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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Salesman should have, at the time of delivery:

Showed you how to set the clock and program stations into memory, work all of the stereo functions, explian the ChillZone, show you the locations of all airbags, show you where to place the jack underneath the vehicle in the event that you have a flat, or at least offer to do so... explained all of the seating configuration functions, where to check oil, add washer fluid, offer a familiarization drive, show you how cruise control works, the locations of all cubbyholes and cupholders, operation of all HVAC controls... what "recric" does... wher the front and rear wiper controls are, how to turn on the fog lights, where the little flashlight thingy is... where the hook is to hang the filler cap whil you're putting gas in the car... (yes, there is one...) AND explain that the cap requires at least 2 clicks to ensure that it's properly closed... he should also have told you WHY you need to turn it at least 2 clicks (check engine light).

It's his/her job to do all of the above, in addition to everything else. If anything was left out, go back and request a "re-delivery" so that they can show you how anything you don't understand -works.

Did they call you at 2 days, 7 days, and 30 days to ensure that you were completely satisfied with the car? Were you informed of the Customer satisfaction survey that you were to be receiving in 30 days?

We have to remember a lot of stuff to be good salespeople...

The best you can do is to let the salesperson do their best to explain all of the features of the car to you, try not to be in a hurry, and make sure you ask questions about anything that you're unclear on. If you reall really like everything about the car after the salesperson has done their job during the presentation, then the car essentially sold itself. The most important questions are not related to the car at all, instead the financing, extended warranty and GAP protection.

Don't try and beat on the salesperson but if you're not happy with the rate, often the dealership can work with a bank other than Chrysler Financial if it will close the sale... If they quote you a rate and you're happy with it and go to sign papers, check the actual rate on the contract to see if it is different... and start asking questions. With large dealerships, it is common practice to "back-end" people and tack on a few extra points for some more profit. If you look at the contract and were quoted, say, 6.8%, but on the contract it says something on the order of 7.19%, you are NOT being back-ended... The rate is from a fee-based bank in this case and that's how you got the rate you got... 99.999% of the time, the fee banks still beat Chrysler Financial... The problem is that ChryFi gets really pissed off at dealerships for using other banks instead of them... sometimes they'll drop a point off the rate to get the business... it all depends on the relationship between the dealer and ChryFi.

On something like a Caliber there's not a lot of wiggle room, if any, in spite of things floating around the net about $1300 markups and holdback fees. If a salesperson walks into the manager's office and asks to sell at invoice, chances are he'll be looking for a job the next day. It's something you just don't do (as a salesman). Now if it's the end of the month and they're struggling to make their sales numbers... it can be a different story.

Chrysler's rates...

FICO____700+___670-699___640-669___<640
A+........7.24%.....7.44%........7.90%.....9.44%


I could divulge more, but it would take me forever... these are the going rates for good (credit) payors.

Warranties...... You want one. Get the longest, highest-mileage, most coverage one you can afford. They're worth their weight in gold. And they're marked up around 25% most of the time. If you like your salesman, get the warranty and don't haggle it. That's how they make ends meet. If your salesman was a prick, refuse the warranty and get it from somewhere else.

GAP usually has a fixed cost of around $400. If you total your car 3 years into the loan and your insurance pays all but the last $X,XXX of it, Gap has you covered. You're not likely to need it, but you'd wish you had it if you ended up in a serious crash.

-Jeff
 

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If you got the convenience group, they should show you how to use that with the Tire Pressure Monitor, how to change the personal settings of the car through the Mini-Trip Computer, Temp/Compass, etc... If you have Sirius Satellite Radio, they should show you how to use that, and/or explain how to activate it. Possibly even offer to activate it for you if thats possible.

Some dealers will also go the extra mile to fill the tank full of gas, which they don't have to I don't think. My dealer always does without charging me for it. My dealer explains nearly all of the above with the exception of where to put the jack (RTFM anyone!). Other than that, everything else is explained. I basically know everything about it anyways, but always sit back and listen because you never know what you'll pick up.
 

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This is good stuff! I posted a while back on the subject of financing, here I am with a 764 FICO, I put $3000.00 down ($3500.00 if you count the $500.00 rebate)@ %6.9. The 6.9% only came when the FINANCE MANANGER informed me, that if I was a COSTCO member, then & only then could I get 6.9%. I thought I was being f****d hard. So I had my cousin who is also a FINANCE MANAGER for CADILLAC/HUMMER, give him a call. They went over the numbers, and my cousin said I got a good deal, because NOBODY was getting 6.9% Now, the thing that bothered me was the fact that my Caliber had a MSRP of $19,415.00. I asked for 1% under MSRP, they came up with $18,883.00 or something like that. Since it was getting late, I was in a hurry to close the deal. I didn't have a chance to read the contract until I got home. That's when I saw that they charged me $19,515.00:eek: and I called them back and threw a FIT! They realized the mistake, gave me a free tank of gas, and gave me uCONNECT for free. :D
I still think I got screwed somewhere, but since I'm no mathematician, I can't really say where:confused:.

OH, WHERE IS THE "HOOK" for the FILLER CAP??? I need to know this, because the damn gas station attendants let the gas cap HIT my paint to the point where it's SCRATCHED UP!!!!!!!!!!! (NO SELF SERVE in NJ)
 

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Like its that hard to pump the gas YOURSELF!
 

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I am a cash customer - no loans is the way I operate. So, Mr. Salesman Type Guy - what about strategies for cash-o-lah type customers like me? Any more wiggle room in that? I save the dealership paperwork, time and etc...by paying up front and in CASH.

By the way, as soon as I was writing this...the phone rang. My salesman said my car moved into "Frame" and it is being built! Won't be long [email protected]!!!!
 

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Karen...you need to change your status in your sig to E (frame). :D
 

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Thank you...done. E status 6/19/06.
 

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karenh56 said:
I am a cash customer - no loans is the way I operate. So, Mr. Salesman Type Guy - what about strategies for cash-o-lah type customers like me? Any more wiggle room in that? I save the dealership paperwork, time and etc...by paying up front and in CASH.

By the way, as soon as I was writing this...the phone rang. My salesman said my car moved into "Frame" and it is being built! Won't be long [email protected]!!!!
Ummm, not everyone is soooo fortunate to have CASH to burn.:rolleyes:
 

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STEEL - remember ONE THING - the guy in the finance office makes his profit on YOUR interest rate - it is in HIS best interest to sucker someone into a HIGH interest rate. You wanna get a "good" rate? When you hit the finance office, if you don't like the deal, go back to the salesman and threaten to cancel the deal unless they come down on the interest rate......then sit back and watch the fireworks.....
 

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I wish I could have bought from you! You seem to really know your stuff. My salesperson knows less about the car than I do and this was before I even took delivery!

He didn't explain ANYTHING on the car and actually guilted us into giving him good scores on the survey, said he would get in trouble. I would have scored him much lower since he didn't know jack about the car. Plus everytime I had a question about financing he had to call his manager and then call me back. It was totally frustrating to not get answers right then, what's the point of having a salesperson who has to run to the manager with every question?!

I stopped in to ask about my chrome grill replacement, I made them replace the color matched grill on my sport because the booklet showed it with chrome(of course they didn't know the book was outdated) and filled in two of the salesmen about the pinging problem, the grill issue and the fact that the upgraded stereo doesn't come with an aux jack. They all just looked at me like they were dumb founded.

Must be they aren't educating themselves with this car since it's never on the lot. Seems like a bad choice if you ask me!
 

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MikeinWoodstock said:
STEEL - remember ONE THING - the guy in the finance office makes his profit on YOUR interest rate - it is in HIS best interest to sucker someone into a HIGH interest rate. You wanna get a "good" rate? When you hit the finance office, if you don't like the deal, go back to the salesman and threaten to cancel the deal unless they come down on the interest rate......then sit back and watch the fireworks.....
Thanks for the tip MW, it was my FIRST TIME BUYING. But, I know now. BTW, I forgot to mention, since I didn't have a license at the time of purchase, and they used my FICO along with my fiance's (520). That's why they came up with such a high rate. But since I don't (or didn't) know, how much weight that held, I ate it up.:confused:
 

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Oh also you mention A+ rating, what credit score would that be? I am sorry, I couldn't really understand your chart.

I was quoted a higher payment and then my score came back A+ instead of A? and my payment dropped $15 per month.
 

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hey steelbluecali, you can always refinance after 6 months of so, and try to get a better rate...
 

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what exactly is the A+ program.... is it true that it only works out for people that lease and not for the ones who buy..... that's what my dealer told me... what are the requirements? who is this program for? how does it work?
 

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helsonrm said:
hey steelbluecali, you can always refinance after 6 months of so, and try to get a better rate...
Thank you my helsonrm, my good man. I'm definetly aware of that option, and will definetly explore it.
 

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PAJeep said:
guess I was fortunate at 5.74% for 60 months. For those that asked attached is how I do my gas cap, not sure if its how it was intended but it keeps it off the paint.
Mines is 6.9% for 72 months. It's the fact that the gas station attendants let the gas cap just fall on the side of the car. I'm taking it to the dealer to see if they will buff it for me anyway, if not... I will pay to have it done. I then will have the 3M paint guard film applied to the car ALL OVER.:Dhttp://www.autopaintguard.com/kit_search.asp?prevyear=2007&prevmake=11&prevmodel=1493&prevsubmodel=0&prevseries=0&year=2007&make=11&model=1493&submodel=4213
 

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STEELBLueCALI said:
Mines is 6.9% for 72 months. It's the fact that the gas station attendants let the gas cap just fall on the side of the car. I'm taking it to the dealer to see if they will buff it for me anyway, if not... I will pay to have it done. I then will have the 3M paint guard film applied to the car ALL OVER.:Dhttp://www.autopaintguard.com/kit_search.asp?prevyear=2007&prevmake=11&prevmodel=1493&prevsubmodel=0&prevseries=0&year=2007&make=11&model=1493&submodel=4213
What you need to do is ask him where is car is parked and unscrew his gas cap and slam it on the side of his car for him. Or you can always cross state lines when you need gas :)
 
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