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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, just wondering about the Mopar CAI. I'm from Ontario, Canada and wondering about the availability. I asked my dealer and he said there are no "performance" parts for the 2007 Caliber yet.

I'm just looking for the cost and such. Would I be better off just waiting until AEM or Reactive come out with one?

Thanks.
 

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YES!!! just wait it out... once we start getting parts... it's gonna be like the neons are now...
 

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CAIs have earned a bad reputation because of companies like Ractive who design it to just look pretty.

Time for a lesson!

These formulas are theoretical, real life factors may raise or lower the numbers you get from these formulas. So first lets find out how much of a filter our engines need.

CFM= Cubic Inches x given RPM / 3456

It's 122 cubic inches, correct? 211.8 CFM at 6,000 RPM, 70.6 CFM at 2,000 RPM.

So now we need to find out the effective area of a filter and what CFM said filter will give us with a cotton gauss media:

Effective Filter Area = (Length - .75) x Height x ?
Cotton Gauss Flow = 6.03 CFM per Sq/In

A 6" long tapered conical cotton gauss filter with a 3" flange would be more than sufficient breathing for the 2.0L. There is such a thing as too much filter media.
 

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However, the amount of air you are getting is not the only benefit of a CAI.

Colder air is more dense than hot air. By pulling air from the fender or further forward in the engine bay (where fresher, cooler air is), you can "pack" more air into the combustion chamber.

This denser air at say 70 degrees will expand much more than air that started around 120 degrees. The air is heated the same amount when used in combustion, so you essentially have more air in the combustion.

Now a tune/computer can dictate whether this will result in performance or increased gas mileage. If you can spray less fuel per cycle, you will save gas in the long run.
 

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Hey everyone, if you want a CAI do yourself a favor and go to home depot. Yes that right, Home Depot, the big orange do it yourself store. Figure out some bends, and pipe length to get a filter in a good cold air stream, Buy yourself some PVC pipe, and some elbows, get yourself a chep-o filter from EBay, BAM there is your CAI....
 

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gsx rated98, you obviously have no clue to the long term effects of underhood temps on PVC. PVC will deform and fail.
 

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who said anything about PVC? use the metal dryer tubing.. that works proven fact....
 

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Darnice said:
gsx rated98, you obviously have no clue to the long term effects of underhood temps on PVC. PVC will deform and fail.
Seeing as to how i use it in a turbo charged motor, im very well the aplication of PVC, and the effects of what can happen to plastic. And if routed properly it will work just fine.

As stated above, you can use dryer hose as well, but does create turbulance issues because its not smooth.
 

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gsx rated98 said:
Seeing as to how i use it in a turbo charged motor, im very well the aplication of PVC, and the effects of what can happen to plastic. And if routed properly it will work just fine.

As stated above, you can use dryer hose as well, but does create turbulance issues because its not smooth.
lol thats a great idea, except I wouldn't be able to open my hood in front of anyone without feelin like a nut;). Thats like using a coat hanger for an antenna LOL!

Half the fun is the way it looks.
 

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Ok, so just got back from a dealer, and got my first real good look at the caliber. After looking under the engine, i dont see using PVC as a good way to make a CAI.

Maybe ill figure it out when i finally get one, but we shall see....
 

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PVC....lol
just spend $100 on ebay... buy a universal aluminum piping kit and make an intake yourself. just tap your holes for sensor and breather... no big thang...
 

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I would go with the wait for a solid name brand approach... tube design, look, installation instructions, warranty and a good filter are all nice.

I can't speak for the Caliber, but on the Matrix XRS the Injen (which i had) out dynno'd the Cosmo, AEM and TRD CAI's however the filter on the Cosmo and AEM suck and if you were to replace it with a K&N that might make them comparable....

Perhaps this was only a matrix issue, but the other concern with CAI's on the matrix at least was hydro lock where a few owners went through big puddles and the CAI sucked in water and locked the engine... makes the short ram seem more appealing when you don't have to tippy toe around when it rains
 

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Considering the operating temperature of PVC and the fact it gives off toxic fumes when it reaches not even the operating temperature of a naturally aspirated motor, let alone a turbocharged one, go for it. A great comedian once said, "This is a solution, it's called natural selection, it's the bottom of the ****ing food chain,". Go for it, kill yourself, kill your parents and kill all of your friends that believe you and the world will thank you.

Though his idea is not too far off from a home-made solution, yes figure out the lengths, diameters and bends you need. Then go to Summit Racing or Jegs and order mandrel bent exhaust pipe in the diameter, length and angle you need. Weld it together or use some couplings and then have someone coat it to prevent heat soak.

Though designing a cold air intake that actually functions is far more complicated than finding a route to the fender well. First determine the pipe diameter:


Where:​
  • Displacement is in litres
  • VE = Volumetric efficiency as a decimal
  • V = maximum intake velocity (180 ft/s is a good figure to use)
Since the VE of an engine rarely ever reaches 100% from the factory, rule of thumb is usually 85% for a real world figure. You total that up and you find that not a 3" diameter pipe is best, but rather 1.75" to 1.8" diameter pipe.

Now for length, rule of thumb is 7" length at 10,000 RPMs plus 1.7" for every reduction of 1,000 RPMs. Tuning the cold air intake for 5,000 RPMs would place the length at 15.5" and at 4,000 RPMs, 17.2".

A cold air intake should be an EXTENSION of your intake runners, optimizing velocity of the air charge, while taking advantage of the denser charge from the colder air.

Though a word of caution, with the recent enactment of the 8yr/80,000 mile emissions warranty extension, alot of manufacturers have switched to rich-running engines to prolong catalytic converter life to prevent warranty claims before that time is up. Thus by installing CAIs on these rich-running vehicles causes a Check Engine Light that has recently plagued Mazda and it's not the CAI manufacturer's design fault, because K&N, AEM, Injen and the rest tried to prevent CELs and failed. The code it was setting was a lean code, because of the amount of air coming in and offsetting the fuel by such a margin that it caused these CELs. In fact the only company that never recieved a check engine light with their CAI on these Mazdas, included a piggyback that altered the air-fuel ratios and of course also gained 10-15 WHP over Injen, AEM, K&N, et al. At the same time it also costed over twice the amount of Injen, AEM, K&N, etc.
 

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^^ damn, never new it was that technical
 

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has anyone actually installed the Mopar CAI? i am about to order it... i want it... i want more power the second my car gets here i want more power.... also i want to lower it a good inch and a half to 2 inches... but i want coil overs
 
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