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HOW-TO: Illuminated Window Switches

55307 Views 176 Replies 40 Participants Last post by  WookiesrPpl
8
*Update* There are two procedures for this process now.
For the 2007 to 2009 Calibers, the part numbers and instructions are below.
For the 2010-2012 Calibers, the how-to (although similar) starts here: 2010-2012 Instructions and Part Numbers


2007-2009 Part Numbers:
Driver's Door Part Number: 04602780AA
All other doors: 04602787AA (x3)

(From a Dodge Charger)

Plug and play too! No more having to take electronics apart! :bigthumb:





Driver's Door Part Number: 04602780AA
All other doors: 04602787AA (x3)

(From a Dodge Charger)

Step One: Pop off the screw cap, and remove screw in the pull cup



Step Two:

Slowly, and carefully, start to remove the bolster. I found its best to start around the middle of the top of the bolster with something that won't gouge up the plastic. Once its started, work your hand around, and pull the rest of the clips out. The bolster is still attached to the door by a couple of supports, so you don't have to worry about dropping it.





Step Three:

Carefully peel back the foam surrounding the plugs underneath. (The green tape is what i did, when i took them off before to paint my arm rest areas on my doors.)



Step Four:

Unplug the connectors



Step Five:

Carefully remove the switches from their places. I think that they all have about 6 tabs holding them to the bolster.

New (Left) VS. Factory (Right)



Step Six:

Plug in the new switch, to make sure it works. (when you test the switches in the passenger door, make sure that those widows are not locked out by the master switch, as I found out the hard way, when the other windows are locked out, their lights are off) Then follow the above steps in reverse order, and repeat for each door.
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hm... so once chance is the challengerswitch?!

mmh.... next project...
;)
hm... so once chance is the challengerswitch?!

mmh.... next project...
;)
Do it!! :rocker:
I could really care less about auto down - I find it annoying sometimes even on my drivers side...

just had my parts guy check and the driver side switch is backordered but the rest are in stock..hmmmm
I could really care less about auto down - I find it annoying sometimes even on my drivers side...

just had my parts guy check and the driver side switch is backordered but the rest are in stock..hmmmm
oh, well in that case take the part numbers from the first post and go order them!

i haven't had any problems with mine yet, and i love them
UN4 - In your first post you said

(when you test the switches in the passenger door, make sure that those widows are not locked out by the master switch, as I found out the hard way, when the other windows are locked out, their lights are off)

Where is this Master switch? and if they are locked out, how do you unlock them?

Thanks,

Collector-X
UN4 - In your first post you said

(when you test the switches in the passenger door, make sure that those widows are not locked out by the master switch, as I found out the hard way, when the other windows are locked out, their lights are off)

Where is this Master switch? and if they are locked out, how do you unlock them?

Thanks,

Collector-X
He's referring to the passenger/rear window lockout button the the drivers side switch.
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UN4 - In your first post you said

(when you test the switches in the passenger door, make sure that those widows are not locked out by the master switch, as I found out the hard way, when the other windows are locked out, their lights are off)

Where is this Master switch? and if they are locked out, how do you unlock them?

Thanks,

Collector-X
Just like bruce said, the drivers door switch has a window lock out switch, make sure that its not locking out the other windows.

:bigthumb:
I just ordered a Sebring driver module to do the swap... I drove one a couple of weeks ago and it did look so similar... somebody told me that the Avenger/Sebring are high speed CAN, and that's the reason the switch might not work... now that I read about the connector I'm so frustrated... I'll try to swap one switch, but I'm foreseeing soldering issues...
does anyone who has done the swap have their old switches for sale?
Any chance that the switches come in red lighting?
Just green-ish

if you want red, you're better off modifying your stock ones IMO
Just did the mod to my front switches, UN4GTBL we are in your debt!! I'm so pleased with this, especially as I do a lot of night driving. Thanks!
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Illuminated Window Switches

I thought I saw that p/n # 04602781AA would work on the drivers door but it has a different connector than the original one so it doesn't fit. I guess that I need 04602780AA instead
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Just did the mod to my front switches, UN4GTBL we are in your debt!! I'm so pleased with this, especially as I do a lot of night driving. Thanks!
Welcome back stranger!

Glad it helped :bigthumb:

I thought I saw that p/n # 04602781AA would work on the drivers door but it has a different connector than the original one so it doesn't fit. I guess that I need 04602780AA instead
Yeah thats the avenger auto up & down switch, we figured out that doesn't work
Wow, i can't believe that its been a year since i did this!

:bump: for new members
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I just did this - took an hour start to finish, and that included driving to the Dealer to pickup the new switches, so 20-30 minutes total labor on car.

Total cost $76.00 for all 4 switches.
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I just did this - took an hour start to finish, and that included driving to the Dealer to pickup the new switches, so 20-30 minutes total labor on car.

Total cost $76.00 for all 4 switches.
Great :bigthumb:
Has there been a confirmed double auto down switch that works as a replacement for the driver side switch?
Has there been a confirmed double auto down switch that works as a replacement for the driver side switch?
Not as of yet.
Im picking up my SRT-4 in a week and a half. Looks like I need to add this to the list of things to do! (list is getting long already, MS1 already ordered)
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