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SXT Oil weight?

45K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  skoot1980 
#1 ·
My caliber SXT has 11,090 miles on it with a 2.0L CVT trans. I've changed the oil twice with 5w-30 valvoline (sae dino) and I'm up for another change at 11,120miles.
I want to run Mobil 1 15w-50 but had concerns about what kinda oil pump the caliber has? Low pressure - High flow, High Pressure - Low Flow etc.
I already know most of you are going to say 50w is too thick etc, but I use this oil in everything i own and have never had any leaks, oil burning or any engine fail in doing so.
Opinions?
 
#2 ·
I'm sticking to the 5W-20 that's recommended. Best option I can suggest is the synthetics like the Mobil1 you mentioned. I'd stay with the 5W-20.
 
#3 ·
x2 for the 5-20


if the people that designed and manufactured the engine say it takes 5-20, ill take their word for it
 
#5 ·
Ever since the first internal combustion engine first sputtered to life over a century ago, 30 wt oil has been the ideal weight lubricant to use at normal operating temperatures... Nothing can change this fact. It's all metal sliding on metal and 30 wt is the best balance of lubrication and viscosity friction for most internal combustion engines.

Some racing applications use heavier grades to help protect engines with profoundly high mechanical pressures but these are exceptions to the rule.

Problemo is... 30 wt oil flows too slow when it's cold and any engine will be starved for oil for far too long every time it's fired up in cold weather.

Multi-grade oils solve this problem, but with a small price... The viscosity enhancers used to make multi-grade oils don't have much lubricating value themselves, so they reduce the lubricating potential of the oil a bit. 5W20 actually lubricates better than 5W30 because it contains more oil and less viscosity enhancers!

The problem with ultra light oils occurs when engines overheat... Ultralight oils get so thin when they are overheated they allow metal to metal contact, scoring bearings and permanently damaging the engine with remarkable swiftness. A heavier oil will tolerate overheating far better than a light oil will, and save your engine if you don't stop the car immediately once the temp gauge starts into the HOT zone.

The ultralight oil engines are designed for the 1 or 2 extra MPG they will get compared to a normal engine... Thinner oil means less viscosity friction and better mileage. The price we pay for this mileage is a much greater risk of blowing the engine the first time you drive it in an overheated state. The dealers and mechanics are in on the scam and your warranty will not cover an engine damaged in this way... You simply buy a new car. Good for the manufactures and the dealers, bad for you and me!

Unfortunately, the ultralight oil engines are DESIGNED for ultralight oil, and upping the viscosity much over the design specs can cause problems, not the least of which is the voiding of your warranty.

My solution to this problem is to run 5W20 synthetic the first 50K miles while the engine is new, tight, and under warranty, and the cooling system is not old enough to be having problems yet... Over 50K, I will be switching to 10W30 synthetic for the added protection it gives to older engines with cooling systems that may fail and cause an unexpected overheat which will destroy any engine running ultralight oil.

Any engine (especially a 4 banger) will loosen up quite a bit in 50K miles, and I'm banking the jump from 5W20 to 10W30 will not cause a problem. I also live in a part of the country that never sees sub-freezing temperatures, so the ultralight oil is less critical for my cold starts.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Good write up Synethesia!

I use Mobil 1 5W-20 here in San Diego during the winter, then switch to 5W-30 during the summer because it get's hot as hell here. Have had no problems at all. It might just be me, but I feel the engine runs smoother with the thicker oil, and it's a little added peace of mind while sitting in LA traffic during the heat of summer. I had an oil analysis done last year to satisfy my curiosity, I'm a helicopter technician and have seen what doing a sample on a gearbox can show. See the attached oil report. A lot can be said, but I wanted to see if the Mobil 1 was worth it (it was, extended oil changes :) and to see how the motor was wearing. (Quite well)

For the record, I have a 07 Honda 600RR motorcycle (inline 4 cyl, transmission/engine share same case & oil) and I run Repsol 10W-40 ($45 a gallon) in that, and it needs every little bit of that viscosity. Especially when I occasionally bounce it off the rev limiter at 15,500 RPM at the racetrack, lol.
 

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#7 ·
Hey TTOFS, I'm in San Diego too! Perhaps we'll "run into each other" on the freeway sometime.

It's a cryin' shame the auto manufacturers are now designing engines with reduced lifespan all for the sake of less than one MPG in fuel savings... I fear the quarter million mile plus engines Toyota made in the 80s and 90s (all 10W30 engines!) are a thing of the past.

The sad truth is, hot steel on steel needs a 30wt film to minimize wear... Always has... Always will.

My car goes off warranty in the Fall and I'll be making the jump to 10W30 in the Spring.

The shorter viscosity spread (10W30 vs 5W30) means more real oil and less gummy viscosity enhancers.
 
#8 ·
Great posts synesthesia. When I did change it, I went with 10w30 Mobil 1. I've never ran any engine with (what dodge recommends) 5w-20 and don't plan too. Picture setting in 90 degree weather in traffic, with the A/C on using 5w-20 oil. Your just asking for a bearing to grab the crank journal.
Next oil change I'll be switching to 10w-40 or 15w-50 depending on temps. (avg around 80-90f)
Btw, anyone know the oil pressure of the 2.0L engine?
 
#10 ·
Engineers were ORDERED to increase gas mileage without reducing power, at any/all costs!

Their only choice was moving to "black water" thin oils...

The cost was reduced engine life.

We'll see how many of these black water engines make it to 250K miles like the old 10W30 cars of the 80s/90s did.

I wouldn't bet on it.
 
#11 ·
ive got a lifetime powertrain warranty on my car, im not too worried about it lol
 
#12 ·
Does it cover "normal wear and tear"?

Most companies "rate" their engines for service life. In fact, on one oil blog I was reading someone said these ratings have been substantially reduced in recent years (the birth of the 5W20 engine!).

Your engine may just start burning oil and distroying the cat/converters. Dodge will say it is normal for an old engine to burn oil, and the cat is not covered.

You'll get frustrated eventually and trade the car.

5W20 engines are great for car companies... Those quarter million mile cars might have been their undoing!
 
#13 ·
Yep, pretty sure that if the engine starts burning oil, enough that its noticeable out of the exhaust, they would fix it without question.
 
#17 ·
When i traded it in, it had like 93k miles on it, and i just looked up the registration info on it, and whoever bought it from the dealer i traded it into still has it on the road.

Idk any more than that though, havent seen the car in almost two years. I would assume though, that the car has well over 100k miles on it by now though. Who knows how the next person is treating it though, probably like crap.
 
#18 ·
I looked for my old Bronco II after I traded it too... Was hoping it would find a good home. Afraid It got recycled as gas was $4/gal when I gave her up.

Hoping the Cali will go the distance... I'd rather spend my money on travel and good food.

Hey, keep yours long enough and it might become a classic/antique worth more than it cost new!
 
#19 ·
smh

this kills me!! everyone talking so highly of 30 wt oil.. and engines that were calling for this in the 90's, if you really want to do your engine a favor use a 5w40 or 5w50 synthetic, or 10w40 conv., engines now call for 5w20 for the gas mileage, there is nobody that can show any blueprint to prove engine tolerances are tighter because they are not, I have 01 Honda civic that calls for 5w20, though all its life it has had 5w40 synthetic and still runs like a top, doesn't use any oil between changes and just turned 201,000 miles, also a 2003 ford escape that calls for 5w20, same for that 5w40 syn. has 198,000 miles, no oil consumption. and have 2007 dodge caliber r/t with 2.4liter it as u guess gets 5w40 not as many miles on it but has 120,000 and has always got this oil wt.,
my dad while I was growing up with 2 other siblings for years as the more "family" car had 1989 chevy celebrity 2.5 liter 4 cyl that in summer months got 20w50 and 10w40 winter, had 260,000 miles as he had purchased only year and half old, that engine sounded great with no engine noises never burnt any oil! and further more anyone that ever has had any familiarity with those 2.5L "iron duke" gm engines know they bang and clank like crazy after lot of miles, this one still sounded new and nobody ever believed the miles until they saw the odometer themselves then would say you just put a new motor in.. and would say to them no its the original!

I will say this.. I'm 33 never used a 20 or 30 wt oil ever, and for all those that think its horrible and your gonna blow the engine or whatever bad horrible thing that's going to happen, it hasn't and it wont, I have seen proof positive it works great! the CAR MANUFACTURES don't want cars lasting a long time, that's less they sell, so yes that's why you hear horror stories of using heavier oil because those are the ones with the horror stories or its someone with a horror story that was told to them by another person that is mechanic at dealer or works for dlr or is someway connected to dlr or manufacture, just something to think about, fyi my great uncle worked for gm in michigan until retiring and moving back south, he didn't tell a lot of ppl he used heavier oil, but I never saw him with a 30 wt oil, I always saw him with 10w40
 
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