Change Front Brake Pads - Still Squeeling - Help Please - Dodge Caliber Forums
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#1 Old 05-08-2011, 02:31 PM
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Change Front Brake Pads - Still Squeeling - Help Please

I have a 2008 Dodge Caliber SXT 2.0L. Lately it has been squeeling a little bit at low speeds, so I picked up some mid-grade pads at Advances Autoparts and installed them today. The first thing I noticed was that the old ones were still pretty decent, maybe 50% life left. I changed them anyways. After changing them I took it out for a little test drive, and the first thing I noticed is that it seems now that I have to push the pedal in very far for it to respond, not a huge deal since the brakes work, but if anyone knows what that is about, I would like to fix it. My main problem though, is when braking between 1-10 mph it still squeels, but going 60 and hitting the brake pretty hard doesn't do anything. What could be causing this squeeling? I noticed the drum on both sides had a lot of rust or brake residue or something that I didn't clean out as I wasn't sure if I should. Is there something I need to lubricate? I'm almost positive that it's coming from the front, and it's only when braking at low speeds. If anyone could help me out a bit, I would be greatly appreciative. Thanks in advance.
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#2 Old 05-08-2011, 03:14 PM
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Did you change or at least resurface your rotors?

Also, did you lubricate the slide pins and brake slides?

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#3 Old 05-08-2011, 03:41 PM
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The rotors were still in good shape. I don't know what slide pins or brake slides are, please explain.
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#4 Old 05-08-2011, 03:52 PM
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yup just like noted above. re-surfacing the rotors..if you have a small buffing wheel or die-grinder with a buffing pad just go over the front and back of the rotor, going in circles to get rid of the lines. Lube up the caliber slides and pins. also apply lube to the back of the brake pads as well.

I had my brakes doing the same thing but it was in the rear. Took the drums off, cleaned the brakes with brake cleaner, used some sand paper on the shoes to scuff them down. re-adjusted rear brakes and all is good now.

Make sure you know where the squealing is coming from if its front or rear.

When you put the brake pads on, did you push your brake caliper piston back? and if so did you open the bleeder screw.. What you should of done is crack the bleeder screw open and push the piston back...a small C-clamp works great, just stick the old brake pad in-between the piston and the end of the c-clamp....then once its pushed back keep pressure on there and tighten up the bleeder screw...Do this to both brake calipers..

Once you got both sides done, get in the car and tap your brake pedal over n over to the floor till its stiff. Top up your brake fluid resiovour and you should be good. I hope this helps your problem with your low brake pedal. but if you already have them put together, you will need to bleed the brake system and you will need a partner to do this with u for help.

If you need info and help on how to bleed your brakes post up and i will gladly help you out

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#5 Old 05-08-2011, 04:01 PM
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Just a general picture i googled from the internet:

You want to lubricate the slide pins, as well as where the brakes slide across the caliper bracket. Might also want to scuff up the brake slides(on the caliper brakcet, NOT the slide pins) with some sandpaper.



As for the low pedal pressure, unless you opened a bleeder screw, it *shouldnt* feel spongy. If you opened a bleeder screw, then you will want to bleed your brakes.

Whenever i change brake pads, and need to re-compress the piston, i always open up the brake fluid reservoir, instead of the bleed screws. This eliminates the need to bleed the brakes after the brake job.


Also, did you clean off the rotors with brake cleaner before installation?
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#6 Old 05-09-2011, 05:28 AM
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I didn't bleed anything when doing it, but I did have to push that piston back, and it was quite stiff. I did accidentally unscrew the hose line feeding it with fluid, and a tiny bit leaked onto the floor. I also did not lubricate anything when I put it back together. I will likely take the tires and brake back off to do so, so how would I go about bleeding them to get the stiffness back into the system while I am down there? I also did not clean anything with brake cleaner. If I should do that, what should I clean? When you say you scuffed up the shoes, is that the part that stays on the rotor or the part that comes off? Would synthetic waterproof grease be a good choice as I have some laying around that I used on my atv? Thanks so much for the help. Perhaps next time I will let a pro do it...

Also, not sure if I noted this before, but there was a lot of rust or brake residue inside the circular piston built up, is that something I should clean out with a wire brush or something as well? Thanks again.

Since I am taking the whole thing apart again, what is the best way to get the ?shoe? off of the pads? I have a bit of trouble and had to pry with a screw driver, whereas online and in the service manual it sounded like they should have just slid off. The piston was difficult to get at since the ?shoe? just swiveled and wouldnt pull off, and the piston required a lot of force to push in. Thanks.

Last edited by random_hero; 05-09-2011 at 05:31 AM.
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#7 Old 05-09-2011, 05:51 AM
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You DEFINITELY need to bleed the brakes. As soon as you disconnect any bake line, no matter what the location, it will let air into the system, and will make the pedal feel spongy. You also risk excessive pressure buildup, which could lead to a brake line failing, and most likely air in the brake caliper, which if run without brake fluid could seize the caliper.

To bleed the brakes, you will need another person to help you.

1. Have a friend pump the brakes 4-5 times.
2. On the last pump, have them hold the brake pedal firmly down, and HOLD it down.
3. While they are holding the pedal down, unscrew the bleeder screw a full turn on the caliper. This will release the air trapped in the line/caliper. Make sure the brake pedal is still being pressed. Releasing the brake pedal with the bleeder screw still open will let more air into the line, and will defeat the bleeding process.
4. Make sure to tighten the bleeder screw back, and have friend let go of the pedal, and re-pump the brakes to build up pressure. Repeat step 3, 4-5 times, until nothing but fluid comes from the bleeder valve, and all air is removed from the system. Also make sure to top off your brake fluid during this process, as you will need to add more.


As far as using brake cleaner, you need to spray the surface of the rotor, front and back, before installation. A brake rotor comes with an anti-corrosion coating that needs to be removed before use. Its possible that the brake pads can absorb the coating.

As for rust, its always a good idea to clean all of the parts while its apart.
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#8 Old 05-09-2011, 05:06 PM
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the rust you talk about on the caliper piston is not a huge concern to be honest since if u do clean it off it will look the same in a week anyway.

The water proof grease probally might work but if it were me i would go and buy the proper stuff. Go to your local auto parts store and you should be able to find something called disc brake quiet or something like that. this is to be used on the slipers (there are 2 small bolts on the brake caliper one on the top and bottom you half to take these bolts out to remove the caliper anyway. The slider is the part the its bolting into..it should just pull out from its lil boot thing, if there is already plenty of lube on it allready i wouldnt bother) lube the sliders like i just explained and the back of the brake pads

Scuff the pads or shoes... Shoes are what the call brake pads for a drum brake system. shoes are used on drum brakes, pads are used on disc brakes. scuff them with some snad paper and you should be good. You want to be scuffing the pad or shoe contact patch..the part that is touching the drum or brake rotor.

I hope all this information me and sunburst have provided helps you out and you get your brakes back to working properly..if u need anymore help just post up right away bro
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