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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't seem to make this happen on my own. I am seeking earnest help. I've pulled the necessary pages on the wiring layout...but it's Greek to me. Someone here knows how to interpret this to our advantage.

Bottom Line
We need the accessory plug (cigarette lighter) to remain hot even if the key isn't in the ignition. Please see attached PDF document (link).
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Whoa what the hell's up with that chart...

I know if you pull/change some fuses, it will stay on but I have no clue which ones..:D
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

You can do it. Cut the power wire coming out from the back of the cigar lighter, and splice it into a known good constant hot. You can do it anyother way. It looks like the power for the cigar lighter is multiplexed, therefore the ECM has control.
Either that or find fuse 16 in the fuse panel, and the hot wire coming into fuse 16, splice that one into a constant power. That way the circuit will still be protected and look stock. If I had the car in front of me, I could do it in about 20.
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

At least we have someone who knows what they're doing when it comes to car electrics..:D
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

caliber4whoosh said:
At least we have someone who knows what they're doing when it comes to car electrics..:D
It's what I get paid to do. I work for International Truck and Engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

RobMR3 said:
You can do it. Cut the power wire ... Either that or find fuse 16 in the fuse panel, and the hot wire coming into fuse 16, splice that one into a constant power. That way the circuit will still be protected and look stock. If I had the car in front of me, I could do it in about 20.
Yikes, I guess I was looking for a way of doing this without making wire cuts and splices. I appreciate your response...not quite what I was looking for at the time.

I know this subject has come up in other threads; however, no real solution has been established specifically for the Caliber. On a previous vehicle I owned, there was no cutting of wires. The solution was to jumper a module plug-in. My hopes was that a schematic reader would recognize something like that with respect to the Caliber.

With that in mind, can you see another way of making it happen RobMR3.

Thanks

Tyke
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

I made sure that I had all my ducks in a row....so I looked up the previous discussion on making the plug hot. Please see this thread for that info. I followed the external discussion to the Charger Forum for thier description of the fix applied to the Charger.

It reads as
To make the cigarette lighter connector be "hot" even with the car off go to the Fuse Box in your trunk and open it. (It's located in the spare tire well.) When you open the fuse box, look on the inside of the lid and you will see a numbered layout of the fuses. Look for Fuse #18 wih the letters "IGN" (Ignition) printed on the plastic right below it. It will be a bright yellow 20-amp fuse that is offset from the other 4 or 5 in it's row. Unplug it, and plug it into the the first two holes so that it is in line with the rest of the fuses in that little row (undo its offset). Now your cigarette lighter in the ashtray will be powered at all times. The best part about this fuse, is that when you place it in the "Always On" block, it frees up an accessory connection that you can use for a "Remote Wire" connection for something like an amplifier since there isn't one comming off of the head unit on our stock radios.
Looking at the schematic for the Caliber, it would seem that there are two different fuses for the Ignition Switch (16 that has a 16 Amp fuse, and 12 that has a 20 Amp fuse). I'll have to locate the fuze box tomorrow and see if one or the other has a "step-off" position.

Tyke
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

That little paragraph really helped! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

I opened the lid to the fuse block and noticed that there was one labeled 'IGN BAT"



So, I thought that if I used the same concept as was discussed for the Charger, I should get constant power.



Just for the record...nothing changed. The cigarette lighter plug still diminishes after the key is removed. In fact, I can't find any change in electrical power after moving the fuze to position 1-2 from 2-3.

Looks like I'm beating a dead horse. giddy-up.

Tyke
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

I tried that as well...with the same results- nothing. I'm praying someone finds a simple solution to this soon.
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

If someone is in the Chicago area, I could find a solution. I just need a Caliber.
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Damn that sucks..try the big green one on the bottom, looks like theres a slot a little lower that might work from the pic. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

caliber4whoosh said:
Damn that sucks..try the big green one on the bottom, looks like theres a slot a little lower that might work from the pic. :(
Nah, that's where the lid connects to the casing.

Tyke
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Oh, ok...damn...:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Reading is fundamental...

I keep reading through this manual in hopes of finding the golden nugget. I can't say that I've found it yet, but I did stumble across a few crumbs.

Has anyone got a rear cargo area power outlet? Did you know that to have one is an option? It's late for me and I won't be able to get to looking for another 18 hours or so. I've linked my excerpt of the manual. Take a read and when you're able, take a look at your vehicle.

Tyke
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Interesting reading.

That link also says that the 12V outlet in the front is a constant 12V. I'm actually planning on putting an outlet in the back anyways.

Has anyone managed to solve this one? I was planning on just using a fuse-tap to wire my "always on" outlets, but if somebody has found a better solution Ii'd like to hear it.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Tigerr said:
Interesting reading.

... if somebody has found a better solution Ii'd like to hear it.

Thanks.
No solution has been offered. If the one you're talking works, please post the procedure/process coupled with pictures.

Thanks

Tyke
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Ahh finally found the golden nugget :) . Was looking at new PT's the other day and noticed that they have a nearly identical fuse box to the Caliber, but the cig lighter is controlled by the "2 position fuse" in the fuse box (put it in one way that says IGN and the lighter is powered only with the key in run/accessory, but it in BAT and it's on all the time.)

So after finding some helpful folks and looking through the PT and Caliber service manuals, here's what I got:

-- The 12V power feed for the in-dash power outlet is in "cavity 21" of the black 22-way connector for the underhood fuse block. This is the black "big" connector on the back.
-- On the PT, the power feed is in "cavity 14" of the grey connector on the back of the fuse block. (this cavity is conspicuously empty on the Caliber).

So all you have to do is pull the pink/black power feed out of cavity 21 on the black connector, pull it back/out of the wire loom a bit, and plug it into cavity 14 on the grey connector. Tried it out and it worked like a charm. Put the fuse (Fuse 11?) in the "Batt" position and you get constant power. Put it in the "Ign" position and you only have power with ignition (it even keeps the key-off power delay!).

Worked on the 1 car we tried it on, but I can't guarantee anything. All we used was a pair of pliers to pull the white "lock" out of the connector, and a narrow pin to remove the terminal..... Probably ought to disconnect the battery before you mess with it.... Anyone else want to try and let us know??

Looking into the end of the connector with the release tab thing up, the pin numbers are something like this, the red cavities are the ones you care about. Note that you'll need to swap from the Black connector into the Grey connector!
 

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Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

ok, i totaly want to do this. but i'm hoping i can get you to do this one thing for me first... take detailed pictures of how you did this with step by step instructions so that a five yearold could do it... then i'll do it... can we somehow do this for the radio too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Tito said:
Ahh finally found the golden nugget :) . ... here's what I got:

-- The 12V power feed for the in-dash power outlet is in "cavity 21" of the black 22-way connector for the underhood fuse block. This is the black "big" connector on the back.
-- On the PT, the power feed is in "cavity 14" of the grey connector on the back of the fuse block. (this cavity is conspicuously empty on the Caliber).

So all you have to do is pull the pink/black power feed out of cavity 21 on the black connector, pull it back/out of the wire loom a bit, and plug it into cavity 14 on the grey connector. Tried it out and it worked like a charm. Put the fuse (Fuse 11?) in the "Batt" position and you get constant power. Put it in the "Ign" position and you only have power with ignition (it even keeps the key-off power delay!).

....

Looking into the end of the connector with the release tab thing up, the pin numbers are something like this, the red cavities are the ones you care about. Note that you'll need to swap from the Black connector into the Grey connector!
Without sounding too much as the dunce, I just don't get it. I'll have to put my head under the hood tomorrow and see what you're describing. Is the "big black connector" part of the fuse block? Does cavity refer to a pin position or a fuse position? Any pictures?

Thanks ...and excuse my questions. I'm really trying to get a grip on the solution.

Tyke
 
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