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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car started giving me some issues with getting into reverse, so I took a look under the hood and found this niffty little adjuster (1st picture).

Pop it off the shifter piviot and move onto the next step.

Now you have to push the white clip off the yellow part in order to get the yellow part to release from the black adjuster (2nd picture). The white clip "DOES NOT COME OFF", just push it up and away from the yellow adjuster piece. If you try to take it off you will need another cable.

Now that you have the clipped pushed up you can turn the adjuster over. You can see that the yellow part drops down into a threaded adjuster. Push the yellow part out of the threaded adjuster (takes a good amount of pressure so be careful but forceful). This part doesn't like to push all the way out of the cable end so don't force it out, just push if far enough out that you can move the threaded part up and down (picture 3 shows the adjuster lock in the locked position, you will have to clear this from the threads in order to adjust the shifter cable/shift rod).

Now it's time to adjust your shift linkage. If the car is difficult to get into reverce, move the threaded part towards the cable/shift rod. If its hard to get into 6th gear, move it down away from the cable/shift rod. It will take some time of playing with it and one thread on the adjuster will make the trans shift smooth as silk, where the next one will nake it "notchy". Take your time and when your all done don't forget to drop the white part back down over the yellow retainer/adjuster lock.

Please if you have any questions feel free to ask them in my section, thanks and I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, and trust me guys if you take the time to do this.... huge difference.

Now can anyone tell me if the stock Caliber is similar? If so then adjustment details listed above should be the same for the base Caliber stick shift car as it is for this one.
 

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thanks for the tip. I just did this on my csrt4 after reading your post. On my car 2nd gear shifting was a bit notchy, so I figured the shift cable might not be pulling it back far enough during a shift. I adjusted the cable to be shorter by 2 turns, turning it towards the firewall. This has worked quite well for my car, and I believe that shortening the cable helps to pull 2nd gear back a bit further and perhaps a bit quicker which has made 2nd gear shifting more positive. I think for gears 2,4, & 6 making the cable shorter (turning towards the firewall) might help, and for gears R, 1,3,& 5 turning the cable towards the front bumper might be best. That is just a guess though, I just base that on my experience with adjustments. When I turned the cable towards the bumper (making it longer) it seemed to make 2nd gear shifting worse, but when I shortened it my shifting improved for 2nd gear.

One note, I did not have to push the yellowish plastic piece out of the cable, once I slid the white clip upwards it allowed the adjuster to rotate as needed without having to push the other piece outwards. I think you can get away with an adjustment with one less step, plus that piece is hard to move when working in such a tight location. I found it hard to move but when looking at it closely it rotated fine on the threaded piece it did not seem necessary to mess around with it further. It is a pretty quick adjustment if you don't have to mess around with the last step. To access the cable I removed the battery on each adjustment. I thought I might have to remove the air box but that was not necessary, just the battery. You don't even need to touch the battery tray just remove the battery itself. Remember to remove the battery you need to loosen the 13mm bolt that is on the battery hold-down guard at the front bottom area of the battery, that loosens the battery so you can pull it out of the vehicle after pulling the pos and neg. teriminals, and battery thermal jacket.
 

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alright i was trying to mess with this today, and i couldnt get the yellow piece off because i was afraid i was going to break it. the adjuster spun just fine but it didnt move up or down the thread. does anyone know how to get that yellow piece off? any ideas or help?
 

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alright i was trying to mess with this today, and i couldnt get the yellow piece off because i was afraid i was going to break it.
Same issue here. I just left it. The plastic is so tight in there, I'd break it if I was able to remove it.
 

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when i get a chance im going to give it another shot. my second gear is really notchy and its the only gear i have trouble with, but it happens to be the most important for those 0-60 pulls.

oh and on another note. the white clip does come off. it slides off and on.
 

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all of my gears seem real notchy. has anyone gotten this to work? is this adjustment under the car or under the hood, does anyone have a pic of where we can locate this? do you have to adjust it then test drive it over and over or is this something that you can just go sit in the car and feel with it parked?
 

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thanks for the tip. I just did this on my csrt4 after reading your post. On my car 2nd gear shifting was a bit notchy, so I figured the shift cable might not be pulling it back far enough during a shift. I adjusted the cable to be shorter by 2 turns, turning it towards the firewall. This has worked quite well for my car, and I believe that shortening the cable helps to pull 2nd gear back a bit further and perhaps a bit quicker which has made 2nd gear shifting more positive. I think for gears 2,4, & 6 making the cable shorter (turning towards the firewall) might help, and for gears R, 1,3,& 5 turning the cable towards the front bumper might be best. That is just a guess though, I just base that on my experience with adjustments. When I turned the cable towards the bumper (making it longer) it seemed to make 2nd gear shifting worse, but when I shortened it my shifting improved for 2nd gear.

One note, I did not have to push the yellowish plastic piece out of the cable, once I slid the white clip upwards it allowed the adjuster to rotate as needed without having to push the other piece outwards. I think you can get away with an adjustment with one less step, plus that piece is hard to move when working in such a tight location. I found it hard to move but when looking at it closely it rotated fine on the threaded piece it did not seem necessary to mess around with it further. It is a pretty quick adjustment if you don't have to mess around with the last step. To access the cable I removed the battery on each adjustment. I thought I might have to remove the air box but that was not necessary, just the battery. You don't even need to touch the battery tray just remove the battery itself. Remember to remove the battery you need to loosen the 13mm bolt that is on the battery hold-down guard at the front bottom area of the battery, that loosens the battery so you can pull it out of the vehicle after pulling the pos and neg. teriminals, and battery thermal jacket.
JMCSRT4,

I just finished adjusting my cable due to issues with 4 & 6. Everything is great now. Went 2 threads towards the firewall.

However, your statement about not sliding the yellow nylon piece out is wrong. The threads on the adjuster are not like a regular screw. Meaning no matter how many times you turn the piece you will not move it towards the firewall one bit. You have to move the nylon piece back then slide the adjuster along the threads then put the yellow nylon piece back in place.
 

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Haven't had a problem getting into gear. It did seem slightly rough going in but was equal in every gear. After my street motor mounts it made it into butter. Maybe it makes it notchy with all the movement in the bay. Just a thought.
 
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