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Discussion Starter #1
For the life of me, I swear I saw somewhere on this site (and then referred to the manual) that you are supposed to get your first oil change at between 1000-1500 miles. Is that correct?

My car is at the dealership to get this done and they called me saying they could not find it in the manual and I cannot find the post on this forum that spoke about it.

Thanks!

Marc
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I should add that my car is not at the dealership JUST for an oil change. LOL I had to leave it because my valves or something in the engine is making a rattle and it didn't do that when I first bought the car.
 

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I was gonna say, sittin at the dealership because of oil? :D
 

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Dunno dude....Wait! I found it I think, hold on...

" Originally Posted by DodgeInfoCenter

Every vehicle we sell requires a proper break-in period for optimal engine life, including ALL SRT vehicles. Here is the exact wording from page 59 of the Caliber Owners Manual.

ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS
A long break-in period is not required for the engine in your new vehicle. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.

While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration, within the limits of local traffic laws, contributes to a good break-in. Wide open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.

The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. A new engine may consume some oil during its first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This should be considered as a normal part of the break-in and not interpreted as an indication of difficulty.

ALSO:

It is recommended that you leave the factory oil in the vehicle until the first oil change to ensure proper valve seating. After the first change, it would be fine to put in synthetic."


Ahh...it doesn't say when, check in the little maintinence booklet too. I think it'd just be at a normal interval but that's just me.. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea, I found that post but it doesn't say "when" like you said. I could have swore I saw somewhere on this forum that it stated between 1000-1500 miles for the FIRST oil change and then regular oil changes after that.

I'm hoping someone can help because I don't have my manual with me, it is at the dealership and they are saying they can't find anything about it in the manual.
 

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The manual talks about break-in on page 59 and mentions 300 miles but oil changes at 6000 miles or at 3000 miles under 'extreme' conditions (which seem to apply to most conditions).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
canoenut said:
The manual talks about break-in on page 59 and mentions 300 miles but oil changes at 6000 miles or at 3000 miles under 'extreme' conditions (which seem to apply to most conditions).
Well, I guess I was seeing things. LOL If it doesn't say anything about it in the manual, I guess I am fine until 3000 miles.
 

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Well it doesn't hurt to change your oil more often then specified. I usually meet mid way for my cars, every 3-4k.

BUT for the first one I would change it at 1.5K just for the hell of it even if it is not recommended.:)
 

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ghoticov said:
For the life of me, I swear I saw somewhere on this site (and then referred to the manual) that you are supposed to get your first oil change at between 1000-1500 miles. Is that correct?

My car is at the dealership to get this done and they called me saying they could not find it in the manual and I cannot find the post on this forum that spoke about it.

Thanks!

Marc
Hello again,

If you check page 316 of the Caliber’s manual, it suggests a 3 month 3,000 mile under schedule B and twice that for schedule A. (See Below For Qualifications).

The first oil change doesn’t have to be early but some people like to change the oil above spec to reduce deposits over prolonged periods. The dealership may be hesitant to change the oil because simply because it is not needed yet but If you specifically ask, I don’t know why they would refuse the extra business. (You will have to pay for it)

Some people just like to take pristine care of there vehicles, these are the vehicles you see driving around a decade later with little or no problems.

Schedule B Qualifications
• Day or night temperatures are below 32° F (0° C).​
• Stop and go driving.
• Extensive engine idling.
• Driving in dusty conditions.
• Short trips of less than 10 miles (16 km).
• More than 50% of your driving is at sustained high speeds during hot weather, above 90° F (32° C).
• Trailer towing.
• Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial service).
• Off-road or desert operation.
• Heavy Loading

If none of these apply, follow Schedule A. (<-- I find this unlikely)


Cheers,
Dan
 

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Also, given the headaches that poeple had with sludge in their 2.7L V6... and the subsequent problems people had getting engine work because they couldn't prove regular service intervals... get your oil changed often per the manual to make sure you don't get hosed ;)
 

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Just an FYI, Saab, VW, Toyota, and other manufacturers have also had a problem with owners getting hosed with sludge... and it's just a royal pain to deal with a company to get warranty work if you don't have maitenance records.

Reciepts for motor oil and filters should be sufficient
 

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I was booked for the first oil change the day we picked up our Caliber. It was set for three months down the road or 5000 Kilometers. If that came first the appointment would be moved up. Hope it helps, cause a dealer wouldn't lie!!!
 

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holeydonut said:
Just an FYI, Saab, VW, Toyota, and other manufacturers have also had a problem with owners getting hosed with sludge... and it's just a royal pain to deal with a company to get warranty work if you don't have maitenance records.

Reciepts for motor oil and filters should be sufficient
I Strongly Agree, I would suggest filing each and every service receipt away in the event something happens. Dealerships are obliged to provide you a paper receipt for every piece of work they perform on your vehicle, warrantied or not.

Regular maintenance records also vastly improve resale value and shows the prospective buyer you took care of your vehicle. Hang onto your receipts.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you for everyone's help (esp. DodgeInfoCenter)! I just picked up my car because they did not want to change the oil, or do ANYTING to the car until they spoke to someone at Chrysler...but they are closed today and Monday.

So, my engine rattle will have to wait. They were told they cannot do anything to these new vehicles without speaking with someone at Chrysler about the situation.

The engine rattle is about to drive me crazy. I love the car and this is really the only problem I have had. But the engine sounds like I have 150K miles on it. The salesperson thought it may be bad gas but 3 fill ups later, it is still doing it. It is noticable when you give it any kind of gas (not stomped to the floor of course).
 

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ghoticov said:
For the life of me, I swear I saw somewhere on this site (and then referred to the manual) that you are supposed to get your first oil change at between 1000-1500 miles. Is that correct?

My car is at the dealership to get this done and they called me saying they could not find it in the manual and I cannot find the post on this forum that spoke about it.

Thanks!

Marc
I think I found the thread you were talking about... http://www.caliberforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4904&postcount=5
I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
calibered said:
I think I found the thread you were talking about... http://www.caliberforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4904&postcount=5
I hope this helps.
Yep, that was it! Thanks!

Here is the quote:
"I would suggest leaving the factory oil in the vehicle until your first oil change to ensure a proper valve seating. The engine will also burn a small quantity of oil during its break in period. If you were set on changing the oil ahead of the suggested timeframe, 1000-1500 miles should be more then sufficient."

Now I see that he wasn't saying that it NEEDED to be done, only that it could be done.
 

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ghoticov said:
Thank you for everyone's help (esp. DodgeInfoCenter)! I just picked up my car because they did not want to change the oil, or do ANYTING to the car until they spoke to someone at Chrysler...but they are closed today and Monday.

So, my engine rattle will have to wait. They were told they cannot do anything to these new vehicles without speaking with someone at Chrysler about the situation.

The engine rattle is about to drive me crazy. I love the car and this is really the only problem I have had. But the engine sounds like I have 150K miles on it. The salesperson thought it may be bad gas but 3 fill ups later, it is still doing it. It is noticable when you give it any kind of gas (not stomped to the floor of course).
I would try 2 things on this so you don't get hosed by Chrysler:
1) Take it to another dealer if you can and have them look at it OR
2) Have Dodge document IN WRITING that you brought it in for engine noise.
If the engine should self-destruct while waiting for service, at least you will be able to show that you attempted to have the problem looked at. This will give you a leg to stand on regarding warrenty service.
 

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ghoticov said:
Thank you for everyone's help (esp. DodgeInfoCenter)! I just picked up my car because they did not want to change the oil, or do ANYTING to the car until they spoke to someone at Chrysler...but they are closed today and Monday.

So, my engine rattle will have to wait. They were told they cannot do anything to these new vehicles without speaking with someone at Chrysler about the situation.

The engine rattle is about to drive me crazy. I love the car and this is really the only problem I have had. But the engine sounds like I have 150K miles on it. The salesperson thought it may be bad gas but 3 fill ups later, it is still doing it. It is noticable when you give it any kind of gas (not stomped to the floor of course).
Above all, I would be present when they drop the oil AND cut open the filter, to check for any presence of "crumbs", the ones picked up by a magnet will be steel (duh)the rest will be aluminum..lets hope there are none and all comes out clean as a whistle, also the drain plug may be magnetic..........:eek:
 
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