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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got to take an R/T out today for a test drive, and I drove it a little more aggressively than I did the SXT models I've given a go.

I noticed something a little odd though. When I hit the gas, it was like there was some resistance 1/2 to about 3/4 down. The pedal definitely wasn't smooth to push down all the way.

Now I'm wondering if this is normal for the Caliber?

Thanks :)


Three weeks to go!
 

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I can't speak for whether it is normal or not; I have not received my car yet. I do know why it feels different, there is no accelerator cable attached, it's completely electronic. if you look above the pedal, you will see a switch (pressure, I assume) and a wire connector. The brakes and steering are still standard, but acceleration is purely fly by wire. I imagine the resistance is built into the pedal to simulate what people are used to feeling.
 

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My girlfriend has a Neon SXT (recent, but not positive on year. Maybe an 04 or 05) and I know exactly what you are talking about.

The first time I drove it I felt the weighted gas pedal. It is a really strange feeling. I am not sure when it becomes more difficult to compress as you press down further. Maybe to help conserve fuel and limit speeds of a sleepy foot?
 

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100% normal on the R/T. There's very little resistance when you have it in automatic mode. Put into autostick next time. It firms WAY up when you do that.
 

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Amandyke said:
100% normal on the R/T. There's very little resistance when you have it in automatic mode. Put into autostick next time. It firms WAY up when you do that.
Agree'd. It does feel a bit strange, especially for me going from the SRT to the Caliber. You get used to it.

Tiff
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info. Since it was the first R/T I drove, as well as the first Caliber I drove with a bit of agression, I wasn't sure if it was me or the car.

I'm hitting up another dealer ths afternoon or tomorrow, will have to check out the Autostick and see how that goes

Thanks again.
 

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Yup -- what you're describing is normal for the CVT cars -- there's a detent right before the pedal hits the floor. You can drive right up to this point and get great fuel economy or if you really want to get up and go, mash it past the detent and the CVT goes into performance mode. I think it's chrysler's idea of a sport/fuel economy switch (they just built it into the pedal).
 

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Tito said:
Yup -- what you're describing is normal for the CVT cars -- there's a detent right before the pedal hits the floor. You can drive right up to this point and get great fuel economy or if you really want to get up and go, mash it past the detent and the CVT goes into performance mode. I think it's chrysler's idea of a sport/fuel economy switch (they just built it into the pedal).
Yeah I test drove an SXT the other day and the salesman went with me and was watching the RPM gauge and wondered how I got it to reach redline that quick. I had to teach him about the car, and let him know about the last throttle detent button:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That makes sense, not a bad idea when you think of it. Thanks for the extra info.
 

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Xtreme Thunder said:
Yeah I test drove an SXT the other day and the salesman went with me and was watching the RPM gauge and wondered how I got it to reach redline that quick. I had to teach him about the car, and let him know about the last throttle detent button:D
I always thought it was bad to take an engine to redline... no? I mean won't that bust and bend things?
 

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GOT said:
I always thought it was bad to take an engine to redline... no? I mean won't that bust and bend things?
Ohhhh, nuts....:pI thought thats when you were supposed to shift!!!After all these years..................:D:D:D
 

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pacerman said:
Ohhhh, nuts....:pI thought thats when you were supposed to shift!!!After all these years..................:D:D:D
ROTFL!

You need one of those turbine powered Pacers that were supposed to have been built:D
 

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Not at all. It's actually good for the motor. Think of it like a person. If all you ever do is slowly saunter around from place to place, and then you want to run, you're going to wear yourself out right quick like. Whereas if you always get some running in, it keeps you in good shape. Just like an engine, gotta get it up there every now and then just as good preventative care.
 

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Amandyke said:
Just like an engine, gotta get it up there every now and then just as good preventative care.
I don't know man. I've heard that a couple times before, but I'm not convinced that it's the best thing.
 

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Amandyke said:
Not at all. It's actually good for the motor. Think of it like a person. If all you ever do is slowly saunter around from place to place, and then you want to run, you're going to wear yourself out right quick like. Whereas if you always get some running in, it keeps you in good shape.
And besides, the human is a poor comparison. A lot of other animals do a lot of laying around but if needed they can run and jump like a rabid animal in an instant (like my house cat. It does nothing but lay it's lazy butt around all day long. But if wants to climb the back-yard tree, it will be at the top and back down right quick.
 

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During break in periods you should not over rev the engine. However it is good to vary the RPM when doing long steady state driving. Work the engine over the entire normal RPM range during the first 500 miles. Do some spirited (not balls out) acceleration, pass a few cars and let the trans get a thorough work-out. After about 800 to 1000 miles, you can do some serious hard acceleration, but don't push the engine really hard until after the first oil change (See bobistheoilguy.com).

You'll have flushed the system contaminants (residuals, metals, detergents, etc) and be ready to work the electronics to get either a max performance set-up or a milage type set-up. To do this really well, disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes, re-connect, set up your clock and whatever gets reset, then drive the car how you want it to perform for about 100 miles. During that first 100 miles, the electronics have a memory and comparison process that determines the base line performance set-up for your car. This is true of most GM and Ford products and I assume it is true with all others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
irloyal said:
This is true of most GM and Ford products and I assume it is true with all others.
Could be true for the Caliber as well, I've heard similar about the Charger.
 

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That would be a cool feature, but it seems kinda of strange that you have to manually disconnect the battery from the car. It seems like they could have integrated it into the dash or something. If this technology does work, I am sure they spent a lot of time researching and developing it. It seems like a waste that a small percentage of customers will use it, let alone even know about it.
 

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When engines are fully assembled, you know what they do with them before they put them in a car or truck, right? They put them on an engine dynamometer, feed it fuel and take it all the way to the redline (Above what DCX will set the ECU's redline to) before the first mile is put on the engine. They insure the engine meets the SAE-rated power output and that the engine will not grenade itself anytime the customer takes it to the ECM-set redline. In fact there usually is one or two engines that purposely get grenaded, just to see how high and consistently the RPMs can be maintained before utter engine failure. The Pontiac Super Duty 4-cylinder comes to mind, 10,000 RPMs before it grenaded.

As mentioned, utilize the ENTIRE RPM range from 800 to 6,000 RPM. The first 35 miles are critical to engine break-in as this is the only time the roughness on the cylinder walls, used to seat the rings, is available. This is where you determine how you will want to drive the car for the rest of it's life, if gas mileage is your thing, baby it, if performance is your thing, you better be hitting alot of high RPMs during those 35 miles. After 35 miles, up to 1,500 miles, continue using the entire RPM range as often as possible, and plenty of wide open throttle when you can. By doing either you pick your path, low BHP numbers or high BHP.

Don't believe me? I have two Dynojet print-outs, one my former 2003 Mazda6 V6 ATX which was broken in baby-wise and followed the manufacturer's advise on break-in, and then I have one of another 2003 Mazda6 V6 ATX which was broken in hard. Mine dyno'ed in at 159 FWHP, the other made 183 FWHP, both cars bone stock, both pulled in the same gear. I have others from my former Mazda6 forum which prove that breaking it in hard gets you the highest possible BHP numbers.

Unfortunately I got my SXT with 50 miles on it, too many other people test drove and we didn't put any money down to hold it while we shopped around (We test drove it with 6 miles on it). So I am trying to recover what I can of the break-in period.
 

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This diferent feel in the gas pedal may be coming from the pedal its self. I believe the engine's throttle is controled electronically, a.k.a. throttle by wire. There is no throttle cable between gas pedal and throttle.

Military technology that was first used in the trucknig industry for many years now. Majority of the large diesel tractors have throttle by wire.

Or maybe on that vehicle the carpet mat was pushed under the gas pedal which created a slight interference making the gas pedal feel funny.

I already test drove two Calibers and never felt any thing weird or different with the gas pedal in comparison to the many vehicles I have owned and driven.
 
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