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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
my SXT, has had hesitation problems. but very intermittant. But this hesitation and loss of RPM's only happens when the engine is idling in D, while at the light. For example, today i was stopped at the light, and i noticed a small jerk of the engine, so i looked that the RPM's and i saw it decline to about 500 RPMS, and then suddenly the engine shut off. I was able to immediately start the engine back up though. I have no MIL. What can I start checking myself, before i have to take to the "professional"


where can i find the EGR valve?, maybe its stuck open

I will also add, after reading a few other post, that I'm in florida, so temps are usually 80-90 right about now, and my idle issue only happens when the engine is warmed. I do also notice that when i start the engine, its not smooth IMO, the engine jumps a bit at initial start
 

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Discussion Starter #2
so is it safe to say, no one has really solved this problem yet?
isnt there something. I was driving today, and this problem isnt so intermittent anymore
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Whats your mileage?

Have you changed your spark plugs yet? how tight is your battery connection?

just a couple ideas
Spark plugs are pretty much still new...E3's...just reached 80,000 miles. and the battery connection???? i'll check

ok the battery connection is very solid...I can tell that i've lost mpgs too...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
no, it hasnt been changed. for the most that i could see, it looks like its in great condition, no cracks, doesnt look brittle. should i test that vacuum. how do i safely remove the pcv valve
 

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no, it hasnt been changed. for the most that i could see, it looks like its in great condition, no cracks, doesnt look brittle. should i test that vacuum. how do i safely remove the pcv valve
Its pretty simple, just unscrews IIRC

there is a pretty good video on youtube where a guy changes the one on a patriot...same engine, same location as the caliber.

its like a $12 part if that much. i don't know why that would cause the stalling though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
so i went ahead and cleaned the pcv valve, and i havent had a problem yet, but i'll have to monitor things still


so is the PCV valve replacement or cleaning, a usual fix for this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok, false alarm. the pcv valve is not the problem... the engine shut down again today while at a light. this only happens when im in drive, not in park, and the engine idles
 

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I didn't notice this thread until this morning, only to see UN4GTBL beat me to the PCV thought.
When it starts acting up, has the RPMs gone up at any time?
I believe the intake manifold is in the front (too early in the morning to go looking for pics) on the SXT (I have a SRT which is a totally different beast).
Anyway, if you notice the RPMs raise a bit while at idle (particularly if it is windy), it's for sure either your PCV or the vacuums hoses connected to it.
My 95 Neon had a bad PCV hose. At idle, it would either stall, or if the wind was blowing the right direction, rev up (The PCV was in the front, between intake stacks).

Other potential issues, bad power connections or grounds. At idle, your running voltage will be lower than it is when cruising. The weather is fairly damp there so corrosion is very possible.
Remove your battery clamps and clean the posts and clamps. I recommend picking up a backup clamp just in case, as the OEM ones do brake if you are not careful. Clean both terminals and clamps with either a battery post tool, wire brush or sandpaper.
Do not reconnect everything yet.
If you have a multi-meter, start checking the continuity between the negative clamp and your engine block, bare body metal, etc. This will give you an idea as to how bad you ground is (not totally required).
Next check your grounding straps (could be a bit of a choir). There should be one on or near the passenger front shock top, one on the starter, one going to the engine block, and probably one going to the alternator. Check both ends for corrosion and check the cable itself for damage (nicks, cuts, etc). I would suggest removing each end of the grounding cables and clean them up with some sandpaper.
Once you have checked and cleaned all your grounding straps, double check they are all connected again, then reconnect your battery clamps.

Hope that helps.
I recommend having a couple Coronas handy, as it'll take you probably an hour to two hours to check/clean everything. Take your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
no. the engine idles at around 700 rpms, then it'll start choking, and then shut off, but never goes above 1k rpms when at idle....i did the test for the pcv valve that was recommended by the service manual, and everything checked out. but yea, i'll loosen everything and clean them
 

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PCV valve changed?
no. the engine idles at around 700 rpms, then it'll start choking, and then shut off, but never goes above 1k rpms when at idle....i did the test for the pcv valve that was recommended by the service manual, and everything checked out. but yea, i'll loosen everything and clean them
I'd replace the PCV while you are at it. Don't remember what the recommended interval is to replace, but given it's fairly cheap, and you are having issues, now would be a good time to simply replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'd replace the PCV while you are at it. Don't remember what the recommended interval is to replace, but given it's fairly cheap, and you are having issues, now would be a good time to simply replace it.
does the pcv come in separate pieces, because i cant seem to find one that looks like what i pulled off of the engine, whether it be autozone or advancedautoparts
 

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does the pcv come in separate pieces, because i cant seem to find one that looks like what i pulled off of the engine, whether it be autozone or advancedautoparts
The PCV should be a small piece (fit in your pocket). The one on my old Neons were slightly smaller then a C size battery, with two nipples (one on either side).
I would suggest calling the dealer to see if you can get a part number for it, then go to your local parts store and pick one up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The PCV should be a small piece (fit in your pocket). The one on my old Neons were slightly smaller then a C size battery, with two nipples (one on either side).
I would suggest calling the dealer to see if you can get a part number for it, then go to your local parts store and pick one up.
ok i 'll do that. i'll also take a picture of what should be the pcv valve on the Caliber SXT
 

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The PCV should be a small piece (fit in your pocket). The one on my old Neons were slightly smaller then a C size battery, with two nipples (one on either side).
I would suggest calling the dealer to see if you can get a part number for it, then go to your local parts store and pick one up.
i know that I could only find it at the dealer.

not a problem it was about $12 taxes included.

EDIT: Found this old pic of my car without the engine cover on my phone, and highlighted the PCV location:

 

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Discussion Starter #18
yea, i have the same setup. i just didnt see the same thing online. so i'll check with the dealer tomorrow on my day off.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ok, so i replaced the pcv, i cleaned the battery terminals, and the grounding straps that i could find. But i'm still having the same issue. What else is in line to be checked? is there a IAC valve on these Calibers
 

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Did you ever get to the bottom of this? My car just spent a fees days in the shop having the oil intake and exhaust valves replaced due to a similar problem. I had no indication of a problem. I stopped at a store, came back to my car, started it up and it stuttered, shuttered and stalled. I couldn't even get mine in drive.
The TSB code for it was 18-018-07.

The tech wasn't sure why it died so suddenly and without any light before hand. It was the first caliber they had with that TSB. Of course my warranty expired 3 months ago.
 
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