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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Amandyke said:
Little update on my stuff. Apparently they fixed the doors not sitting quite flush. However, they did not fix the door rattle or the allignment. Said they couldn't confirm either. AND that even if they could fix the allignment, they didn't have specs for it yet as the car is so new.

Honestly that sounds like a load of bullshit to me. If you don't know the freaking specs, call the damn factory and REQUEST them! Is that too difficult? I'm sure the factory has the specs. And I'm sure they'd be more than willing to fax over the bit of the repair manual that tells you what the specs should be. Crimany. I don't think I'll be going to the dealer I bought the car from to get service if they're not even going to try and repair the car.
same thing happened with my 2005 Scion tC I bought last year, i had lowered it within a couple of days of purchase and when I took it to get aligned they couldn't get specs on it from anyone
 

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I'm doing this from memory at the moment and don't have time to take quick look at them or refer to the owners manual - but they seem to be a complete and sealed switch assembly with (most likely) a small LED instead of a removable and replaceable bulb...
 

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Harley said:
I'm doing this from memory at the moment and don't have time to take quick look at them or refer to the owners manual - but they seem to be a complete and sealed switch assembly with (most likely) a small LED instead of a removable and replaceable bulb...
So what would this mean? That you cannot change out the bulbs in the window up/down buttons because there is no bulb? So there is no way to make all 4 light up then?
 

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Pretty much I guess. Unless of course you get and wire a completely new assembly.. :D
 

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katiescaliber said:
So what would this mean? That you cannot change out the bulbs in the window up/down buttons because there is no bulb? So there is no way to make all 4 light up then?
I believe so, but won't be able to look at it closer until some time tomorrow. Basically, I'm saying that it MAY mean that the whole switch would have to be replaced for the desired effect, but it's also possible that the switch is a unique part that only is made in 1 color. This is especially possible because the DRIVER'S window switch has a positional activation feature that makes it go all the way down automatically if depressed more that halfway, even if you remove your finger while the window is still lowering.

A possibility is to merely and precicely paint the small lens on the switch in a complementary color to reach the desired final effect, though. I don't remember my color tables, but if a very thin coat of another color paint applied over the amber lens produces another preferred one, it may be the way to go regardless that does NOT involve replacement, rewiring, risking breaking anything during the process, etc.

As I said, it still be a meticulous task, and would likely reduce illumination a bit. But perhaps worth the experiment if no replacement bulb/part/switch is
available...

As far as being able to make all 4 switches light up, I seem to recall that all 4 switches had a small square area on top that seems to be a lens window. But the possibilities include that all the window switches made for the Caliber have this depression/window, but only the driver's switch (with the automatic-full-lowering feature) actually has a small bulb or LED (light-emitting diode) under it.

Having all switches with the same basic outer case but different inner components (if that is the "case" - excuse the pun...) would be a cost-cutting move that standardizes one component - the exterior shell.

This would be somewhat like the Caliber's dash, as I posted in another thread. It appears that the basic dash panel part for all Calibers is manufactured with a round depression the on the left side of the speedometer/odometer. When installed in the calibers: If the vehicle doesn't have a certain display package, the depression remains intact. If the vehicle DOES have that feature, the depresion is merely drilled/punched out on the bottom so the control knob for that feature fits through it.
 

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Yeah...cost cutting standardization is widespread..and you are quite possibly right. :D
 

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draed said:
...I was reading around on one of the forums this weekend and saw that the Charger has a fuse that needs to be changed to make the cig outlet on all the time. By default the fuse is in the off position so that the cig outlet is off when the key is off, by moving the fuse to be inline with the others (they were saying its the one thats offset a bit from the others) it makes the outlet on always. It may be the same with the caliber, it should be listed in the manual if it is.
Have you run across that forum again? Please send the link so that I can inquire on the specific details. ...and maybe someone will have some pictures too.

Having the accessory plug HOT all the time is major plus!

Thanks

Tyke
 

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MrTyke said:
Have you run across that forum again? Please send the link so that I can inquire on the specific details. ...and maybe someone will have some pictures too.

Having the accessory plug HOT all the time is major plus!

Thanks

Tyke
Sure, it was this thread, http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6153, over at ChargerForums.com. I don't think anyone posted any pictures of it, but it's position was described pretty well.

I checked the caliber's owner's manual and it wasn't mentioned specifically, but there are a couple of fuse names that could probably be it. I didn't take a look at the fuse block to see if any were offset like the charger fuse is described to be though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
i looked in the fuse box yesterday, there's one fuse with 3 holes, it looks like you could swap it over to the other hole, i didn't try it though, since I wired the aftermarket cd player to the cig lighter since I couldn't find an acc wire on the factory harness
 

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Odd little problem I'm having. There is this thing protruding from the backside of the CVT-tranny/stick housing that I keep hitting with my foot when I move it back-n-forth from the brake and gas-peddle. IT'S IN THE WAY! It stops me from be able to smoothly move my foot from the gas to the brake. It is extremely annoying and I would think potentially dangerous as it impedes quick braking.
 

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GOT said:
Odd little problem I'm having. There is this thing protruding from the backside of the CVT-tranny/stick housing that I keep hitting with my foot when I move it back-n-forth from the brake and gas-peddle. IT'S IN THE WAY! It stops me from be able to smoothly move my foot from the gas to the brake. It is extremely annoying and I would think potentially dangerous as it impedes quick braking.
can you please take a pic? i'm not sure what you're describing...
 

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GOT said:
Odd little problem I'm having. There is this thing protruding from the backside of the CVT-tranny/stick housing that I keep hitting with my foot when I move it back-n-forth from the brake and gas-peddle. IT'S IN THE WAY! It stops me from be able to smoothly move my foot from the gas to the brake. It is extremely annoying and I would think potentially dangerous as it impedes quick braking.
huh???
I have not felt or seen anything in the way by the pedals. I'll look at mine later when I go to work to see if there is anything that might become out of place.
Yes, I second the request for pics.
 

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Just in case anybody wonders, I'm 6' and my shoe size is 10-10.5 (mens).

You can see scuff marks on that plastic cover thing (in the red circle)... which is where I keep hitting it.
Click the thumbnails

 

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pacerman said:
Geez, they kinda skimped out on the carpet length......:eek:;)
I think the carpet length is fine. It would be a strain to put one's feet that far back and up that high. It's seems about the norm... at least the few other cars I tested were about the same.
 

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Yeah, the carpet is fine...I wonder what that thing is though....:D
 

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I checked mine tonight, it has the cover in the same spot, hard for me to see though, I have to practically put my head on the floor. I think mine (RT) may have more plastic below the knee bolster or something.

I'm considerably shorter than you (only 5'8") but feet about the same size. I felt around with my foot for the cover, and for me to hit it I'd have to make a considerable change to the way I drive. I'd have to put my whole foot over the accelerator to do that, typically I drive with my foot back and only really the ball of my foot on accelerator.

I may drive weird though, I have my heel between brake and accelerator so I don't have to move my foot a whole lot to go from gas to brake. So my foot is twisted outward some....really kills my knee on long trips but it probably became habit a long time ago, because I can heel-toe in a manual really easily.
 

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Concerning the original topic, probably not really a problem but something that caught me off guard....

I have to stop on a hill in a few places. Normally an automatic would hold the car in place if I took my foot off the brake, but with the cvt when I took my foot off the brake to step on gas, the car started to roll backward.
 
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