I make lapping two days ago and my motor oil temp going up quickly.They don't make upgrade's because Caliber SRT-4 owners didn't need upgrade on their cars...They already have tranny oil cooler...
I wonder if you can't get one for an older turbo Dodge that you could use. i think the filter bases are the same diameter.I make lapping two days ago and my motor oil temp going up quickly.
Daily driver and 1/4 mile strip you don't need that but one hours of lapping on the track....:read:
Thx BudyJust build one yourself. Summit sells a ton of different remote fluid coolers complete with fans, in all different sizes.
This could be the one?
The only thing is that it says for automatic trans and 2.4L engines,
This could work for the caliber manual trans and 1.8L engines?
What could be the difference from this one?
Do I will need a thermostat for the oil cooler ?
where has to be installed this thermostat?
I buy a oil cooler pressure gauge so don't worry i will do test with and without oil cooler upgrade to see the different pressure.Just make sure you get one that can handle the nominal flow of the oil pump. I wouldn't know where to find that information but I'm sure it's available somewhere. Service manual perhaps?
I bough oil cooler 14x6x2 and ordered sandwich plate with thermostat. I'm still wait for receive my sandwich plate. I can take picture of my oil cooler if your want. I don't want to give you the part number until I double check if the sandwich fit. :wave:
Copying and pasting info you found on google doesn't really support your theory. There seems to be a miss understanding of how the engine works and what oils purpose is.Thx budy,
I really will appresate your help and your installation pics, procedure and where and how to install the cooler and thermostat, to do it in my 2007 Caliber SE 5 speeds manual trans 1.8L.
the thermostat has to be calibrated to 180F - 210F ? Do you will need a oil pump?
PD: Heat management: An oil cooler will help keep your oil cooler and more viscous
As much as we like to talk about engine efficiency and mileage, the truth is that internal combustion engines are only about 30 to 40% efficient. That means that almost two thirds of the energy potentially contained in the air/fuel mixture is lost as ‘heat’ where only 30 to 40% is transferred down to the wheels as power or acceleration.
This heat has to be properly managed… one of the things that we do for in cylinder heating is use colder spark plugs to prevent the spark plug from becoming a hot ignition point inside the cylinder even when there is no spark. Other things we might need are a larger capacity radiator or an added/larger engine oil cooler. If the coolant temperature rises and the oil temperature eventually rises, then the oil will start to lose its thickness and viscosity. Now, fully synthetic oil is designed to be more resilient to higher oil temperatures, but eventually if you continue to cook your oil by heating it over its desired operating temperatures then it will no longer become useful as a lubricant, engine wear and friction will increase, and ultimately you will lose power from the added friction.
The thing to note here is that cars make a variable amount of power depending on what rpm, boost pressure, throttle opening, and load conditions you drive it. If you drive your car very sparingly and then do the occasional drag race then the engine has plenty of time to settle down and cool down. If on the other hand you are always asking your engine to produce its maximum amount of power then that heat will start to accumulate in the under-rated factory radiator and oil cooler (that were not designed for an extra 200hp worth of heat) and eventually you may run into problems.
To sum things up, if you’re an aggressive drive and you’re looking to significantly boost the performance of your vehicle or plan to use it in severe conditions such as high load towing conditions, then it is advisable that you upgrade your radiator to a higher capacity better flowing radiator as well as install or upgrade your engine oil cooler.
Other things you might see people do might include cooler thermostats and high pressure radiator caps and high flow water pumps. These are all geared towards helping the stock cooling system cope with an increased heat demand.
For most of the rest of us that go on the occasional spirited drive, these modifications may not be necessary.
http://www.revozport.com/webpics/e46/twin oil cooler.JPG
http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine Basics Root Folder/Images/oilcooler3.jpg
Additional Oil Cooler: This additional oil cooler is to work along side the original oil cooler including braided hose and fitments
Benefit: Reduce oil temperature up to 20%
http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine Basics Root Folder/oil cooler basics.html
the engine power its there...
But We are loosing a bunch of HPs because the HEAT
Still don't think you need it. If anything I would prolly use it for the tranny, but thats just my opinion. Good luck:twak:
LOL even with a thermostatic switch I doubt it'll keep it low. Just because it opens at 180 doesn't mean it'll keep it below 260. Again the issue is viscosity but you seem pretty hell bent on believing it has to do with a front mount oil cooler so I guess its your issue now.My engine oil temp on the road never goes more then 190 , even at wot. But 30 min at wot on track my engine oil temps staying around 260 so it's to much for me. Even if a Engineer told me it's useless my target is 190.
Anyway I'm not on this forum to sell or proof something only to help member who need cooling motor oil on track.
Most of member do quarter mile so it's useless for those member but me it's more autocross racing 6 x 30 min at wot on track in the same day.:wave:
I will use sandwich plate with thermostat 180F.
I got thermostat 180F from DCR until that my oil temp stay lower then stock now. If you think your are right, I'm happy for you.LOL even with a thermostatic switch I doubt it'll keep it low. Just because it opens at 180 doesn't mean it'll keep it below 260. Again the issue is viscosity but you seem pretty hell bent on believing it has to do with a front mount oil cooler so I guess its your issue now.