. Give me a computer and I am good but when it comes to working with my hands, YIKES!!!

So what grit would work to sand before and after priming? I am going to contact the dealer to see if I can get a paint to match somehow. Maybe a Dupont Store has it or something?
I would use at least 400 grit wet sandpaper and sand with even and light strokes. Hope you spray painted before, if not spray with light coats and allow for drying between each coat. At the final stages you could go with a 600 grit wet paper. Check out this site or the dealer for factory touch up paints if Duplicolor doesn't have it yet.
http://www.autotrucktoys.com/300/Mopar-OEM-Chrysler-300-Touch-Up-Spray-Paint-P10467C3351.aspx
Also I use the Dupont Acrylic Trim and Jamb clear A-7480S for all my clearcoats. I have never found any clearcoat that works better than this in a can. You can usually find this at bodyshop supply distributors.
 
#11 ·
UN4GTBL said:
I had photoshopped this for someone a while ago, its a bad job, but you get the point...

ah, good idea! I am such a dumb ass, I didn't even think to just photoshop one of my pics to see what it would look like. LOL Your pic is with grey interior, mine is tan but I still think it would look cool. I will post it once I do the photoshop job. :)
 
#12 ·
HICal said:
I would use at least 400 grit wet sandpaper and sand with even and light strokes. Hope you spray painted before, if not spray with light coats and allow for drying between each coat. At the final stages you could go with a 600 grit wet paper. Check out this site or the dealer for factory touch up paints if Duplicolor doesn't have it yet.
http://www.autotrucktoys.com/300/Mopar-OEM-Chrysler-300-Touch-Up-Spray-Paint-P10467C3351.aspx
Also I use the Dupont Acrylic Trim and Jamb clear A-7480S for all my clearcoats. I have never found any clearcoat that works better than this in a can. You can usually find this at bodyshop supply distributors.
Thanks! That is exactly what I needed to know.

Yes, I have rattle canned before (although not alot). I figure hell, if I screw it up, I can just order another bezel. HA!

Here is a thought, I have a buddy who owns a company that does powder coating. He has it is all kinds black (shiney, flat, etc). So while it might not match my exterior perfectly, it would still be black and would probably hold up GREAT. Don't you think?
 
#14 · (Edited)
ghoticov said:
Thanks! That is exactly what I needed to know.

Yes, I have rattle canned before (although not alot). I figure hell, if I screw it up, I can just order another bezel. HA!

Here is a thought, I have a buddy who owns a company that does powder coating. He has it is all kinds black (shiney, flat, etc). So while it might not match my exterior perfectly, it would still be black and would probably hold up GREAT. Don't you think?
If you have access to powdercoat I would do that. It's much more durable and he should be able to do a color match. If he can't match the color at least he can shoot the primer with the powder and you can finish it with the factory touchup spray.
So the interior now is all tan? I would do the same and paint the bezel black, need to highlight and offset all that tan. Maybe while you're at it paint the door speaker covers and overhead map light housing black. I think black floor mats as well.
 
#15 ·
HICal said:
If you have access to powdercoat I would do that. It's much more durable and he should be able to do a color match. If he can't match the color at least he can shoot the primer with the powder and you can finish it with the factory touchup spray.
So the interior now is all tan? I would do the same and paint the bezel black, need to highlight and offset all that tan. Maybe while you're at it paint the door speaker covers and overhead map light housing black. I think black floor mats as well.
Good call. Yea, there is nothing else silver in my car. It is all black, tan and chrome. So bringing the black from the outside into the interior would be a very nice touch (and I have never seen anyone else with a black bezel. :) ).

Even if he can't match the exterior perfect, I still think it would look good just a semi gloss black. I know for a fact he can do that. I didn't realize that powder coating would hold up better so that is the route I will go. Once I do it, I will be sure to post pics but it could be a few weeks (because of him having time to do mine).
 
#16 ·
ghoticov said:
Here is my crappy job at photoshop. I think the black center bezel will look nice. I am still wondering about powercoating it though.

I don't think powder coating will work out. It requires baking the parts at at least 250 degrees. I don't think the plastic parts will fit very well after being cooked at that temp...
 
#17 ·
MykTurk said:
I don't think powder coating will work out. It requires baking the parts at at least 250 degrees. I don't think the plastic parts will fit very well after being cooked at that temp...
ah, you are probably correct.

hmmmm...back to the drawing board.

I guess I will just have to prime and paint it myself and just do light coats so I don't get runs. This will be fun. :(
 
#20 ·
Sorry Impulseballer, I am not a fan on the carbon fiber look. :( I don't know that it would fit anyway because my NAV unit isnt much bigger than the space for the stock radio. They only had to shave about 1/8" off the bottom to get it to work (and that was only because of how it drops down to load CD's and the Blackbird NAV unit.
 
#21 ·
ghoticov said:
Sorry Impulseballer, I am not a fan on the carbon fiber look. :( I don't know that it would fit anyway because my NAV unit isnt much bigger than the space for the stock radio. They only had to shave about 1/8" off the bottom to get it to work (and that was only because of how it drops down to load CD's and the Blackbird NAV unit.
i did the same install u have I bet for my girls jeep compass. I installed the alpine IVA-W205 w/ blackbird. But here's the thing, you have those ugly half circles next to ur navi unit. This bezel is ment to fit the Dodge Unit Navigation unit but with a install kit, aftermarket double din's like what you have fits perfect. That's what I did for my gf's compass.
 
#22 ·
impulseballer said:
i did the same install u have I bet for my girls jeep compass. I installed the alpine IVA-W205 w/ blackbird. But here's the thing, you have those ugly half circles next to ur navi unit. This bezel is ment to fit the Dodge Unit Navigation unit but with a install kit, aftermarket double din's like what you have fits perfect. That's what I did for my gf's compass.
I guess I don't mind the ugly half circles. LOL
 
#24 ·
I bought some Valstar Plastic Paint today at Lowe's. The Lowe's dude said it is as good as Krylon Plastic Paint and it doesn't need to be primed. He also said there is clear coat built into the paint. He said to just do light coats and sand in between (except for the last coat...obviously).

I also bought some 320 grit sandpaper, they didn't have any higher than that. It is "fine" and it says it is for "finishing", it's also made by 3M.

I don't know much about all this, what do you guys think?
 
#25 · (Edited)
I think you are going to be very unhappy with the results. :mad:
320 "Fine" is good for around the house, sand and brush paint with latex finish... NOT an automotive finish. It's a good starting point if there's damage being repaired...
If you kept your receipt, take it all back.
If your center bezel is in good shape, (I'm guessing it is.) you won't REALLY need to sand it at all, just wipe it down real good with a good cleaner, Prepsol, or other degreaser, even household rubbing alcohol will do in a pinch.
You don't want to hit the surface with any sandpaper courser than 600 grit if you don't have to. 1000 grit will scratch the surface more than enough for paint to stick. A fine Scotchbright pad will work too. (< maybe best!) Your best finish will come from NOT sanding at all. Just getting it real good and clean, and dry. Also get a "tack cloth" to do your last, dust free wipe before painting.
You need to go to an Auto Parts store, Auto Zone, O'Reilly or Advance will do, but you need an auto parts store. They'll have the paint, masking tape and the abrasive matterials you'll want/need. You'll have a much better color selection too.
Don't worry about the parts you are painting being plastic, they're already painted, you're just repainting them. Should be fine with a recoat.
Do it right the first time. Take your time.
DON'T USE WHAT YOU HAVE!!!:eek:

Here's your shopping list:
Scothbright pad (Fine) or 1000 wet or dry sandpaper.
Prepsol or other pre paint degreaser
Tack Cloth/rag
Primer (Optional)
Color of paint desired
Good masking tape.
:D
 
#26 ·
MykTurk said:
I think you are going to be very unhappy with the results. :mad:
320 "Fine" is good for around the house, sand and brush paint with latex finish... NOT an automotive finish. It's a good starting point if there's damage being repaired...
If you kept your receipt, take it all back.
If your center bezel is in good shape, (I'm guessing it is.) you won't REALLY need to sand it at all, just wipe it down real good with a good cleaner, Prepsol, or other degreaser, even household rubbing alcohol will do in a pinch.
You don't want to hit the surface with any sandpaper courser than 600 grit if you don't have to. 1000 grit will scratch the surface more than enough for paint to stick. A fine Scotchbright pad will work too. (< maybe best!) Your best finish will come from NOT sanding at all. Just getting it real good and clean, and dry. Also get a "tack cloth" to do your last, dust free wipe before painting.
You need to go to an Auto Parts store, Auto Zone, O'Reilly or Advance will do, but you need an auto parts store. They'll have the paint, masking tape and the abrasive matterials you'll want/need. You'll have a much better color selection too.
Don't worry about the parts you are painting being plastic, they're already painted, you're just repainting them. Should be fine with a recoat.
Do it right the first time. Take your time.
DON'T USE WHAT YOU HAVE!!!:eek:

Here's your shopping list:
Scothbright pad (Fine) or 1000 wet or dry sandpaper.
Prepsol or other pre paint degreaser
Tack Cloth/rag
Primer (Optional)
Color of paint desired
Good masking tape.
:D
well, started painting before I read your post. LOL

The GOOD news is I did not sand it at all, I read other post that said that sanding was not needed.

The BAD news is, it looks like I did not get the surface quite clean enough because there are spots that it looks like the paint is not sticking to very well. Not sure why.

Not sure what to do at this point, I guess I could just continue to paint...doing light coats until it is done and see how it looks. If it doesn't look good, I can always sand all the paint off and start over. :mad:
 
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