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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well my caliber is getting dropped off tonight for service tomorrow. Thursday night I was out with some friends at Hooters and we all went to leave and I went to start up the caliber and nothing. All it did was turn over a few times and then finally it started. Im just bringing it in to have them take a look at it to be on the safe side. I mean the rest of the weekend it was fine.

That is all for now. I will know more tomorrow
 

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I notice on mine there is a delay when i turn the key.......but that's about all that I'm worried about...............You didn't step on the gas before you turned the key? That will cause it to flood.......just a thought.
 

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You really cant flood EFI that easy. Unlike a carb setup Injectors will not open when you press the pedal. They are controlled by the ecm and fire in a pulse width determinned by the O2 sensors, TPI and various other inputs. With the vehicle off the fuel pump will remain off and only residual pressure will remain in the fuel rail. Opening the throttle (in a cable driven application) will only open the throttle body.
 

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Pretty much going to be a waste of time dropping the car off to have the dealer look at it. All they will say is they couldn't re-produce it and it is just fine. Had my throttle stop working on my car twice during a round trip drive. Took it into the dealer to have them look at it, and they said they couldn't find anything and there was nothing wrong. I'm sorry to say, but if my throttle stops working while driving down the road, reguardless of if the dealer can re-produce it or not, there IS something wrong. If it happens again, it's going into the dealer and I'm going to demand something gets fixed on it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well dropped the car off this morning and added a new thing to the envelope....I noticed last night that when you have the headlights on and I went to put the window down a bit and once I hit the switch all the lights dimmed down. So we'll see what they say today.
 

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the dimming lights and labored starts are prolly just due to that crappy battery they use. Optima yellow top!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok heard from the dealer....they said the dimming lights are normal, they checked some of the calibers on the lot and they all do it. Also with the starting thing, she said everyything checked out but they are gonna contact chrysler to see if there are any bulletins out stating that people are having starting problems. So I can pick up my car after work.

I gotta get my friends log in info for Dodge because he works for them and can see recalls and problems people have with the calibers before the general public does...haha

The main reason I wanted to bring it is just so its on record and what not
 

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CaliberChik07 said:
The main reason I wanted to bring it is just so its on record and what not
Unless they actually have to fix something, it won't be recorded other than the fact that it was brought in for service. And pretty sure it will only be on the dealer computer, not something other dealers could access.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
not trying to argue or nothing..but the dealer who I go to records everything...at least they did with my neon when it had the warranty...I dunno maybe things changed.
 

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Myabe ill be the first to just grab a better battery for the car and see if the dimming lights and such improves. I seriously think thats the issue and just a deeper cycle battery will fix it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Fingernipp said:
Myabe ill be the first to just grab a better battery for the car and see if the dimming lights and such improves. I seriously think thats the issue and just a deeper cycle battery will fix it.
yea I totally agree with you there, if you decide to try out the new battery let us know how it all works out.
 

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Fingernipp said:
Myabe ill be the first to just grab a better battery for the car and see if the dimming lights and such improves. I seriously think thats the issue and just a deeper cycle battery will fix it.
If the motor is running and it still dims the lights, then it would be the alternator not putting out enough amps to meet the demand, and not a battery.
 

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If that were the case no factory system would be adequate. The alternator outputs as much as the regulator decides. A sudden load will have a delay as the current to the field is amplified and the system will not have enough amperage available for all running accessories at that given instant. A battery acts as a buffer and will help to feed the system when a sudden draw occurs. Even if the alternator was not out putting enough full fielded an intermittent draw is no need for a higher output alt. This is why caps are used in sound systems. They are basically just fast charge/discharge batteries. Add capacity to the system and problems go by by.
 

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You got me on that one with your explaination fingernipp........I was just raising a point that I was told never to press the gas pedal when starting an EFI engine. I think you may have put that one to rest.
 

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Gotta agree with you on that one too fingernipp!!!! I'll never doubt you again!!!!!LOL
 

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EXcaliber said:
You got me on that one with your explaination fingernipp........I was just raising a point that I was told never to press the gas pedal when starting an EFI engine. I think you may have put that one to rest.
I had always been told that too actually. Prolly not a good idea anyway and if i recall correctly many cars will not start with the gas depressed beyond a certain percentage as a safety mechanism.
 

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Fingernipp said:
If that were the case no factory system would be adequate. The alternator outputs as much as the regulator decides. A sudden load will have a delay as the current to the field is amplified and the system will not have enough amperage available for all running accessories at that given instant. A battery acts as a buffer and will help to feed the system when a sudden draw occurs. Even if the alternator was not out putting enough full fielded an intermittent draw is no need for a higher output alt. This is why caps are used in sound systems. They are basically just fast charge/discharge batteries. Add capacity to the system and problems go by by.
The lights in my truck never dimmed with the window switches, or any other electric accessory, even a big stereo with the stock alternator. Tried putting on an aftermarket "high amp" alternator and had nothing but problems with it not charging at idle. it had high amps as long as I wasn't idling. Even with a Red top Optima, the lights would dim with the stereo, or window switches like on the Caliber. Finally got tired of killing the battery and having to jump start it all the time and put a stock alternator back on and it ran fine with no more dimming of the lights at idle, unles my stereo had a big bass hit(not a stock stereo). Stock alternator for my truck is a 136amp alternator.

And yes, while the PCM does control the output of the alternator, it can't make it put out anymore than what the alternator is capable of. And when at idle, the alternator puts out lower amps. I still say the stock alternator can't keep up at idle when using other electrical items along with headlights. I doubt adding a different battery will fix the problem, but a cap probably will.
 

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A cap is no different than a battery really, just faster. A deep cycle battery can be good for a MUCH higher load than your alternator but ofcourse not for prolonged times. Your high output alternator you got may have been rated for soo many amps cold and at a certain rpm. If you ran a stock sized pully it may have actually output less than stock at idle.
If the stock alternator on the caliber could not keep up you would find your battery dead in just a few days. If your curious just run to autozone and have them run a charging system test. They can full field your alternator and run a load test to tell you exactly what the output is. Im pretty sure the cars stock electronics wont max it out at all.
 

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If the alternator could keep up with the stock electronics, there should be no dimming issues. As far as the car batteries dying, I really doubt people are sitting around at idle playing with switches and buttons with the headlights on for hours which is what it would take to drain the battery. Not sure about you, but my car doesn't spend much time at idle, and it charges just fine driving down the road. Just because the battereis aren't dying doesn't mean the alternator is putting out enough current at idle to power everything with no problems, it just means the batteries are still good. Put a weak battery in the system and see what happens.
 
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