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Hi, i have 07 caliber with 80k miles, i just recently bought the car and it seems to have a problem. Whenever i drive over a bump or something like that we hear a knocking noise around the right front tire,and probably on the other too.does anyone knows about this situation?:scared:
 

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Could be multiple things, control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends.

Unfortunately(for now anyway) the control arm bushings are non-replaceable, and require replacing the entire control arm. The ball joint is replaceable however. Tie rod ends are cheap, and easy to do on your own if you have some mechanical knowledge.

Unfortunately, the suspension is a weak point for the caliber. For some reason, it likes to chew through control arms, moreso than anything else.

I had my control arms replaced about a month ago on my 2008 with 26k miles(at the time)
 

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Hi, i have 07 caliber with 80k miles, i just recently bought the car and it seems to have a problem. Whenever i drive over a bump or something like that we hear a knocking noise around the right front tire,and probably on the other too.does anyone knows about this situation?:scared:
Try torquing all the front end bolts to spec, this seems to rectify alot of problems, pay special attention to the LCA bolts and axel nuts
 

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Discussion Starter #4
caliber

Thanks for the tips,Im still taking it to a mechanic to see whats going on, i just hope the car dont brake in half or something like that lol.I know only the basics about cars,so ill keep in touch with you guys,thanks again.
 

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Check the LCA Bolts, and the Subframe Bolts.

If you see the Subframe Bolts are loose... then you might want to get an alignment to make sure everything is within spec.
 

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Plz post what results u find, I have a 2010 with 40k and it does the same exact thing, I thin that its going to fall apart one day, and in the mornings it seems to be worse! I think its like an old man and mones groans and creaks in the morning.
 

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Plz post what results u find, I have a 2010 with 40k and it does the same exact thing, I thin that its going to fall apart one day, and in the mornings it seems to be worse! I think its like an old man and mones groans and creaks in the morning.

Could be a number of things, and it seems like every case its something different. If you have some suspension noises, and are able to check things out for yourself, tie rods are the first thing i always check, as they are the "cheapest" part to replace first. Struts can go bad, control arms, ball joints, etc etc.
 

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I just wanted to post that I spoke to my local Dodge Dealer Service department person and told him about my problem and that I have been on a couple of forums with several people complaining about this problem and he said that he has worked for chrysler for 17 years and has never heard of this problem with any chrysler vehicles or dodge calibers! Like we are making it up! And sadly I found out my car used to be a enterpize rental car :(
 

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I just wanted to post that I spoke to my local Dodge Dealer Service department person and told him about my problem and that I have been on a couple of forums with several people complaining about this problem and he said that he has worked for chrysler for 17 years and has never heard of this problem with any chrysler vehicles or dodge calibers! Like we are making it up! And sadly I found out my car used to be a enterpize rental car :(

Dont read into this the wrong way, but are you a girl?

If so, then they probably disregard pretty much anything you say, just because of that. Sad, but true.

When i took my car to the dealer, they immediately told me it was the control arms, and that its a common problem with the Caliber. A LOT of people on this forum, and others, have had theirs replaced under warranty, some people even twice under warranty.

The dealer also knows me VERY well, and knows how meticulous i am with my car.
 

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I have replaced my passenger Lower Control Arm and will be doing the Driver side within the next week or two.

If you get a knocking sound when hitting a bump, it's generally the control arm(s) bushings. This means a LCA replacement.
If you hear a clicking sound when accelerating or deaccelerating, it's possibly your axle bolts need to be torqued to spec.

As Sunburst mentioned, it could be a few other things, but that is probably the most common.

If you are bringing the car in for warranty work, have them check your tie-rods as well. These are a common Dodge wear part.
 

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I just wanted to post that I spoke to my local Dodge Dealer Service department person and told him about my problem and that I have been on a couple of forums with several people complaining about this problem and he said that he has worked for chrysler for 17 years and has never heard of this problem with any chrysler vehicles or dodge calibers! Like we are making it up! And sadly I found out my car used to be a enterpize rental car :(
Wow. I hate people like that.

Do you have any other dealers around you could go to.

Did the seller disclose that it was a rental car at the time of selling it to you? Where did you buy it?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
wow, a lot of info, ok so what if you take your caliber to a shop,how much it would be like the control arm(s) and labor?
 

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wow, a lot of info, ok so what if you take your caliber to a shop,how much it would be like the control arm(s) and labor?
That is completely dependent of the shop. You can buy the control arms online for about 150 bucks per control arm(not including shipping). From there, its whatever their hourly rate is(by me, varies from 60-100+ per hour).

Im not sure what the book time is on replacing control arms, but i would assume it would take 1-3 hours per side, depending on how quick they work and how hard it is to remove in case of rusted bolts and such.

As a DIY project, it could be done for 3-350 bucks. Taking it to a shop, i would guestimate somewhere around 5-700 bucks(including parts).
 

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That is completely dependent of the shop. You can buy the control arms online for about 150 bucks per control arm(not including shipping). From there, its whatever their hourly rate is(by me, varies from 60-100+ per hour).

Im not sure what the book time is on replacing control arms, but i would assume it would take 1-3 hours per side, depending on how quick they work and how hard it is to remove in case of rusted bolts and such.

As a DIY project, it could be done for 3-350 bucks. Taking it to a shop, i would guestimate somewhere around 5-700 bucks(including parts).
and mine have been replaced at least twice...and then you add on the "canada" surcharge and taxes, and I've just about paid for my entire warranty...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hmm, interesting.well maybe next time ill go for a cheap chevy car, because this deal with the calibers, i dont like it at all, i wonder if the charger and challenger have this kind of problems.
 

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hmm, interesting.well maybe next time ill go for a cheap chevy car, because this deal with the calibers, i dont like it at all, i wonder if the charger and challenger have this kind of problems.
Apparently the LX cars have had LCA issues as well.

We can all thank mercedes for the unnecessary cost cutting on these cars.
 

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My wife's Caliber is an '07 and has a knocking noise from the front, as well.
It has 90k on it. Took it to a local shop and was told the sway bar end links were shot. He suggested replacing them and the grommets to boot. Ordered the parts from RockAuto... End Links were US$19/ea. and the grommets were US$4... With shipping, it was US$30. Now, I need to find the time to replace them.. Will post if this resolves.

It's amazing... Either it's poor quality component's or bad engineering... I have replaced the lower ball joints in both our Calibers and the outer tie rods in mine. Now sway bar end links. My suggestion, when you do one thing, do them all... end links, ball joints and tie rod ends. Could get costly, but at least you're assured upgraded quality parts.

BTW - All components I have replaced have been replaced with MOOG and these seem to be great quality components.

Good Luck and please post what your resolution is.
 

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07 Caliber noisy suspension at every bump

Try torquing all the front end bolts to spec, this seems to rectify alot of problems, pay special attention to the LCA bolts and axel nuts
My Sons 07 Caliber noisy suspension at every bump in the road proved to be the stabilizer links, I could not see movement in the end of the link, but rocking the car, the metal to metal clunking could be felt at the end of the link. Also a bouncing thud at every road bump was the muffler heat shield had fallen from its upper mounting,( I used some larger fender washers as the original mounting nuts pulled through the holes) and was dancing on the top of the muffler.
 

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Hi, i have 07 caliber with 80k miles, i just recently bought the car and it seems to have a problem. Whenever i drive over a bump or something like that we hear a knocking noise around the right front tire,and probably on the other too.does anyone knows about this situation?:scared:
I have replaced everything suspension and steering wise front and rear including struts, control arms with ball joints, bearings, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links, cv shafts, and was still getting the noise ended up being sway bar bushings which also led to subframe. About $600 and many hours and swear words later finally have a quiet caliber for the first time since I bought it. I've got the manual sxt great car and worth keeping now hard part is pinpointing the problem
 
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