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Anyone replace a lower control arm?

48K views 32 replies 18 participants last post by  melansonc98 
#1 ·
I just got a quote from Belle tire to replace the right lower control arm on the caliber. The quote is for $292.14. Is that a good price? Or should I try and get a lower control arm and do it myself and just get the alignment from them? Any help is appreciated!!
Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Why do you need it replaced?

If that price includes the part, installation + labor costs, and an alignment, then its definitely a good price
 
#3 ·
Why do you need it replaced?

If that price includes the part, installation + labor costs, and an alignment, then its definitely a good price
There is a "Thud" coming from the wheel well and we took it to Belle Tire to get it looked at and they said the bushing is gone. But nobody sells just the bushing, so it has to be a whole new control arm. That price doesnt include an alignment.
 
#9 ·
the control arm is a little labor intensive, and if the bolts holding them on are seized then you need some acetylene and new bolts lol.

im surprised that a car with such low mileage has bad bushings already
 
#15 ·
tell me about it.. chicago sucks, and i now refuse to drive anywhere near downtown now that my car is lowered
 
#19 · (Edited)
Good price!

I just had my left LCA replaced - all this time I was looking at the front bushings due to the bolt TSB... all of the noise from my front end was due to the rear bushing on the left LCA. I'm gonna post pix of the failed unit soon. But you are getting a good price! This is still only the second "major" expense for me (the 1st one was the 4 TPMS sensors - you'll find my thread about it somewhere here) besides tires.

I thought I'd have the brakes done at the same time just to get them done and over with... They said there was still life left and that I should wait! LOL OE pads are still going strong at 133k!

Pix (finally!):



One thing you can see... when the rubber separates from the shell (still in the LCA) there is nothing tying the rear of the LCA down at the rear. This allows it to flutter up and down when the suspension articulates quickly, like on speed bumps, driveway curbs, potholes, etc. That's where & why I had noise.
 
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#23 ·
I just had my left LCA replaced - all this time I was looking at the front bushings due to the bolt TSB... all of the noise from my front end was due to the rear bushing on the left LCA. I'm gonna post pix of the failed unit soon. But you are getting a good price! This is still only the second "major" expense for me (the 1st one was the 4 TPMS sensors - you'll find my thread about it somewhere here) besides tires.

I thought I'd have the brakes done at the same time just to get them done and over with... They said there was still life left and that I should wait! LOL OE pads are still going strong at 133k!

Pix (finally!):



One thing you can see... when the rubber separates from the shell (still in the LCA) there is nothing tying the rear of the LCA down at the rear. This allows it to flutter up and down when the suspension articulates quickly, like on speed bumps, driveway curbs, potholes, etc. That's where & why I had noise.
Wow looks like my LCA that I pulled out today!
 
#20 ·
I feel the pain

I had the wheel bearings and the lower control arms replaced when my car had 32k as well....but all covered under warranty. I am now at 50k and I need new struts...though I love my car the things I have had to fix since I have had it is getting old...it's a 2008 and I only have had it for 2 1/2 yrs! Yes I travel alot but a new trans, bearings, control arms, struts, all 4 tires replaced, seat squeak, rear links....OMG please when will it stop! Now no more warranty....I think I have the runt of the littler!
 
#22 ·
Hi I just replaced my lower control arm on the passenger side today. I got the part from Macautoparts.net and it cost me around 120 including shipping. You can buy just the ball joint which is about 60$ but then uu need someone with a press to press it in. If your balljoint is seized in like mine, just get some PB Partsblaster, spray it out daily (you are waiting on that part to arrive anyways) and then wedge the clamp slot with a chisel. It took me and my friend maybe 30 minutes to replace the lcr. Make sure your tie rod is in good shape too, if you replace that like i did you need a front alignment.
 
#26 ·
Couldnt agree more. 20k miles and i have already had to replace a tie rod, all of the endlinks, and two front struts.(struts were partially my fault, and the car is lowered....)


I really wish they would come out with a poly kit for the suspension for the non srt cars. Id buy and use it in a heartbeat.
 
#27 · (Edited)
I already replaced the balljoints with MOOG greaseable ones from advance auto; I just in the adaped the PT/Neon LCA vertical bushing and a prothane kit to my wife's caliber. I had to separate the factory style bushings and grind off the rubber to use their sleeves. The outer sleeve fits right inside of the caliber arm where the bushing came out. Had to cut some off of the lower part of the lower prothane bushing and off of the sleeve to match the caliber's bushing sleeve; to fit in the subframe. I cut off the top of the sleeve to match the caliber mount more, but I'm wondering if i should have cut off the bottom to work better with the prothane's... whatever...it's done, and so far, so good!

P.S. I didn't change the front ones because they were'nt bad and more fabbing would have been needed.

here's some pic's:












 
#30 · (Edited)
I already replaced the balljoints with MOOG greaseable ones from advance auto; I just in the adaped the PT/Neon LCA vertical bushing and a prothane kit to my wife's caliber. I had to separate the factory style bushings and grind off the rubber to use their sleeves. The outer sleeve fits right inside of the caliber arm where the bushing came out. Had to cut some off of the lower part of the lower prothane bushing and off of the sleeve to match the caliber's bushing sleeve; to fit in the subframe. I cut off the top of the sleeve to match the caliber mount more, but I'm wondering if i should have cut off the bottom to work better with the prothane's... whatever...it's done, and so far, so good!

P.S. I didn't change the front ones because they were'nt bad and more fabbing would have been needed.

here's some pic's:

Hello,
Please, can you tell me the measures (diameters and lengths) of Prothane LCA front bushings (4-214).
I've destroyed my MOOG bushings because the rubber is too hard and impossible to install. I put the old one, damaged, in hope to finding Prothane. I only need the front bushings. With MOOG balljoints and rear bushings I had no problems.

MOOG K200255 (the hole for the front LCA bushing is 34.4mm)
Do not buy the MOOG K200255



Thanks
 
#29 ·
FYI...
Amazon has a new right (pax) side LCA replacement for $78.56 (made by Dorman) + $8.95 shipping. I've just placed one on order for my Cali! Only two were left (with more on order)...

I didn't find a left (driver) side LCA... but I imagine that the vendor could be contacted (Auto Parts 123) if someone were in need.
 
#31 ·
I've been trying to install new front end bushings on my control arms. Unbelievable! I can't get the bushings in the control arm. Its driving me crazy.. yesterday I spent 5hrs changing my power steering pump and alternator.. now I'm changing struts, sway bars, and bushings.. but the bushings just won't go in. 10x harder then ball joints!! Any advice? I'm trying to press them in, I'm almost to the point of hammering it in lol
 
#32 ·
Well I've completed the front suspension assembly and managed to get the bushings in. Thanks for all the great advice!! Couldn't have done it without this forum!! Pfft!! Haha..
 
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