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Discussion Starter #1
OKSO.

As I've stated before, this in my first FI car to work on.

Last night, a buddy of mine with an Evo 9 tried to talk me into removing the green line that controls the waste gate actuator (hopefully makes sense) to increase the boost by preventing the excess boost from being released.

My question is, what are the consequences in doing this. The concept makes sense to me and the payoff would be ideal, as it doesn't cost money. But I don't want to damage anything.

Thanks in advance.
 

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i have no idea if it will raise your boost but it doesnt matter. if it did, you will throw a cel and go into limp mode anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i have no idea if it will raise your boost but it doesnt matter. if it did, you will throw a cel and go into limp mode anyway.
Is this due to the fact that the ECU will see its getting more than the allotted boost via some other sensor? I thought the only way it would be able to see the boost is via the waste gate, and since the waste gate is disconnected, it cant read from it.

Not trying to say I don't believe you, just trying to understand.

Thanks for the reply.
 

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the ecu sees boost with the map sensor not the wg.
wg only controls boost.

you would have to remove the green and the black line in the same solenoid, then run your own line from the turbo to the wg. if you add more boost by tightening the wg you will get a cel.
 

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Is this due to the fact that the ECU will see its getting more than the allotted boost via some other sensor? I thought the only way it would be able to see the boost is via the waste gate, and since the waste gate is disconnected, it cant read from it.

Not trying to say I don't believe you, just trying to understand.

Thanks for the reply.

you MUST run a line to the wg. do not run your car with out it.
 

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If you have the stock PCM you will either throw an immediate code and go into limp or your PCM will pull all the throttle.
If you do this I hope you have a way to clear the codes or you'll be in limp all the way to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is exactly why I question the idea and asked you guys. Free HP/TQ is not something that really exists, least not often.
 

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What if we remove the soleniod in order to get a faster spool up. Im not looking for free horse power/higher boost but i would like a faster spool up and better hold. If we remove the soleniod then wouldent that allow us to run full boost even when the temp is say 65 instead of it cutting some back?

I was thinking about making a simalar thread but figured i would just ask here since its almost the same and i dont wanna make a wasteful thread.
 

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a guy with an evo told me to drive my car into a fire as well.

I don't see this happening, it doesn't make sense because the ECU would catch it anyways.
 

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What if we remove the soleniod in order to get a faster spool up. Im not looking for free horse power/higher boost but i would like a faster spool up and better hold. If we remove the soleniod then wouldent that allow us to run full boost even when the temp is say 65 instead of it cutting some back?

I was thinking about making a simalar thread but figured i would just ask here since its almost the same and i dont wanna make a wasteful thread.

If you do any of that with the stock PCM you will get what everyone else who has gotten. Realtune, DCR, and a bunch of others have already been down this road so unless you want to re-invent the wheel your better off not wasting your time. Even with the stage 1 your going to find that unless you have a clamp, you're not getting much more than 300ft lb.
 

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guy at the track told me the same thing...so i tried it and got no where...got 20 psi but the car went into limp mode instantly...not worth it..
 

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I have run my own line from the WG and BOV. Pulled the green and black lines from #2 selnoid, got 20 psi and a pretty good hold. Stage 1, no CEL or limp mode thus far (lucky maybe)...
 

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what people used to do on dsm's and the nsrt sometimes was put a "T" in the line from the wga to its vac source. this made a bleeder and upped the boost without using a mbc/ebc.

that being said... dont listen to your friend, ghetto mods are exactly that. you have a nice car, do things right and dont use the newbie short cuts. besides, like everyone said if you up the boost youll throw a cell and go into limp mode/
 

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I have run my own line from the WG and BOV. Pulled the green and black lines from #2 selnoid, got 20 psi and a pretty good hold. Stage 1, no CEL or limp mode thus far (lucky maybe)...
without a clamp? if so then holy crap.
 

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what people used to do on dsm's and the nsrt sometimes was put a "T" in the line from the wga to its vac source. this made a bleeder and upped the boost without using a mbc/ebc.

that being said... dont listen to your friend, ghetto mods are exactly that. you have a nice car, do things right and dont use the newbie short cuts. besides, like everyone said if you up the boost youll throw a cell and go into limp mode/
will that work on the csrt?
 

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itll work on any turbo car but like i said theres no point on the csrt.

the stock wga is adjustable enough to add a few psi.
the pcm will throw you in limp mode if you do
if your ms1 your throttle will shut.

youll end up slower than before you did it with this car.
 

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will that work on the csrt?

Lol, this is what you said....
what people used to do on dsm's and the nsrt sometimes was put a "T" in the line from the wga to its vac source. this made a bleeder and upped the boost without using a mbc/ebc. that being said... dont listen to your friend, ghetto mods are exactly that. you have a nice car, do things right and dont use the newbie short cuts. besides, like everyone said if you up the boost youll throw a cell and go into limp mode/
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This is what he heard...

BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAHBLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH put a "T" in the line from the wga to its vac source BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAHBLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH
 
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