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Applies to R/T model with 6 disk in dash factory deck and without Musicgate.

Just got done installing new door speakers, 520watt power acoustic amp and 2 10" audiobahn subs today. Sounds great. Just wanted to post some tips from what I learned for those of you aprehensive to start the project.

Door grills pop out easily with a sturdy thin spatchula to access the 6x9's. Swap is a cinch. I used 93 db rated 3 way 6x9's. Not passing bass through them they sound were clear and seam to get plenty of power from the deck. The depth is not very deep however and deep 6x9's such as earthquake's wont fit due to windows. Most standard 6x9's will fit fine.

I used a line level converter for the amp. That was much simplier than I thought it would be.

To get the proper wires off the factory deck I looked at the wires in each door connected to the speakers. Front speakers use the green wires, rear speakers use the grey wires.

There is quite a bit of room in the dash to mount the line level converter. Bezel pops off easily. To remove shifter just pull it upward. It doesn't unscrew.

To run wires throught the fire wall I found a gromet under the carpet on the drivers side just below the gas pedal. Pull up the front part of the carpet and the matting and you will see it. There is a rubber hose (I think a drain hose) that passes through it. The gromet is plenty big to pass a power wire and remote turn on wire throught it.

I ran power and remote turn on wire down the drives side to the back and RCA's down the passenger side.

Rather than tapping in the the outlets I ran the remote turn on wire to the fuse box under the hood. It ran nicely with the power wire going to the battery.

I put a very small blade terminal on the remote turn on and landed it to fuse number 11 (Lt blue). That is the power outlet fuse. There is a 3rd terminal just to the left of fuse 11 so you don't have to pull anything. It does turn on and off with key and sub will stay on untill door is opened.

All door trim pulled off very easily and running wires took less time then hooking up the line level converter. Didn't even need to pry, just pull up each pice.

I can't post pics yet but could answer some questions. The biggest problem I had was finding a hole in the fire wall. I searched for an hour before finding the drain line hole and it was in a perfect spot.
 

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john151ama said:
The depth is not very deep however and deep 6x9's such as earthquake's wont fit due to windows.
Damn Microsoft has to screw up everything these days.

Sorry, I couldn't resist.
 

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i had to trim the panel behind the speakers to get mine to fit.
really easy thought with a razor blade. do you have any pics?
 

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Applies to R/T model with 6 disk in dash factory deck and without Musicgate.

Just got done installing new door speakers, 520watt power acoustic amp and 2 10" audiobahn subs today. Sounds great. Just wanted to post some tips from what I learned for those of you aprehensive to start the project.

Door grills pop out easily with a sturdy thin spatchula to access the 6x9's. Swap is a cinch. I used 93 db rated 3 way 6x9's. Not passing bass through them they sound were clear and seam to get plenty of power from the deck. The depth is not very deep however and deep 6x9's such as earthquake's wont fit due to windows. Most standard 6x9's will fit fine.

I used a line level converter for the amp. That was much simplier than I thought it would be.

To get the proper wires off the factory deck I looked at the wires in each door connected to the speakers. Front speakers use the green wires, rear speakers use the grey wires.

There is quite a bit of room in the dash to mount the line level converter. Bezel pops off easily. To remove shifter just pull it upward. It doesn't unscrew.

To run wires throught the fire wall I found a gromet under the carpet on the drivers side just below the gas pedal. Pull up the front part of the carpet and the matting and you will see it. There is a rubber hose (I think a drain hose) that passes through it. The gromet is plenty big to pass a power wire and remote turn on wire throught it.

I ran power and remote turn on wire down the drives side to the back and RCA's down the passenger side.

Rather than tapping in the the outlets I ran the remote turn on wire to the fuse box under the hood. It ran nicely with the power wire going to the battery.

I put a very small blade terminal on the remote turn on and landed it to fuse number 11 (Lt blue). That is the power outlet fuse. There is a 3rd terminal just to the left of fuse 11 so you don't have to pull anything. It does turn on and off with key and sub will stay on untill door is opened.

All door trim pulled off very easily and running wires took less time then hooking up the line level converter. Didn't even need to pry, just pull up each pice.

I can't post pics yet but could answer some questions. The biggest problem I had was finding a hole in the fire wall. I searched for an hour before finding the drain line hole and it was in a perfect spot.
Hey bro I passed my power wire threw the gormet u said it's a 4 gauge power wire but I'm wondering the hose fits to with the power wire but how do I put the plug back?
 
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