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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Almost done with the stereo install. The head unit is a Panasonic CQ-C8401U.
Door speakers are Polk DB690's.
Sub is a 10" MB Quart.
Amp is made by Bolt.

Door speakers are driven solely by the head unit, 24 Watts RMS per channel because the Polks have a high sensitivity rating, so with that and by adjusting the crossover in the head unit, 24 watts is more than enough. Sub amp is 75 watts per channel, bridged for 150 watts.
XM tuner is in the dash behind the head unit.
The XM antenna is a magnetic mount, but I used some silicon gasket sealer to glue it down as an extra margin of safety. I have no found a grill for the sub I like yet, so I may just end up machining one myself as we have a lot of scrap and left over titanium pieces at work, and my boss lets me use the machines for my own projects on my own time.
 

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How does the sub sound in the side there? I looked inside there and there is not enough space for a sub. I think that it is not as good as a sealed box for the sub. What size are the speakers that you put in the doors? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, obviously there's enough room for a 10" MB Quart sub!
And it sounds good. I'm not into thumping, so I have no idea if it would do that, but for the music I listen to, it's perfect. I did cut a hole in the bulkhead wall towards the front, and that helped by making it act like a bigger enclosure.

Door speakers are still 6x9.
 

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i'm going to be putting rounds in my doors. I have the truck below and my door speakers are 6x9's but i currently have 1 sets of 5 1/4" MB Quart Premiums, and 1 set of 6 1/2" MB Quart Premiums i'm wondering how much better the rounds will sound then the stock infinity 6x9's i'm hoping for more bass response althought if thats not enough bass, i do have my Kicker L7 10". My speakers and sub will both be powered by the JBL PX300.4 the specs for the amp are 123 watts x 4 at 4 ohms and 350 watts x 2 at 4 ohms so 4 speakers on 350 watts and a sub on 350 is a great combination i would highly suggest any of the new jbl GTO and Power amps. the gti amps are just insane.
 

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I like your brush!!! lol!!!


Looks good!!!
 

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Silly New Guy Question :

Where did you get the single DIN faceplate kit...?

Ebay...google searches...lots of different places have I searched (wow was that Yoda I just did?) no luck.

In any case...please let us know.

Thanks...and it looks awesome!

_______________
2007 Caliber SXT
Silver Exterior, Pastel (why would they call it pastel??? grey interior)
Sirius (AWesome)
that's pretty much it...was cheap!
 

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The dash mount kit is the same as the Magnum and Charger. You should be able to track one down on eBay by searching for those. Crutchfield.com will also carry them for you.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that there are two different ones. One has just the DIN, the other has the DIN plus a small cubby under it. Either will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just went to a local car stereo shop. They did not even have to look at the car, just pulled the parts out. Got the din adaptor, antenna adaptor, and wiring harness adaptor for $40.00.
 

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New question...I stopped in to a local car audio shop today, and was told that for anything Post-manufacturer to work in the Calibur...I need to buy a $145 cable that makes the new install work with the computer system in the car. This sounded a little fishy to me...as I haven't read anything like that so far...any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That's a new one on me. The harness adaptor I got seems to be a generic Dodge adaptor. I had to splice 1 wire into the cigarette lighter for acc power. But everything works as the stock radio did. Power stays on when I turn the key off until I open the door. I'd try a different stereo shop.
 

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Yeah...it sounded like a scan to me also. Bastards...it would be nice to walk into a place around here and not immediately be on the defensive end of ANY transaction. If anyone is ever in the Virginia Beach area...don't buy anything...seems like every third person you meet is trying to scam ya. Well, I bought my Caliber last saturday and part of the deal was that we wrote in $2000 in "Accessory Allowance." Then when we went to the dealership to choose what we wanted...the parts guy was a perfect clone of the "Comic book store guy" from the Simpson's...basically he turned me off from ever buying anything from them...so I am going to get my $2000 back and use some of it to beef up the sound.
 

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old dude,
im getting ready to pull the stock unit out of mine. any advice for removing the metal dash piece? ive messed with it a little....not sure how it comes off.

im going to put in the new head unit, and amp and 10" subs i kept from my ram..should sound nice..
thanks in advance
 

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orange sxt said:
old dude,
im getting ready to pull the stock unit out of mine. any advice for removing the metal dash piece? ive messed with it a little....not sure how it comes off.

im going to put in the new head unit, and amp and 10" subs i kept from my ram..should sound nice..
thanks in advance
What metal piece? The plastic dash bezel is fairly easy to remove.

First remove the shift lever by using a thin plastic wedge to force the lower part down. Then simply pull straight up to remove the shift lever.

Next, remove the plastic shift lever trim bezel. I used a thin plastic spatula to wedge between the bezel and the console housing. There are 4 snaps, one in each corner. Use the spatula to push inward against the snaps while pulling up on the corner. Work your way around until all 4 are free.

Remove the stereo trim bezel in much the same manner. Start at the bottom which is now accessible. Use the thin plastic wedge between the console and the bezel while pulling up on the lower corner of the bezel. Once one snap is released work your way back and forth to each side until all snaps are free. You need to make sure you are only pulling right near each snap so as not to over flex the bezel.
 

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Old Dude.. (or anyone else with experience removing the center console bezel). I'm an amateur radio operator who's toying with the idea of putting a small ham radio into the cubby. Is the back part of that cubby and the bezel one piece or can the back part be removed?
 

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donsmith said:
Old Dude.. (or anyone else with experience removing the center console bezel). I'm an amateur radio operator who's toying with the idea of putting a small ham radio into the cubby. Is the back part of that cubby and the bezel one piece or can the back part be removed?
The black plastic cubby is a seperate piece attached to the bezel. It looks like it is mounted onto small posts molded into the bezel and then the post backings are melted to hold the cubby to the bezel. It should be quite easy to just snip off these posts and the cubby will come loose.

FYI the A/C vents are also attached to the bezel in the same fashion as the cubby. The A/C controls at the bottom unscrew as does the hazard switch panel.
 

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Thanks Huff. I'm disappointed that the cubby (and the vents) are attached in such a cheap, permanent way. That means if I put a ham radio into my cubby, which will require either removing or modifying the cubby, then I had better have a whole new bezel standing by for the day when I sell the Caliber. People within these forums talks about upgrading their bezel to one with a different texture and/or color and I guess the replacement comes with vents and cubby attached.
 

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well done. very clean.
 

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OD: did you seal that cubby hole you're using as an enclosure??? also, did you reinforce the panel at all?? what is the sub actually attached to?
 
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