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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok after searching and searching and searching on here. What i do want to know is.. what is the best paint care from start to finish. Washing, waxing, drying, spot cleaning, everything. Just i want my car to be perfectly clean at all times... even if i have to wash it daily and wipe it down hourly... like i want to spot clean every time i park. What should i use on it for that as well as everything else? Like i want show car cleanliness as much as possible lol
 

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Like father, like son, we both swear by Meguiars products, especially their proffessional stuff.

When I got the car, on the way back home, I dropped by the car wash, and hand washed the Caliber with Gold Class Car Wash. Dried it there, went home, and used the Smooth Surface Quik Clay Kit to get all the fine contaminates out of the paint. It makes the paint smooth as glass because it gets the fine contaminates out. In the kit, it comes with a bottle of Quik Detailer and a microfiber cloth, that is ideal for wipe downs between washes. Waxed it with Mirror Glaze Yellow wax. It doesn't leave the white crap on the plastic, and it lasts forever. Shined the tires with Gold Class high endurance tire gloss, gives them a nice shine, and it protects the tire if you scrub a curb, tried and true, lol.

For the interior, I use #40 vinyl and rubber cleaner for the dash and plastics. It helps preserve and protect the plastic and gives it a nice dull sheen. For all the glass I use Gunk Ammonia Free Foaming Glass cleaner after all is said and done.

All these products don't use harsh chemicals, and have a decent scent, especially the quik detailer. Keeps the car looking great for a long time!

After the car is really waxed (not the dealership shine crap) you can use one of those gel squegee's to wipe the water off the car to eliminate spotting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
any ideas where i can order this stuff? that will ship to APO thanks so much for the feedback as well... just a few questions however about the #40 vinyl and rubber cleaner... who makes it? Meguiars? also that interior stuff i really hate how armor all makes it all shinny if that dull shine is how you mean clean yet not overly glazed looking that would be perfect... also what do you use to dry and what do you use on the windows... just a paper towel? and i've never heard of this gel squeegee you are talking about? what is it? also do you know anything about this 3m paint protector that i hear people talking about on here?
 

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mmmm, to ship to an APO, I honestly don't know. Are you in the military as well?

http://www.meguiars.com and use their online store, you can find all of there stuff there. Other online automotive stores may have the stuff as well.

Another company is Mother's, they make good stuff as well.

As for the #40, it's also made by Meguiars, all the professional stuff has a number. It works great, and it does not give it that annoying shine, just enough to give it a clean, brand new look. No need to dry it, just clean/wipe with it.

On the windows, I use low lint microfiber towels, ordinary towels (terry especially) leave behind a lot of lint, but still do a good job of cleaning, most of the lint blows away anyways. I've heard newspaper has been used for cleaning glass and had great results, but I have not tried this myself.

The dryblade made by the original california car duster company is great, but most other companies like turtlewax make them. It only works well if you have a good coat of wax on the car, if it doesn't, it will drag.

I have found chamois cloths to be a pain, they fill up with water fast, and they are expensive for a good one.

Another thing I forgot to mention earlier is the California Car Duster. It works great. Especially if you live near a dusty area or go through construction areas a lot.

The 3M paint protector is the same thing as another product called ClearBra. It's basically a piece of clear vinyl placed over the heavy wear spots on the front (bumper, front of the hood, etc). I have never used it, had a friend put on the front of his new truck and it looked ok, barely visible.

As with anything follow the directions and use a little common sense, and you should have great results. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thank you for all your help... yes i am in the military and stationed overdeas in germany... so it's really hard to get american stuff seeing as AAFES blows and well germany doesn't have much good stuff on the market for well anything, also not many american buisinesses are willing to ship to APO.
 

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I also use alot of Meguiars products too, and all seem to do an excellent job.

Have someone in the States buy them and ship them to you that way...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i usually have to but that takes longer cuz you have to wait for them to ship to friend and then friend to ship to me... if i CAN get it direct it'll def be faster than if i can't
 

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mudstone said:
ok after searching and searching and searching on here. What i do want to know is.. what is the best paint care from start to finish. Washing, waxing, drying, spot cleaning, everything. Just i want my car to be perfectly clean at all times... even if i have to wash it daily and wipe it down hourly... like i want to spot clean every time i park. What should i use on it for that as well as everything else? Like i want show car cleanliness as much as possible lol
Good info here..http://www.srtforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=166
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks Steel that was actually very helpful... i've decided that the most important part is this clay bar treatment they are always talking about... i'm gonna go with meguiars the whole way through... i just really hope i don't F-up this whole clay thing.... do scrub hard or just lightly and how do you know when you are done cuz some people are talking about 7 hours?
 

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mudstone said:
thanks Steel that was actually very helpful... i've decided that the most important part is this clay bar treatment they are always talking about... i'm gonna go with meguiars the whole way through... i just really hope i don't F-up this whole clay thing.... do scrub hard or just lightly and how do you know when you are done cuz some people are talking about 7 hours?
No problem!
With the clay bar, just make sure you know what areas of the car you already cleaned,and went over. Also, no matter what you do, DO NOT DROP THE CLAY SOAP! (no, this ain't jail, to all you dirty minded humans!:D) If you do, you will have to throw it away, to avoid scratching your paint. Scrub with "passion" NOT HARD!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sooo umm even light pressure and quick back and forth strokes or just run over it in one direction slowly? come on gimme the Clay Bar for Dummies on this one lol
 

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haha, it's ok, we've all been there.

Light to medium pressure is ideal, make sure to use A LOT of the quik detailer with it, as it lubricates the surface. The kit comes with 2 pieces of clay, I combined mine to make life easier, but if you have the dropsies, you might want to keep the other one handy, just in case. It does take a bit of effort and patience, but the results are worth it. Run your fingers lightly over the surface before, then do it again after the clay, and you will feel and see the difference. It only gets better after the wax :D

I had paint overspray from the lines in the road on the side of my old Spirit, and nothing would take it off. I used the clay bar and a bit of elbow grease, and the paint came off, it was astounding.

Back and fourth, circles, I switch it up so that I don't get tired. When the clay gets dirty, knead it a few times to clean it, and go back at it. Again USE LOTS OF LUBE!!! hehehe

Also, cannot emphasize this enough, make sure you are doing this, and all car detailing for that matter, in the shade, or at night when it's nice and cool. You DO NOT want shit drying to the paint, it makes not for a good day.

A bit off topic, but what branch are you in? I'm Navy, E-3 Aviation Electronics Technician.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
US Army PFC E-3 Machinist in Germany thanks for the info on the clay... so back and forth or circles... or back and forth circles? lol i'm sorry just never had a car i cared enough about to do this... the caliber is my first car not older than i am.... EDIT:: do i have to wash/ rinse the car after clay before waxing?? or just finish clay then wax?
 

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one tip: never put a soda on the roof.. and forget about it.. lol.. shit eats down to the metal [from experience, i know this.. but it wasnt cause i forgot about it - it was cause i thought it was condensation from the cup] -- give it 10 minutes and ur paint will be gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
hmmm very good to know... i'll keep my soda in the illuminated cup holders :)
 

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meguires and 3M 10 fold. nothing beats it IMO. if i get the time i might even do a light wetsand and buff job on the caliber to shine it out a bit... might wait to see if my airbrush work comes throught first..... orange peel drives me nuts...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i have no idea what your post meant?
 

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^^ my post?
 

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i just hate factory finishes.... if i get it airbrush like im suppose to, think im going to do a extra couple coats of clear and wetsand and buff it up... i think a new car should be like a mirror. guess im too picky. :)
 
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