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Replaced Electronic Throttle body.

70K views 22 replies 13 participants last post by  2FST4GM 
#1 ·
this technology needs a lot of improvement yet.

recently my car stops responding to throttle command and light in the dashboard lit
|~|

the good thing here is that the car went into LIMP mode and i can drive it back to home safely that day.


I suspected something wrong was on the throttle body and i proceed to disasemble it, after some tests (find out that it doesn't open and made clicking sounds) and research on dodge forums. so i went to buy it and replaced it.

here is the outcome

removed the bad TB, does not have any brand of it.. it just has BW on it. (borg-warner) maybe?


then i broke it to open as there are no screws

once open i saw what the damage is.. worn teeth on the gears used for open/close the plate





finally i discover something interesting.. it has a Hella circuit board... interesting mix of components for an "American" car



after buying it from the dealer (around 200 usd + tax) and a scanner i get from AZ to clear codes. it is running like a charm.

car is 07 model 1.8L engine, manual trans passed 100,000 km mark
 
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#2 ·
Good info,
Thanks for the breakdown and pics:bigthumb:
 
#4 ·
When you said you broke it open, did you damage it enough that it would never go back together?
(looking over at the soldering iron and scope)... Maybe I shouldn't be thinking what I am thinking.

On the up side, shave 0.001 seconds off the response time, will make the butt dyno happy. Would love to see the stealership void my warranty on this type of mod.
 
#5 ·
When you said you broke it open, did you damage it enough that it would never go back together?
(looking over at the soldering iron and scope)... Maybe I shouldn't be thinking what I am thinking.

On the up side, shave 0.001 seconds off the response time, will make the butt dyno happy. Would love to see the stealership void my warranty on this type of mod.
uh oh

I like the way you think :jester:
 
#7 ·
well not until this.. what i had noticed after replacing that part is it that engine started right away at the first time when left parked in intense sunshine. (not a problem when is cold or parked in the shade)

before i had to crank 2 times.. the dealership always toldme that it went away after tune ups. which in fact did but the issue re-appears after some weeks.

everything else on the car is fine.

the part is sealed (id say "canned") so is not going to keep moisture off if resealed, and will be noticeable by your dealer.

:beerchug:
 
#8 ·
Nice review of your issue! Thanks!

I wonder... can anyone confirm whether the 1.8 and 2.4 in-fact do not use the same TB? This would be another thing I wouldn't want to have happen at 11pm on a Sunday night in the middle of nowhere...
 
#9 ·
thats pretty intense that the gears were destroyed

I will say, i do hate how EVERYTHING on this car is controlled by a computer

Yea, drive by wire is nice, and blah blah blah, but all it takes is a problem with the computer to leave you stranded
 
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#10 ·
thats pretty intense that the gears were destroyed

I will say, i do hate how EVERYTHING on this car is controlled by a computer

Yea, drive by wire is nice, and blah blah blah, but all it takes is a problem with the computer to leave you stranded
x2 on the hating everything computerized.

I do have to ask, how can driving by wire be nice?
I miss feeling what my thottle is doing. I my wife's old done up neon, you could feel any change in the clutch and the thottle.
I also hate the fact that I am suggesting something to the computer.
 
#14 ·
It has 2 screws and it can be either removed from above , you have to remove airbox, pipes , clamps and some sensor wires. and of course the connector of the TB itself.

you can remove as well from below the car if you have ramp or a pit. i think is easier.
 
#15 ·
Mine is getting replaced right now at the dealership. My service guy got it fixed for free under the emissions warranty which is up to 50,000 miles. I just bought the car 6 days ago and I have 43,000.
 
#16 ·
I wanted you to know that this post is the reason I joined. I always get Googled to this site when looking up issues for my 2.4L Caliber R/T. But I had to join to thank you and let you know how much this helped me understand the missing link in the intermittent behavior I was dealing with.
HATS OFF TO YOU FOR BREAKING IT APART!
I plan to do the same with mine to see if I am right in that I have the same problem.
Also I have a friend with a Avenger doing the same thing!

So thank you for this post!
Caliber07RT
 
#17 ·
i just took my 2010 caliber 4 cylinder, to the dealership and they want $629.00 just to make in run :( they said my throttle body is sticking and would replace just that for $498. i do not have that kind of money and found many parts for around 200 or less. however im worried with all the technology in this stupid thing i wont be able to rest a code or something and it wont run. any details about how i get around that would be much appreciated.
 
#18 ·
Most of that will be labor. It should cost about $180 and can be changed yourself from under the car. Check out wermopar.com.
 
#19 ·
get this, the dealer put the throttle body in and now my car wont move. they told me they are waiting on Chrysler to make a decision on what to do now.Either give them software to download because the car wont except the new part or try a different throttle body. :notallthere:
 
#20 ·
at my wits end!!!

my car has been at the dealership for two weeks and they still cant figure out why it wont except new programing. the pcm has been changed and the throttle body. were do i go from here? what if they cant fix my car? Am i entitled to compensation or am i out a car and still have to pay the lone? im so angry i got a crappy car. what kind of world is this when a car wont even make it past 4 years!!!!:icon_flaming::fight:
 
#23 ·
Not sure. I had the dealer do it. Its actually not hard to reach from below. I would check the part numbers and see if they are the same.
 
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