My caliber SXT has 11,090 miles on it with a 2.0L CVT trans. I've changed the oil twice with 5w-30 valvoline (sae dino) and I'm up for another change at 11,120miles.
I want to run Mobil 1 15w-50 but had concerns about what kinda oil pump the caliber has? Low pressure - High flow, High Pressure - Low Flow etc.
I already know most of you are going to say 50w is too thick etc, but I use this oil in everything i own and have never had any leaks, oil burning or any engine fail in doing so.
if the people that designed and manufactured the engine say it takes 5-20, ill take their word for it
"I just cant help thinking, thanks to all sorts of things, the environment, the economy, problems in the middle east, the relentless war on speed, cars like this will soon be consigned to the history books. I just have this horrible, dreadful feeling, what im driving here, is an ending..." - Jeremy Clarkson
Ever since the first internal combustion engine first sputtered to life over a century ago, 30 wt oil has been the ideal weight lubricant to use at normal operating temperatures... Nothing can change this fact. It's all metal sliding on metal and 30 wt is the best balance of lubrication and viscosity friction for most internal combustion engines.
Some racing applications use heavier grades to help protect engines with profoundly high mechanical pressures but these are exceptions to the rule.
Problemo is... 30 wt oil flows too slow when it's cold and any engine will be starved for oil for far too long every time it's fired up in cold weather.
Multi-grade oils solve this problem, but with a small price... The viscosity enhancers used to make multi-grade oils don't have much lubricating value themselves, so they reduce the lubricating potential of the oil a bit. 5W20 actually lubricates better than 5W30 because it contains more oil and less viscosity enhancers!
The problem with ultra light oils occurs when engines overheat... Ultralight oils get so thin when they are overheated they allow metal to metal contact, scoring bearings and permanently damaging the engine with remarkable swiftness. A heavier oil will tolerate overheating far better than a light oil will, and save your engine if you don't stop the car immediately once the temp gauge starts into the HOT zone.
The ultralight oil engines are designed for the 1 or 2 extra MPG they will get compared to a normal engine... Thinner oil means less viscosity friction and better mileage. The price we pay for this mileage is a much greater risk of blowing the engine the first time you drive it in an overheated state. The dealers and mechanics are in on the scam and your warranty will not cover an engine damaged in this way... You simply buy a new car. Good for the manufactures and the dealers, bad for you and me!
Unfortunately, the ultralight oil engines are DESIGNED for ultralight oil, and upping the viscosity much over the design specs can cause problems, not the least of which is the voiding of your warranty.
My solution to this problem is to run 5W20 synthetic the first 50K miles while the engine is new, tight, and under warranty, and the cooling system is not old enough to be having problems yet... Over 50K, I will be switching to 10W30 synthetic for the added protection it gives to older engines with cooling systems that may fail and cause an unexpected overheat which will destroy any engine running ultralight oil.
Any engine (especially a 4 banger) will loosen up quite a bit in 50K miles, and I'm banking the jump from 5W20 to 10W30 will not cause a problem. I also live in a part of the country that never sees sub-freezing temperatures, so the ultralight oil is less critical for my cold starts.
The Following User Says Thank You to synesthesia For This Useful Post:
I use Mobil 1 5W-20 here in San Diego during the winter, then switch to 5W-30 during the summer because it get's hot as hell here. Have had no problems at all. It might just be me, but I feel the engine runs smoother with the thicker oil, and it's a little added peace of mind while sitting in LA traffic during the heat of summer. I had an oil analysis done last year to satisfy my curiosity, I'm a helicopter technician and have seen what doing a sample on a gearbox can show. See the attached oil report. A lot can be said, but I wanted to see if the Mobil 1 was worth it (it was, extended oil changes and to see how the motor was wearing. (Quite well)
For the record, I have a 07 Honda 600RR motorcycle (inline 4 cyl, transmission/engine share same case & oil) and I run Repsol 10W-40 ($45 a gallon) in that, and it needs every little bit of that viscosity. Especially when I occasionally bounce it off the rev limiter at 15,500 RPM at the racetrack, lol.
Hey TTOFS, I'm in San Diego too! Perhaps we'll "run into each other" on the freeway sometime.
It's a cryin' shame the auto manufacturers are now designing engines with reduced lifespan all for the sake of less than one MPG in fuel savings... I fear the quarter million mile plus engines Toyota made in the 80s and 90s (all 10W30 engines!) are a thing of the past.
The sad truth is, hot steel on steel needs a 30wt film to minimize wear... Always has... Always will.
My car goes off warranty in the Fall and I'll be making the jump to 10W30 in the Spring.
The shorter viscosity spread (10W30 vs 5W30) means more real oil and less gummy viscosity enhancers.
Great posts synesthesia. When I did change it, I went with 10w30 Mobil 1. I've never ran any engine with (what dodge recommends) 5w-20 and don't plan too. Picture setting in 90 degree weather in traffic, with the A/C on using 5w-20 oil. Your just asking for a bearing to grab the crank journal.
Next oil change I'll be switching to 10w-40 or 15w-50 depending on temps. (avg around 80-90f)
Btw, anyone know the oil pressure of the 2.0L engine?
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