HOW-TO: Illuminated Window Switches

So, was actually able to get at this today. Got home earlier than expected from our little trip, so I decided to knock it out and get it done with. Also, got a little lucky. Was walking through Meijers last night and just happened to glance over at the cameras and whatta ya know...they were having a 50% clearance...so yeah. Was able to pick up a good camera cheap to replace the one that hasn't worked for the last few years...

As for the job itself, I should have paid attention. After getting the front passenger side off and taking the switch out, I noticed the replacement one was a little small...The 2010 Mainstreet ( and I`m guessing the other models that have power doors) have the power door lock switches on it as well compared to your earlier year model ones with just the window switch only. So back in went the OE switch. The drivers side is the same as the older one and worked like a charm. There were a few minor differences in the newer model as to how they were built. You`ll see in the pics. Other than that, overall pretty much the same.

I`ll write up a small how-to for the experience.

I`m going to copy parts of UN4GTBL`s post and change/modify it to update for the 2010+ Calibers to make it similar and easier.

As mentioned above, for the 2010+ Calibers, you will need 3 types of switches. 1 Drivers side, 1 Front passenger side, and 2 Back passenger switches. When I find out what the part # for the front passenger door is, I`ll edit it in at that point.

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Part Numbers:
Driver's Door Part Number: 04602780AA
Front Passenger Door: Unknown yet - new for 2010+
Back Passenger Doors: 04602787AA (x2)



Step One: Pop up the screw cap cover, and remove screw in the pull cup. -The 2010+ have new screw cap covers and also, the "handle" area is now "separate" from where the switch is as compared to earlier year models. The cover has a "snap-in" latch on the end of the right side that snaps in when you press/close it and is much bigger than earlier year model cap covers. Fingernail didn`t work for me so I took a very small flathead screwdriver and pried it up in the middle in the crease nearest you. Be VERY careful and gentle so as not to dent/damage the plastic.







Step Two: Slowly, and carefully, start to remove the bolster. I found its best to start around the middle of the top of the bolster with something that won't gouge up the plastic. Once its started, work your hand around, and pull the rest of the clips out. The bolster is still attached to the door by a couple of supports, so you don't have to worry about dropping it. -This is where you need the most patience. If you can, get some plastic door panel tools to make this easier. I highly recommend it. Just slowly try to finagle them out. This will take up the majority of your time. The worst for me were the clips on the side towards the door opening. Oh, if you watch closely and look at the clips themselves as you are doing this, you`ll notice how they latch in and then take that knowledge when trying to wiggle them out. This helps some if you can figure the trick to them.


Step Three: Carefully peel back the foam surrounding the plugs underneath. -Pretty much the same as earlier models. A tad different in look but the same overall.



Step Four: Unplug the connectors. -Same for all years.


Step Five: Carefully remove the switches from their places. I think that they all have about 6 tabs holding them to the bolster. -Same for all years.


Step Six: Plug in the new switch, to make sure it works. (when you test the switches in the passenger door, make sure that those windows are not locked out by the master switch, as I found out the hard way, when the other windows are locked out, their lights are off). Then follow the above steps in reverse order, and repeat for each door. -Same for all years.