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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
http://www.caliberforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=177&pictureid=1162



idk if any of these things i just posted above make a picture pop up im still trying to figure that out

but i just put in a new system and it is making my battery light come on while im driving. is there any way i can get fix this with out replacing my alternator with a bigger one or adding a second battery?

i have heard of yellow and red top batterys before could one of these solve my problem?

thanks for your help
 

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http://www.caliberforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=177&pictureid=1162



idk if any of these things i just posted above make a picture pop up im still trying to figure that out

but i just put in a new system and it is making my battery light come on while im driving. is there any way i can get fix this with out replacing my alternator with a bigger one or adding a second battery?

i have heard of yellow and red top batterys before could one of these solve my problem?

thanks for your help
The first thing i would do is either have your battery load tested, or go buy a battery load tester and test it yourself.


If it tests bad, then i would replace it, and i would recommend a yellow top optima battery.


If it doesnt test bad and tests ok, then i would do the "big three" grounding upgrade.

Basically, it involves:

-running a 4awg wire from the negative on your battery to the chassis
-running a 4awg wire from the positive of your battery to the alternator
-running a 4awg wire from the engine block to the chassis


Examples:

block to chassis:










Battery negative to chassis:






And the battery positive to alternator i have not done yet, because im lazy, and havent had the time with work lately.

Also, in the last picture, you will notice two new added grounds, i also grounded my throttle body with 4awg as well :bigthumb:
 

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Thank you for the info. for my knowledge what does the big three wiring acomplish?
Doing the big three allows for better grounding and power delivery. The thicker the wire, the less resistance, and the better the connections will be. Your charging system will work less to keep your battery charged, and thats a good thing

and also where would you connect the positive to on the alternator.
On the alternator, there is already a wire that is run from the positive of your battery to the alternator. There is a bolt that holds that wire onto the alternator, and you want to run it there.

Its also important to note that you shouldnt remove any factory wiring, as you will just want to add to it.


Also, as far as capasitors are concerned, i personally dont believe in using them, because they honestly dont do that much to help. Of course this is all opinion, but ive never had a cap in any of my cars. My old car i ran about 1400RMS between my mono-block and 4-channel, and all i did was the big three, and had an optima battery, and it was fine. Yea there was a LITTLE headlight dimming here and there, but it was not bad at all.

Heres a quote that i pulled from a car audio forum:


A capacitor makes a huge dent in your wallet, with minimal positive impact on your car's electrical system. Think of a capacitor as a small power surplus storage device. All it really does is catch a little overflow of current from the alternator, if there is any, and stores a limited amount of power internally. Considering that even a small cap can cost you over $100 plus install, they really don't offer much. If your audio system is higher in continuaous wattage (lets say for example 1000 W RMS total), you'd probably be told by an electronics retailer to purchase a 1 to 5 FARAD capacitor. A normal price for a 1 to 2 Farad cap can range from $150 to $300.

Lets look at it from another perspective. You can get a decent deep cycle battery for around $150 to $200. These hold a much larger charge, and connected with a battery isolator ($25 on ebay), will give you a stand alone power supply for your sound system pulling minimal to nothing over the top of your vehicle's normal power consumption. So, your car's electrical charging system will last longer (likely longer than stock), your equipment will not affect essential functions like headlights at all, and wow, look at that, it costs less than a cap and does more for you. Aside from that, a cap will create more power draw on your car's recharging system if it is emptied. How can it be said to help relieve power draw, when it DRAWS POWER? If coupled with extra batteries and such, a capacitor can and will help in situations of extremely high current draw, but used as the sole solution to help with heavy power draws, they are not the best idea.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thank you for the information im liking the big three wiring. did you just use the stock bolts in the engine compartment to ground it? like it looks like one belongs to the shocks and struts? and for the engine block the pic is a little dark what did you attach that one to?
 

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get a yellow top battery, run thicker wires, do the big 3 and go from there. if you're still drawing too much power, which i doubt you will, then look into getting a CAP. I always used a CAP for my systems just to be safe, and I personally feel they are worth it, but start small and work your way from there.
 

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Doing the big three allows for better grounding and power delivery. The thicker the wire, the less resistance, and the better the connections will be. Your charging system will work less to keep your battery charged, and thats a good thing



On the alternator, there is already a wire that is run from the positive of your battery to the alternator. There is a bolt that holds that wire onto the alternator, and you want to run it there.

Its also important to note that you shouldnt remove any factory wiring, as you will just want to add to it.


Also, as far as capasitors are concerned, i personally dont believe in using them, because they honestly dont do that much to help. Of course this is all opinion, but ive never had a cap in any of my cars. My old car i ran about 1400RMS between my mono-block and 4-channel, and all i did was the big three, and had an optima battery, and it was fine. Yea there was a LITTLE headlight dimming here and there, but it was not bad at all.

Heres a quote that i pulled from a car audio forum:
I agree... Capacitors are useless LOL... they are a "band-aid" solution. My audio guy bitched my face off for wasting my money on a cap LOL... the money for a cap you might as well buy a second battery and run that. Plus far more efficient then a cap.

Yes I ran a cap before (5 farad I believe) and it sorta helped but then my audio guy switched it out and ran a second battery and I was quite disappointed that I wasted money on a cap :lol::lol:
 

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I agree... Capacitors are useless LOL... they are a "band-aid" solution. My audio guy bitched my face off for wasting my money on a cap LOL... the money for a cap you might as well buy a second battery and run that. Plus far more efficient then a cap.



Yes I ran a cap before (5 farad I believe) and it sorta helped but then my audio guy switched it out and ran a second battery and I was quite disappointed that I wasted money on a cap


A 5 farad cap is huge, and way over kill.

I ran a 1F cap with my 2 Rockford 351m amps.

What you will find with a cap (if installed correctly, with correct wiring) is that when you get that hard base hit, the amp will not drown out, generating extra noise. Think of it this way, your amp(s) draw a huge amount of current on that hit of base to send the sub outward. without a battery or cap near by (12" or less), the amp will starve for power, causing the sound to loose it's crispness and destort the sound. This will be more or less noticeable depending on the music you listen to. A cap will also buffer the hit your alternator or main battery would see.

A second battery works, but you need to be concerned with gases expelled by the battery.
 

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A 5 farad cap is huge, and way over kill.

I ran a 1F cap with my 2 Rockford 351m amps.

What you will find with a cap (if installed correctly, with correct wiring) is that when you get that hard base hit, the amp will not drown out, generating extra noise. Think of it this way, your amp(s) draw a huge amount of current on that hit of base to send the sub outward. without a battery or cap near by (12" or less), the amp will starve for power, causing the sound to loose it's crispness and destort the sound. This will be more or less noticeable depending on the music you listen to. A cap will also buffer the hit your alternator or main battery would see.

A second battery works, but you need to be concerned with gases expelled by the battery.
Hahahaha... I was running alot more then that :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Around 2500 RMS I believe in amp power... :lol::lol:

I'm not saying they don't work, but they are a bandaid solution... they help but won't really solve the problem... For the money of a cap I find them not worth it.
 

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A decent 1F cap is only about $50, so they are not that expensive.
They also have a better charge/discharge rate then a second battery.
If you ever get a chance to watch the current/voltage between your main battery and your amps when you are really pounding the tunes, you'll see a cap will smoothen out the spikes a better then a battery or running with nothing.
They are also cheaper and a lot easier to replace then an alternator or decent battery.
 

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Consider battery isolation. Depending on your system needs, your second battery will discharge first. This will cause the second battery to draw from the primary battery when it gets low. A battery isolator will isolate the two batteries and the alternator will charge the battery in need of charging.
 

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may want to have your battery and electrical system checked also man. no way your light should be comming on with a system that small. i have a lot more power running through my car and my light comes on but only if i try and play it louder than i know i should, and i havent had time to do any electrical upgrades yet asside from a battery.

one solution might be a BATCAP it's more or less a cap and a battery all in one.

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.brands&category_id=5&brand_ID=64 (main link)

http://www.woofersetc.com/p6758/SCELL400--Soundstream-400-Amp-Battery-Capacitor-Cell-Combination.htm (direct link to what you probably need)
 

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http://www.caliberforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=177&pictureid=1162



idk if any of these things i just posted above make a picture pop up im still trying to figure that out

but i just put in a new system and it is making my battery light come on while im driving. is there any way i can get fix this with out replacing my alternator with a bigger one or adding a second battery?

i have heard of yellow and red top batterys before could one of these solve my problem?

thanks for your help
Is it possible to get information on the size of subs and the size of your box you have built in the picture?
 
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