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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't think I fully understand the difference between the MS1 and the stock turbo. I was under the impression that the car came stock with the stage 1 (ms1 right?), but after reading some posts, I'm not so sure I believe myself anymore and was hoping that someone could shed some light on the topic for me. Is the stock turbo the same as the stage 1?

Sorry if this has been posted/discussed before, I'm at work right now and cant really spend the time to search.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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OK, that is exactly where I was going wrong... Thought it was a new turbo. Am I correct in assuming this will void the warranty?

-Steven

Technically it does, most dealerships are cool with it though. If I went in for a warranty item I would put the stock PCM back in.
 

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I have had no problems at my dealership with the Mopar Stage 1 they installed and big ole AGP wastegate with K&N intake sitting right with full exhuast and a Wideband stick in there when I had a turbo oil line leak which they nicely fixed under warrenty.

It's not like I had a pistion sticking out the side of the motor or a blown clutch a 15,000 miles.

I have 34,xxx on here now and the dealer is cool and I'm happy.

They do all my oil changes and tire rotations. I think most people run into problems with a major power tran fail and they have never thrown any money to the dealership they are now visting.

I know I'm right because the service writer told me so in a round a bout way. Therefore, I get my oil changed every 3,000 miles by them even when I could go almost 6,000 miles on 1 oil change. Plus, whatever else they want to do.
 

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I have had no problems at my dealership with the Mopar Stage 1 they installed and big ole AGP wastegate with K&N intake sitting right with full exhuast and a Wideband stick in there when I had a turbo oil line leak which they nicely fixed under warrenty.

It's not like I had a pistion sticking out the side of the motor or a blown clutch a 15,000 miles.

I have 34,xxx on here now and the dealer is cool and I'm happy.

They do all my oil changes and tire rotations. I think most people run into problems with a major power tran fail and they have never thrown any money to the dealership they are now visting.

I know I'm right because the service writer told me so in a round a bout way. Therefore, I get my oil changed every 3,000 miles by them even when I could go almost 6,000 miles on 1 oil change. Plus, whatever else they want to do.
There's alot of truth in this statement. They do all my work, outside of routine maintenance, on my 99 Intrepid and the Caliber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My understanding is if the car throws a CEL and the car goes into warranty with specific codes, not sure which codes, the tech has to call Dealer Connect and Dealer Connect voids the warranty, not the specific dealership I took it to. If I simply switch out the ECU prior to taking the car to the dealership, the code will not show up since the codes do not get stored anywhere else, correct?

I know this is off topic but, if I were to stick with the stock ECU and do other upgrades, I can go purchase an OBD2 reader to clear any potential codes, and remove the upgraded parts prior to taking it in for warranty work. This would solve any warranty void issues, correct? The only indication would be turned bolts for example.

Sucks, my dealership doesn't seem as lenient as your dealerships, but then again, I haven't tried any warranty work yet.
 

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I'm not sure that I'm onboard with swapping in the stock PCM in an attempt to fool the techs....there is a mileage difference between what's on the dash and stored in the PCM...so that may be looked at when you bring the car in.

It's obviously a risk to run up the power and hope nothing breaks. Personally, I'll just fix it out of pocket.
 

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I myself am going to hold out for some sort of handheld flash tuner. I'd rather not throw my 8/80 powertrain warranty out the window, esp since I have only 2500 miles!
 

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I had the opportunity to see the wireless version of Starscan in action on a service writer's PC. I had Trouble Codes stored on my PCM that do not show up on my scangauge or trigger a CEL. If you have a Stage 1 PCM installed, the Starscan will show a certain code on the computer. My advice is to get some friends on the inside just in case.
 

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I had the opportunity to see the wireless version of Starscan in action on a service writer's PC. I had Trouble Codes stored on my PCM that do not show up on my scangauge or trigger a CEL. If you have a Stage 1 PCM installed, the Starscan will show a certain code on the computer. My advice is to get some friends on the inside just in case.

Yeah, thats what they have at my dealership as well. All he does is hook up the scan tool and then he goes over to the computer and does his thing. Still need someone to press in the throttle though, thats where I came in.
 

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I've come to a conclusion that I knew would be the case but I entertained many peoples statements to the contrary.

YOU WILL NOT GET ANY BETTER LAUNCH WITH MS1.

I went for some hot runs today and worked on the 0-60 since thats the foundation to a good 1/4. I tried several different RPM, backing off a little after 4k, different lengths of feathering and the end result is the same. The best I could muster was 5.7 with my tires at 32psi.
Granted, if I took the weight out of my car it would be closer to 5.5.
Mind you, I'm not new to drag launches, done it for many many years and have a lot of performance driving training. (Just thought I'd add that before I get the "you need to practice" replies).

The launching part is as usual but once you get to 4k rpm in 1st and 2nd your going to break loose. This may improve in hotter weather when the pavement is sticky.

If you back off a little after 4k you can control the spin but your time suffers. It seems it's better to spin through it and keep the momentum going then it is to back off.

The solution:
I would recommend to anyone to forget about the other upgrades until you get wider tires at least as sticky as the F1's. I knew that if traction was a problem with the stock PCM it was not getting better with more power.
For street driving I would recommend the size I listed earlier for the stock wheels. Any wider will need a new wheel.

I'm not in the business of selling performance mods so this is an unbiased honest opinion. If you don't build the most basic foundation (tires) for this power you will be frustrated every time you go to the track or try a launch. You may make up some of the difference on the back end but you will be no where near the time you should be running.
 

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I've come to a conclusion that I knew would be the case but I entertained many peoples statements to the contrary.

YOU WILL NOT GET ANY BETTER LAUNCH WITH MS1.

I went for some hot runs today and worked on the 0-60 since thats the foundation to a good 1/4. I tried several different RPM, backing off a little after 4k, different lengths of feathering and the end result is the same. The best I could muster was 5.7 with my tires at 32psi.
Granted, if I took the weight out of my car it would be closer to 5.5.
Mind you, I'm not new to drag launches, done it for many many years and have a lot of performance driving training. (Just thought I'd add that before I get the "you need to practice" replies).

The launching part is as usual but once you get to 4k rpm in 1st and 2nd your going to break loose. This may improve in hotter weather when the pavement is sticky.

If you back off a little after 4k you can control the spin but your time suffers. It seems it's better to spin through it and keep the momentum going then it is to back off.

The solution:
I would recommend to anyone to forget about the other upgrades until you get wider tires at least as sticky as the F1's. I knew that if traction was a problem with the stock PCM it was not getting better with more power.
For street driving I would recommend the size I listed earlier for the stock wheels. Any wider will need a new wheel.

Leesrt, I would suggest some practice. This car is by far the easiest I have owned to launch, and it seems you are the only one on here that can't get under 5.7. Even Ishmail from Romania on here could get a 5.5 stock, and he had never even driven a car before the csrt4. Have you considered professional driver training?
 

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Leesrt, I would suggest some practice. This car is by far the easiest I have owned to launch, and it seems you are the only one on here that can't get under 5.7. Even Ishmail from Romania on here could get a 5.5 stock, and he had never even driven a car before the csrt4. Have you considered professional driver training?
:rofl: who the fck is that?
 

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Leesrt, I would suggest some practice. This car is by far the easiest I have owned to launch, and it seems you are the only one on here that can't get under 5.7. Even Ishmail from Romania on here could get a 5.5 stock, and he had never even driven a car before the csrt4. Have you considered professional driver training?
Have you considered reading my post before you reply.
 

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Sarcasm + keyboard = FAIL


I was just kidding, and Ishmail doesn't exist.:jester::bigthumb:
Oh I get it...HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!! :notallthere:
 
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