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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't seem to make this happen on my own. I am seeking earnest help. I've pulled the necessary pages on the wiring layout...but it's Greek to me. Someone here knows how to interpret this to our advantage.

Bottom Line
We need the accessory plug (cigarette lighter) to remain hot even if the key isn't in the ignition. Please see attached PDF document (link).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

RobMR3 said:
You can do it. Cut the power wire ... Either that or find fuse 16 in the fuse panel, and the hot wire coming into fuse 16, splice that one into a constant power. That way the circuit will still be protected and look stock. If I had the car in front of me, I could do it in about 20.
Yikes, I guess I was looking for a way of doing this without making wire cuts and splices. I appreciate your response...not quite what I was looking for at the time.

I know this subject has come up in other threads; however, no real solution has been established specifically for the Caliber. On a previous vehicle I owned, there was no cutting of wires. The solution was to jumper a module plug-in. My hopes was that a schematic reader would recognize something like that with respect to the Caliber.

With that in mind, can you see another way of making it happen RobMR3.

Thanks

Tyke
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

I made sure that I had all my ducks in a row....so I looked up the previous discussion on making the plug hot. Please see this thread for that info. I followed the external discussion to the Charger Forum for thier description of the fix applied to the Charger.

It reads as
To make the cigarette lighter connector be "hot" even with the car off go to the Fuse Box in your trunk and open it. (It's located in the spare tire well.) When you open the fuse box, look on the inside of the lid and you will see a numbered layout of the fuses. Look for Fuse #18 wih the letters "IGN" (Ignition) printed on the plastic right below it. It will be a bright yellow 20-amp fuse that is offset from the other 4 or 5 in it's row. Unplug it, and plug it into the the first two holes so that it is in line with the rest of the fuses in that little row (undo its offset). Now your cigarette lighter in the ashtray will be powered at all times. The best part about this fuse, is that when you place it in the "Always On" block, it frees up an accessory connection that you can use for a "Remote Wire" connection for something like an amplifier since there isn't one comming off of the head unit on our stock radios.
Looking at the schematic for the Caliber, it would seem that there are two different fuses for the Ignition Switch (16 that has a 16 Amp fuse, and 12 that has a 20 Amp fuse). I'll have to locate the fuze box tomorrow and see if one or the other has a "step-off" position.

Tyke
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

I opened the lid to the fuse block and noticed that there was one labeled 'IGN BAT"



So, I thought that if I used the same concept as was discussed for the Charger, I should get constant power.



Just for the record...nothing changed. The cigarette lighter plug still diminishes after the key is removed. In fact, I can't find any change in electrical power after moving the fuze to position 1-2 from 2-3.

Looks like I'm beating a dead horse. giddy-up.

Tyke
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

caliber4whoosh said:
Damn that sucks..try the big green one on the bottom, looks like theres a slot a little lower that might work from the pic. :(
Nah, that's where the lid connects to the casing.

Tyke
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Reading is fundamental...

I keep reading through this manual in hopes of finding the golden nugget. I can't say that I've found it yet, but I did stumble across a few crumbs.

Has anyone got a rear cargo area power outlet? Did you know that to have one is an option? It's late for me and I won't be able to get to looking for another 18 hours or so. I've linked my excerpt of the manual. Take a read and when you're able, take a look at your vehicle.

Tyke
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Tigerr said:
Interesting reading.

... if somebody has found a better solution Ii'd like to hear it.

Thanks.
No solution has been offered. If the one you're talking works, please post the procedure/process coupled with pictures.

Thanks

Tyke
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

Tito said:
Ahh finally found the golden nugget :) . ... here's what I got:

-- The 12V power feed for the in-dash power outlet is in "cavity 21" of the black 22-way connector for the underhood fuse block. This is the black "big" connector on the back.
-- On the PT, the power feed is in "cavity 14" of the grey connector on the back of the fuse block. (this cavity is conspicuously empty on the Caliber).

So all you have to do is pull the pink/black power feed out of cavity 21 on the black connector, pull it back/out of the wire loom a bit, and plug it into cavity 14 on the grey connector. Tried it out and it worked like a charm. Put the fuse (Fuse 11?) in the "Batt" position and you get constant power. Put it in the "Ign" position and you only have power with ignition (it even keeps the key-off power delay!).

....

Looking into the end of the connector with the release tab thing up, the pin numbers are something like this, the red cavities are the ones you care about. Note that you'll need to swap from the Black connector into the Grey connector!
Without sounding too much as the dunce, I just don't get it. I'll have to put my head under the hood tomorrow and see what you're describing. Is the "big black connector" part of the fuse block? Does cavity refer to a pin position or a fuse position? Any pictures?

Thanks ...and excuse my questions. I'm really trying to get a grip on the solution.

Tyke
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

I wish it were that easy. I looked and there are three large connectors around the fuse box. I was a bit rushed when I peeked, but maybe one of them plugs to the front of the box (i.e., towards front end, furthest away from fire wall). Pictures with annotations would be great.
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.....edit....
.
I went out and took a few more pictures of the fuse box assembly. I have a better understanding, but I haven't got all the details yet. I'm adding pictures that give the process of removing the fuse box...at least lifting it up a bit. Beyond that, I am still not fully versed in this suggested fix.






Tyke
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Re: Hot-Wired Accessory Plug

donsmith said:
(I posted a version of this message in another thread on this subject, but replicate here in case it helps someone.)

I did the accessory mod you see two posts up. My method may be a little easier. No soldering. No destroying a fuse. In fact, you make use of the fuse you pull out.
...I'm writing this from work and have no pictures, but you can get the idea looking at the picture provided just two posts above this one.
...After three days no ill effects. The accessory port is now full-time. I put a ham radio walkie talkie on charge for hours while the car sat in the garage and again later I let the ham radio charge all afternoon while at work.
donsmith, when you can, please post pic of final product. I can follow your writing, but would like to see the work.

Thanks for sticking with it.

Tyke
 
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