I just got a quote from Belle tire to replace the right lower control arm on the caliber. The quote is for $292.14. Is that a good price? Or should I try and get a lower control arm and do it myself and just get the alignment from them? Any help is appreciated!!
Thanks!
There is a "Thud" coming from the wheel well and we took it to Belle Tire to get it looked at and they said the bushing is gone. But nobody sells just the bushing, so it has to be a whole new control arm. That price doesnt include an alignment.
The car has 56,000 miles. I dont know how much the alignment is, maybe 60 bucks? Thanks for everyones help!! I might just have them do it, I was going to put on a tie rod end myself, I just didnt know how much harder the control arm was than the tie rod end.
He is prob in MI like me. Mine has 32k miles and both bushings are bad also. I actually work at belle tire. Our cost on the control arms are $115. Alignments are $60 for a four wheel. The rest is labor install. That actually isnt a bad price.
anyone have a part number for the rear bolt and nut for the control arms? I see illustrations all day on the replacement parts websites but nothin that breaks down the control arm...
All newer Dodges are having this prob. Started with the Neons and PTs. Now Magnums, Chargers, 300s Calibers, we see them all day with bad tierods and bushings
I am suprised they don't sell a bushing kit.
I had to do the bushings on both my old neons, and the front suspension is starting to make noise, so it may not be long before the SRT goes in for work.
Our city streets are getting pretty bad here.
I just had my left LCA replaced - all this time I was looking at the front bushings due to the bolt TSB... all of the noise from my front end was due to the rear bushing on the left LCA. I'm gonna post pix of the failed unit soon. But you are getting a good price! This is still only the second "major" expense for me (the 1st one was the 4 TPMS sensors - you'll find my thread about it somewhere here) besides tires.
I thought I'd have the brakes done at the same time just to get them done and over with... They said there was still life left and that I should wait! LOL OE pads are still going strong at 133k!
Pix (finally!):
One thing you can see... when the rubber separates from the shell (still in the LCA) there is nothing tying the rear of the LCA down at the rear. This allows it to flutter up and down when the suspension articulates quickly, like on speed bumps, driveway curbs, potholes, etc. That's where & why I had noise.
I just had my left LCA replaced - all this time I was looking at the front bushings due to the bolt TSB... all of the noise from my front end was due to the rear bushing on the left LCA. I'm gonna post pix of the failed unit soon. But you are getting a good price! This is still only the second "major" expense for me (the 1st one was the 4 TPMS sensors - you'll find my thread about it somewhere here) besides tires.
I thought I'd have the brakes done at the same time just to get them done and over with... They said there was still life left and that I should wait! LOL OE pads are still going strong at 133k!
Pix (finally!):
One thing you can see... when the rubber separates from the shell (still in the LCA) there is nothing tying the rear of the LCA down at the rear. This allows it to flutter up and down when the suspension articulates quickly, like on speed bumps, driveway curbs, potholes, etc. That's where & why I had noise.
I had the wheel bearings and the lower control arms replaced when my car had 32k as well....but all covered under warranty. I am now at 50k and I need new struts...though I love my car the things I have had to fix since I have had it is getting old...it's a 2008 and I only have had it for 2 1/2 yrs! Yes I travel alot but a new trans, bearings, control arms, struts, all 4 tires replaced, seat squeak, rear links....OMG please when will it stop! Now no more warranty....I think I have the runt of the littler!
Naw.... suspension on this car is HIDEOUS. I need to take mine in to get the control arms, etc. looked at. My 07 SXT feels like it is going to rattle apart over each bump. Already had the tie rod ends done once...
Hi I just replaced my lower control arm on the passenger side today. I got the part from Macautoparts.net and it cost me around 120 including shipping. You can buy just the ball joint which is about 60$ but then uu need someone with a press to press it in. If your balljoint is seized in like mine, just get some PB Partsblaster, spray it out daily (you are waiting on that part to arrive anyways) and then wedge the clamp slot with a chisel. It took me and my friend maybe 30 minutes to replace the lcr. Make sure your tie rod is in good shape too, if you replace that like i did you need a front alignment.
Couldnt agree more. 20k miles and i have already had to replace a tie rod, all of the endlinks, and two front struts.(struts were partially my fault, and the car is lowered....)
I really wish they would come out with a poly kit for the suspension for the non srt cars. Id buy and use it in a heartbeat.
I already replaced the balljoints with MOOG greaseable ones from advance auto; I just in the adaped the PT/Neon LCA vertical bushing and a prothane kit to my wife's caliber. I had to separate the factory style bushings and grind off the rubber to use their sleeves. The outer sleeve fits right inside of the caliber arm where the bushing came out. Had to cut some off of the lower part of the lower prothane bushing and off of the sleeve to match the caliber's bushing sleeve; to fit in the subframe. I cut off the top of the sleeve to match the caliber mount more, but I'm wondering if i should have cut off the bottom to work better with the prothane's... whatever...it's done, and so far, so good!
P.S. I didn't change the front ones because they were'nt bad and more fabbing would have been needed.
I already replaced the balljoints with MOOG greaseable ones from advance auto; I just in the adaped the PT/Neon LCA vertical bushing and a prothane kit to my wife's caliber. I had to separate the factory style bushings and grind off the rubber to use their sleeves. The outer sleeve fits right inside of the caliber arm where the bushing came out. Had to cut some off of the lower part of the lower prothane bushing and off of the sleeve to match the caliber's bushing sleeve; to fit in the subframe. I cut off the top of the sleeve to match the caliber mount more, but I'm wondering if i should have cut off the bottom to work better with the prothane's... whatever...it's done, and so far, so good!
P.S. I didn't change the front ones because they were'nt bad and more fabbing would have been needed.
Hello,
Please, can you tell me the measures (diameters and lengths) of Prothane LCA front bushings (4-214).
I've destroyed my MOOG bushings because the rubber is too hard and impossible to install. I put the old one, damaged, in hope to finding Prothane. I only need the front bushings. With MOOG balljoints and rear bushings I had no problems.
MOOG K200255 (the hole for the front LCA bushing is 34.4mm)
Do not buy the MOOG K200255
hindsight is 20/20. if i were to do it again, i would just get the pt/neon mounts, cut them to size (heightwise), slide them in place of the factory ones, and tack them in place with the welder.
FYI...
Amazon has a new right (pax) side LCA replacement for $78.56 (made by Dorman) + $8.95 shipping. I've just placed one on order for my Cali! Only two were left (with more on order)...
I didn't find a left (driver) side LCA... but I imagine that the vendor could be contacted (Auto Parts 123) if someone were in need.
I've been trying to install new front end bushings on my control arms. Unbelievable! I can't get the bushings in the control arm. Its driving me crazy.. yesterday I spent 5hrs changing my power steering pump and alternator.. now I'm changing struts, sway bars, and bushings.. but the bushings just won't go in. 10x harder then ball joints!! Any advice? I'm trying to press them in, I'm almost to the point of hammering it in lol
Well I've completed the front suspension assembly and managed to get the bushings in. Thanks for all the great advice!! Couldn't have done it without this forum!! Pfft!! Haha..
Alignment charges are mostly $40-$50. The rest is labor extra surcharge.
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