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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I got my cali, I opted not to get any of the upgraded stereo system components, because I enjoy doing my own audio installs. However, all the audio installs I've done in the past have been with the assistance of a Haynes manual!! LOL! But anyway, I was curious if anyone had advice on where to run the lines for an amplifier. I would most likely be putting it under the driver's seat. What I'm most curious about is how to get the hot line through the firewall! Hopefully when I start pulling the dash apart, the RCA line won't be too difficult to route. As far as my head unit, I hope that whole thing with splicing the yellow line into the 12v isn't going to be terribly difficult. I'm no pro or anything, but I do know a few things from installing my friends' audio stuff, and I look at this as a bit of a challenge. I kind of miss my old Escort's trim; everything just had screws!! Any advice is greatly appreciated!!:p
 

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Well I put together a tutorial on installing the nav radio and you might find it pretty useful. as far as other wires, just take your time. Our car is super easy to run a +12VDC wire through the firewall as it is designed to be either a manual or an auto and if you have an auto then just pop it through a knockout for the clutch cable. If you do have a manual, I am sorry i dont' have a definitive answer for you but there are knockouts all over hte firewall, you just have to find them. Take the time to do that and DO NOT drill through your firewall. That is a bad excuse for terrible stuff to happen.

As for routing the wires, if you are goign to mount the amps in the back, run the +12VDC down the drivers side along the wire harness for the fuel pump and all the stuff and the signal wires down the other. This will help with interference and static. Make sure you wrap all the wires together and then wrap them to the other wires in the harness. This is to keep them from rubbing on each other and wearing through the insulation.

If you are going to replace the wiring to the speakers, take the time to braid it with a grounding wire or buy some stuff that has a grounding wire. The reason I say this is that unless you are running 500W to each speaker, the only real reason to replace the wiring is for sound quality. When doign this, use the old wires to pull them through the boot in the door jam. Solder the two together and put them through one at a time. after they are in there, solder them to the speaker. Don't waste your time with those crappy spade connectors, they only raise the impedence in the line and can casue distortion.

As for the lowend on the sound stage, make sure you have enough current going to the amp. THis means start big on from the battery and work your way down. Is the alternator up to the challenge, is the battery, is the power cable, distribution block and so on. Also, make sure you properly secure it so in the unfortunate event you are in an accident, it doesn't move aroudn the cabin and hurt or kill someone as they weigh a lot more than people think and 100 pounds moving at 60 miles an hours will have the initial impact of something that weighs an aweful lot more heavy.

Good luck with the install and I think I speak on behalf of everyone when I say we're glad you bought a cali.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks a million for all the info!! It's great to hear that there are already spaces in the firewall for some wires, because as far as I go, making new holes in the firewall is NEVER an option! I have the auto, so like you said, using the clutch knockout sounds like my best option. I'm most likely going to wire my amp up under my driver's seat. That's where I used to have it in the Escort. I'm just wondering how I'm gonna get the RCA to it without letting too much be exposed. The center console has a break in it where its just carpet, so it's probably going to be a bit trickier to make this all clean looking. I guess my biggest concern is that as of yet, there is still no Caliber specific wiring harness, and I'm a little wary about splicing into the 12v power jack. It just sounds like it might cause me some trouble. I'm just hoping my job gives me a break soon so I can actually get a chance to look at it!!:p But hey, overtime helps pay for the extra goodies!!:D Thanks again for the tips!
 

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don't worry about the harness too much
the standard 02+ chrysler harness works, you just lose accessory
then there is a new scosche harness DCCR03SRB
a bit pricey, but retains switched at the radio, as well as the databus wires for the amplified systems
 

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I'd love to change out my stereo for the nav radio. It's just too dang expensive at about $1000 on ebay.

RCompart, can you send your notes on the matter in case I get lucky and find one affordable? I assume it will work fine with my UConnect and Sirius.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hessian, not sure what you meant when you said that it'll loose accessory. Do you mean nothing at all will work when the key is at the accessory spot, or do you mean that the radio will only work when the key is ON? How difficult is it to get that yellow wire hooked up, anyway? I talked to someone at Best Buy just the other day, and he said they usually wire it up to the ignition, but honestly, that scares me! Never dealt with one like this before, so I want to be REALLY careful!!:D
 

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There is no ignition wire on our cars. The CAN-Bus tell the radio to "turn on". I'm working on gettign some stuff put together for orderign those bezels Huff. They are export only adn the only reason I was able to get mine was that it was reclassed as something else. Not sure how the parts guy did it. I'm gonna pull it all apart tonight and take pictures though and i'll make a thread for everyone with all the info. Hope you get it and they don't turn it around. I ordered mine back in April so that was 4 months ago and it was a pain getting it then. I think only people in EU are supposed to be able to have that radio. Who knows.
 

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Just hook it to the cig lighter!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hooking it to the lighter won't screw anything else up, right? And there must be two wires there, so which is the right one?
 

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no it wont mess anything up. If you get the same wiring kit I did it will be a burgandy wire you will need to hook that wire to the red wire at the cig lighter. Go to circuit city and get the wiring harness that you dont have to cut any wires everything is just plug and play. If you do get that kit the only wire you will have to cut is the burgandy wire! That kit is $24 I think is what I paid. Also instead of screws alot of the trim pieces if you just pull they pop out. They have a metal piece attached that latches it into a slot. Be careful though they do still have screws!
 
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