I've used synthetic in my last two new vehicles but have waited until 8-10k km. until switching from conventional oil. Not sure if my numbers are the recommended or not but I allow some time for breakin and then switch.
Breaking in the Caliber, the rundown.
Hey Dan, do you know exactly what kind of oil is being put in the Caliber motors from the factory?DodgeInfoCenter said:Every vehicle we sell requires a proper break-in period for optimal engine life, including ALL SRT vehicles. Here is the exact wording from page 59 of the Caliber Owners Manual.
ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS
A long break-in period is not required for the engine in your new vehicle. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration, within the limits of local traffic laws, contributes to a good break-in. Wide open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.
The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. A new engine may consume some oil during its first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This should be considered as a normal part of the break-in and not interpreted as an indication of difficulty.
Dan
I'm wondering because I always run synthetic oil as soon as I take delivery. However it has recently come to my attention (see this thread at TheCarLounge.net http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2515790&page=1 ) that doing so may compromise the motor... or it may not. It looks like it may depend upon what happens at the factory.
How long is it recommended that the factory oil be left in the motor before synthetic is put in?
Will using synthetic too early harm the break-in period?
Is there any sort of precautions to take before using synthetic?
Thanks!
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The first one I think shoud be withinh atleast 3-5k miles.
Good point...although I was talking about the switch over not the change interval.
I would suggest leaving the factory oil in the vehicle until your first oil change to ensure a proper valve seating. The engine will also burn a small quantity of oil during its break in period. If you were set on changing the oil ahead of the suggested timeframe, 1000-1500 miles should be more then sufficient.GOT said:Hey Dan, do you know exactly what kind of oil is being put in the Caliber motors from the factory?
I'm wondering because I always run synthetic oil as soon as I take delivery. However it has recently come to my attention (see this thread at TheCarLounge.net http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2515790&page=1 ) that doing so may compromise the motor... or it may not. It looks like it may depend upon what happens at the factory.
How long is it recommended that the factory oil be left in the motor before synthetic is put in?
Will using synthetic too early harm the break-in period?
Is there any sort of precautions to take before using synthetic?
Thanks!
Here is what it lists under Oil Types (Page 269-270):
For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends engine oils that are API certified and meet the requirements of DaimlerChrysler Material Standard
MS-6395.
Conventional Engine Oils
Engine Oil Viscosity (SAE Grade) SAE 5W-20 engine oil is recommended for all operating temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy. Your engine oil filler cap also states the recommended engine oil viscosity grade for your engine. Lubricants which do not have both, the engine oil certification mark and the correct SAE viscosity grade number should not be used.
Synthetic Engine Oils
There are a number of engine oils being promoted as either synthetic or semi-synthetic. If you chose to use such a product, use only those oils that are American Petroleum Institute (API) Certified and have the recommended
SAE viscosity grade. Follow the maintenance schedule that describes your driving type. Materials Added To Engine Oils
The manufacture strongly recommends against the addition of any additives (other than leak detection dyes) to the engine oil. Engine oil is an engineered product and it’s performance may be impaired by supplemental additives.
Dan
Thanks Dan.
Do you know what type of oil is put in Calibers at the factory? I'm curious.
Do you know what type of oil is put in Calibers at the factory? I'm curious.
GOT... I put synthetic in my Neon...the thing started to knock...I quickly changed back to regular oil...the recommended viscosity, and the knock went away and hasn't been back...changed my opinion of synthetics...and I used Mobil 1GOT said:Hey Dan, do you know exactly what kind of oil is being put in the Caliber motors from the factory?
I'm wondering because I always run synthetic oil as soon as I take delivery. However it has recently come to my attention (see this thread at TheCarLounge.net http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2515790&page=1 ) that doing so may compromise the motor... or it may not. It looks like it may depend upon what happens at the factory.
How long is it recommended that the factory oil be left in the motor before synthetic is put in?
Will using synthetic too early harm the break-in period?
Is there any sort of precautions to take before using synthetic?
Thanks!
Odd. I'm not a mechanic so I wonder why that happened??? I don't know for sure what causes the knock but I always thought it was caused from too much fuel in the cylincer and it couldn't be burned fast enough.Ramsport47 said:GOT... I put synthetic in my Neon...the thing started to knock...I quickly changed back to regular oil...the recommended viscosity, and the knock went away and hasn't been back...changed my opinion of synthetics...and I used Mobil 1
I'm not sure either...sounded like a rod knock...but it's gone now, and I will only use natural oil
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