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timing and knock

12588 Views 73 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Tal Whacker
i have my boost turned down to 16psi, because of the colder weather my a/f is much leaner.
heres what i want to know, my timing is still setup for my 21psi. can not having enough timing on 16psi cause knock?

my knock (1.1 at wot) seems kinda high for my boost level and an a/f of 11.2-11.6

any thoughts.
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if i ran water/ meth kit could i keep my boost up all year round so i dont have to mess with it EVER.
if i ran water/ meth kit could i keep my boost up all year round so i dont have to mess with it EVER.
I'm so fatal with this car that if i install this kit my car would provably be the only CSRT4 with a blown engine :nono:

I'm dying to get RST2 turbo upgrade but i haven't cause am afraid it will lead to other problems considering my history
dude that way i stuck with the clamp .....SIMPLE.... that sucks mans, i wish i can help you, like you try to help everyone on here.
im loss when it come to the fic.
all my stuff (thank god) stays consistent, day to day.

Dont let one person posting tweak you out. There have been a few people with map clamps having issues also...........
im not really sure how to read the timing table. should i pull 1 degree or 1/2 degree at a time?

i managed to get my fuel trims to stay between -10 and +10 while normal driving, idle and taking off from a stop is my only problem. no matter which way i take the fuel it still bucks like a mother. i make an adjustment and its fine for a min. then does it again.

im just trying to wrap my mind around why the car runs completely different every time i start it. just now for example, went out and started it and everything looked good from yesterdays tinkering.

stopped to get something to eat, came out started the car and the a/f was nuts and my short trim was at 22-28. i just let it sit their and sputter, after a few min. it started to fix itself.

i also noticed something else, when i turn my car off it makes a bunch of clunking noise. after i make an adjustment that noise disappears for awhile then comes back. i can recreate this every time after a small adjustment on the fuel/load map.

im not over thinking this, i just want my car to run a little better. its embarrassing when your at red light and you go to take off (normal driving)and it starts bucking spitting and sputtering like your riding a bull.



Have you ever replaced the factory upstream o2 sensor? If that is lazy/going bad/or bad, then no amount of changes to the FIC will keep it straight. The FIC is / should be a set it and forget it type of a deal for the drive-ability. The WOT might need a touch up from weather changes, but you shouldnt need to play with the drive-ability.

Either that or your FIC is tweaking out a bit from a start and/or vibration. Start the car, and wiggle the box a bit, if it tweaks out, you have a loose wire in the connector. You will need to find it and fix it.


The first thing I would do is buy a new o2 sensor. MAke sure you leave the battery disconnected while installing it.

As for the timing map, just pull 2-3 degrees and go from there.
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. when times get tight i sure could use the 427/mo payment and 125/mo insurance to not be there.

****ing A man, my car payment is only $192/month and insurance is $453/half year!
****ing A man, my car payment is only $192/month and insurance is $453/half year!

****, our payment was 7XX/month, why do you think we got rid of it :jester:


26k, zero down, zero % finance 3/years = fock ton of loot
Hey Aaron how's your business schedule in December??

i might take the drive there now to get the RS2 turbo installed, tuned and get my car running right once and for all:beerchug:
Have you ever replaced the factory upstream o2 sensor? If that is lazy/going bad/or bad, then no amount of changes to the FIC will keep it straight. The FIC is / should be a set it and forget it type of a deal for the drive-ability. The WOT might need a touch up from weather changes, but you shouldnt need to play with the drive-ability.

Either that or your FIC is tweaking out a bit from a start and/or vibration. Start the car, and wiggle the box a bit, if it tweaks out, you have a loose wire in the connector. You will need to find it and fix it.


The first thing I would do is buy a new o2 sensor. MAke sure you leave the battery disconnected while installing it.

As for the timing map, just pull 2-3 degrees and go from there.
i will check all of these and let you know. thanks mang:bigthumb:
****, our payment was 7XX/month, why do you think we got rid of it :jester:


26k, zero down, zero % finance 3/years = fock ton of loot
ouch, did you get staples or stitches after that **** pounding? :jester:
Dont let one person posting tweak you out. There have been a few people with map clamps having issues also...........
not that it is an "issue", but my CEL is lit up about 90% of the time for 'low map sensor voltage'

Like Aaron said, we mod our cars and have to accept that they won't be perfect 100% of the time
my car runs good about 10% of the time. so you can see why im frustrated.
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my car runs good about 10% of the time. so you can see why im frustrated.
With my fic install and dyno tune by realtune. I drove the car between 20F to 65F and I got no problem. :read:
im not sure if its the temps or not. but if the humidity changes especially when its wet out the car likes to bog and sputter and my a/f is in the 16's when driving. then it shoots down to low 12's, stays their for a few seconds then shoots back up to 16's again. then if i come to a stop, then go again it drives normal around 14.3-15.2 a/f. and its back and forth from stop to stop. its just random, the car is retarded.
like today for example, its about 63 out and a nice day. at random when i come to a stop it tends to lean out and stay their and the sound of the motor changes. i have to pump the gas to get it to richen up.
im not sure if its the temps or not. but if the humidity changes especially when its wet out the car likes to bog and sputter and my a/f is in the 16's when driving. then it shoots down to low 12's, stays their for a few seconds then shoots back up to 16's again. then if i come to a stop, then go again it drives normal around 14.3-15.2 a/f. and its back and forth from stop to stop. its just random, the car is retarded.
like today for example, its about 63 out and a nice day. at random when i come to a stop it tends to lean out and stay their and the sound of the motor changes. i have to pump the gas to get it to richen up.
You install you FIC by yourself?
im not sure if its the temps or not. but if the humidity changes especially when its wet out the car likes to bog and sputter and my a/f is in the 16's when driving. then it shoots down to low 12's, stays their for a few seconds then shoots back up to 16's again. then if i come to a stop, then go again it drives normal around 14.3-15.2 a/f. and its back and forth from stop to stop. its just random, the car is retarded.
like today for example, its about 63 out and a nice day. at random when i come to a stop it tends to lean out and stay their and the sound of the motor changes. i have to pump the gas to get it to richen up.
I have the exact same problem Mike
Its getting really annoying, idk if it has to do with the tune
You install you FIC by yourself?
me and my brother. everything is good with the wiring if thats what your thinking. i think it may have to do with the length of the wire, i could be wrong though.
i thought about rewiring it under the hood.
I have the exact same problem Mike
Its getting really annoying, idk if it has to do with the tune
i dont think its the tune, mine even did it after aaron tuned my car. i think the pcm is just fighting back.
i dont think its the tune, mine even did it after aaron tuned my car. i think the pcm is just fighting back.


Making a few street pulls and driving around for a bit is not an actual tune, although Ill admit that usually thats all it takes. With the issues you say you have, I would need the car overnight to play with different temps and to pick up on any of the random hiccups there might be as I agree its not going to be the tune.

Your car is no different than anyone elses. There is just something thats not operating totally correct. That may be vacuum leaks, FIC hardware, FIC harness, random voltage drops etc.

If the car runs as bad as you claim, most people wouldnt have waiting a week let alone months. Drop the car off and lets figure out your issues so you can enjoy your ride.
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check the FIC harness - the TPS wire on mine started to back out of the connector, caused all sorts of havoc

Aaron tipped me off to check the harness and sure as ****, that was where the problem was
I'll check the harness when I have the chance..
Does the resistor on the TPS wire go out easily? I heard it does
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