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Hmmm, very sketchy without proof (dyno?), my assumption especially with the Neon ones (not that I bought one) is that they don't do much if anything, BUT I may be wrong. I am guessing if it does do anything it just "reprograms" the CVT to make you "feel" you have more HP, but I have no idea.

Install it (looks like you were buyer??) and let us know what you think;)

Maybe get a dyno before and after install??!!
 

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What do you know, after all these years, there's STILL a sucker born every minute... :D

Please don't cut any of your OEM wiring to install this thing... you'll hate yourself later...

Have fun,
Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmmm....

well i did buy it, but hey it was $10 and i don't know much about cars, so if anyone else has any opinions it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so far
 

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Look at the sellers comments people that bought these for other cars, ame chip idea, and they say they worked ???

Flaps
 

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jayster_4_69 said:
Hmmmm....

well i did buy it, but hey it was $10 and i don't know much about cars, so if anyone else has any opinions it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so far
Thats what I was figuring, if it was $10 then if it doesn't work then you really did not lose out. Let us know....

Dale Seeley said:
Please don't cut any of your OEM wiring to install this thing... you'll hate yourself later...
I also agree with him, don't cut if it is required!

Flaps said:
Look at the sellers comments people that bought these for other cars, ame chip idea, and they say they worked ???
That was the second thing I did too, people "say" it worked, but you won't know if you or someone else tries I guess.
 

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After doing a little look at his feedback, it seems this is simply a resistor to "trick" the Mass airflow sensor into thinking the incoming air is colder or possibly more than stock. While aftermarket computers sometimes do the same thing, I am pretty confident they monitor other sensors to check for a lean condition or knock. I dont know if I would personally wanna do this with a brand new car.
 

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Several vendors over the years have sold these on Ebay. They all seem to disappear after awhile. You can buy the same resistor from Radio Shack for about 89cents.

I used them on several Neons, Stratus, etc type cars. Most of them you can feel a slight increase in midrange pull, mostly they seem to get rid of a little lag. I don't think its 25 HP, maybe 3-4?!?!?!? EVERY ONE of them has set a random check engine light - not life threatening. Just blips the computer and it sets a code for Air Intake Tempature Sensor. Just ignore it if you want to keep the resistor in, otherwise take out the resistor disco the battery for 5 and then recon. VOILA! no more light.

You do NO wire cutting on the ones I had. you unplug IATS and then insert resistor,
34.5 seconds total time required!!
 

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But seriously...

please don't cut your wire harness for this... even if you are pretty good with a soldering iron, you'll regret it down the road, so to speak...

Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks everyone for your feedback, i wont do anything stupid and if it is simple without cutting any wires i will try it out and let everyone know how it goes. i dont get my caliber until early June so hope everyone can wait.
 

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jayster_4_69 said:
...I dont get my caliber until early June so hope everyone can wait.
I know I'm probably making an obvious statement...but oh well. It's my two-cents worth.

Recommend you not make the modification until you've had an ample amount of time driving with the plain-jane. That really means going beyond the discussed break-in period to allow the engine to settle into its groove. As many have said, the Caliber got better over time (break-in time).

I'm eager to hear your about the horse-power improvements, but I'm hoping I don't hear about them before September.

...yeh, I'm expecting change from my two-cents worth.

Tyke
 

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Jeez Tyke..you're a tightwad, always wanting change back...come on man, it's two cents!! :D:D:eek:
 

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they do somewhat work, install is only a few seconds, but... really... its not worth the 10 bucks. i took mine out after no time. and the thing about the code coming up as the IAT sensor is true. had one on my neon.
 

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This resistor tuning stuff is crap. It simulates colder air and the computer of the car starts to put in more fuel. Bad thing is, that the combustion changes, producing more exhaust gas which will harm your catalytic converter. Please don't do that to your car!!!

I have a nice german text about it. I tranlated it with google, cause I have no time to do it manually. Hopefully it is understandable.

Here it is:
1.) What is made?
A Tuning at the IAT sensor is accomplished.

2.) What makes the IAT sensor?
The IAT sensor measures the temperature of sucked in air.
This is necessary, since the density of air, and thus that are
dependent on the temperature oxygen content.
The IAT sensor is thus important for the air/fuel mixture and the computation of the injected amount of fuel.

3.) What is getunt?
Usually a resistance, is more or less prettily packed wedged between the sensor and the controller.
This resistance changes the measuring voltage, which the sensor sends to the controller in accordance with the Ohm's laws.

4.) What costs this Tuning material?
On the large well-known auction platforms such “Tuningkits” is driven out between 10 and 30 euro. The material equivalent amounts to against it, depending upon source, between few cent and 1 euro.

5.) What happens in the controller and in the engine?
The controller it is vorgegaukelt in this way that sucked in air is colder, than it is actual it. The controller is the opinion that the density of air is higher, and injects more fuel. The mixture, which the engine receives, is thus angefettet. This leads these to FATS so mentioned the burn, supplies indeed minimum more engine performance than the stoichiometric burn in such a way specified. By the other automatic control, which is blocked in modern passenger car, this effect is however strongly minimized.

5.) What are the consequences for the exhaust gas values?
Since the burn is fat now, the output at pollutants partially substantial is increased. With the stöchiometischen burn straight so many oxidizing and reducing pollutants develop that these abreact with one another at the catalyst and the pollutant output of the vehicle is minimized. With the fat burn however increases Carbon monoxide develops (poisonous!) and unburned hydrocarbons remain. The content of nitrogen oxides drops however strongly.

6.) What means for the car?
The following can happen in the consequence. In particular in the short-distance enterprise the entry of fuel is again strengthened in the oil (only Benziner!). The oil loses its functionality faster, it exists a clearly higher danger that the lubricating film tears and a damage to the engine the consequence is. Further the Kat is satisfied permanently with unburned hydrocarbons. This means, which becomes clearly hotter the catalyst, than from the manufacturer intends, and thus can take a damage. At the latest with the next or OUTER ONE after the next, with which a new catalyst is due, this Tuning was no longer cheap. (Catalysts lie between 300 and 1000 euro).

7.) Now there how much Tuningeffekt is?!
As a driver of a car in such a way modified one will probably tighten a better in the lower and middle speed range the vehicle to notice. The maximum performance will not change against it in a larger measure. Also a clear increase of the maximum speed is in my opinion not to be expected.
 

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Wait for somebody to develop a tuner module for the car. Couple that with a free flowing intake adn exhaust system and you'll have a 10 to 15% gain in HP and maybe a mileage increase too. The resistor to fool the computer does bad things man.......bad things
 
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