The other day i went to a sunoco gas station and put 5 gallons of 110 octane and guys i don't if u have gone thru the same thing but this car after 3rd gear (complete traction control off) it has SO MUCH torque steer that it's almost imposible to keep it in the same lane; i have this car for over a year and elieve me the torque steer that i been getting lately is almost imposible to do a decent race without scaring the other guy:jester:. Anyways i been looking around and i don't find anything in concrete that would actually get rid of this problem. Is anyone going thru the same problem?
Torque Steer!!!
SeaHook25
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^ i know thats why im hoping that someone else can agree or explain why that is cuz i almost dont believe myself. :jester:
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I have all 3 engine mounts (agp lower trans & bwoody passenger and driver side trans mounts) plus the bwoody t bars
also am lowered on RM springs
my car is quite peppy and goes nice and straight
I agree with glowbot that if you allow the car to tq steer you....it will seem like a wild ride
you must handle your WWD (wrong wheel drive) machine
also am lowered on RM springs
my car is quite peppy and goes nice and straight
I agree with glowbot that if you allow the car to tq steer you....it will seem like a wild ride
you must handle your WWD (wrong wheel drive) machine
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I have the same except for the traction bars and my car drives like a snake when u add a little race to the equation......don't think the Bwoody T bars will make that hell of a difference
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its advertised the front mount makes the most difference, imho getting the sides replaced is overkill for a daily. To much vibration.
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I just don't get Chrysler as to why we have this issue at all. Torque steer in FWD cars is not a new issue. Been around for decades and has been solved in quite a few vehicles or quite some time. So why couldn't Chrysler solve whats been done by others for many years?
My post on the 1st page was not so much about the torque steer as it was just putting the power down. With MS1 you can't put the power down in 1 and 2 unless you back off the throttle. If you back off the throttle you are decreasing your power so whats the point. Thats why they lowered the stock torque in 1 and 2, the computer was doing what your ending up doing yourself now. Thats why the 0-60 times didn't drop as much as everyone tought it would.
It's an even trade. With more power we loose time launching but we make it up once our tires hook up.
I'll give you an extreme example. I know a guy here in town that has a twin turbo Cobra. It has dynod at 900+ HP but his street tune is a conservitive 700+HP. When he hits the gas he has to baby the throttle to keep the rear end from passing him on the highway. He has to put on slicks in order to put the power down at the track.
To me this is a pointless waste of money for a daily driver. If you can't use all the power then why have it. When he babys the throttle to launch I'm willing to bet that car isn't even putting down 400hp.
Now once he gets moving it's hammer time so I guess again, it's a trade off. Cars that hook up good from a launch typically fall flat on the back end of the track. Cars that take a while to get traction typically drop the hammer on the back end. Not always the case but most of the time.
The Sway Bar.
The only thing I can think that would cause less tq. steer is the fact that the bar makes the wheels track evenly. Otherwise, one side can't rise without the other side going with it. If the two tires are tracking more even it's eliminating some of the torque twist that causes the car to pull to the left.
The strut bar should help eliminate some of that frame twist too but we have a really stiff frame to start so it's not like this thing is built out of balsa wood.
I think what we are missing in performance tuning this car is ways to make it lighter. When you've hit the top power you can put down it's time to start shedding weight to make it work better.
CF seats, some wheels under 20pds, a lighter battery, and of course no cats and lighter muffler are some ideas that would shed an easy 200lbs.
It's an even trade. With more power we loose time launching but we make it up once our tires hook up.
I'll give you an extreme example. I know a guy here in town that has a twin turbo Cobra. It has dynod at 900+ HP but his street tune is a conservitive 700+HP. When he hits the gas he has to baby the throttle to keep the rear end from passing him on the highway. He has to put on slicks in order to put the power down at the track.
To me this is a pointless waste of money for a daily driver. If you can't use all the power then why have it. When he babys the throttle to launch I'm willing to bet that car isn't even putting down 400hp.
Now once he gets moving it's hammer time so I guess again, it's a trade off. Cars that hook up good from a launch typically fall flat on the back end of the track. Cars that take a while to get traction typically drop the hammer on the back end. Not always the case but most of the time.
The Sway Bar.
The only thing I can think that would cause less tq. steer is the fact that the bar makes the wheels track evenly. Otherwise, one side can't rise without the other side going with it. If the two tires are tracking more even it's eliminating some of the torque twist that causes the car to pull to the left.
The strut bar should help eliminate some of that frame twist too but we have a really stiff frame to start so it's not like this thing is built out of balsa wood.
I think what we are missing in performance tuning this car is ways to make it lighter. When you've hit the top power you can put down it's time to start shedding weight to make it work better.
CF seats, some wheels under 20pds, a lighter battery, and of course no cats and lighter muffler are some ideas that would shed an easy 200lbs.
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arn't you still on your stock RSA's seahook? switching the rubber will help you for sure
I remember seeing that thing in March on the highway (I'm used to torque steer, but when you punched it next to me it freaked the hell outta me! hahaha...) I can see why random people your racing would be scared :jester::jester: good tactic to help win :laugh::laugh::laugh:
I remember seeing that thing in March on the highway (I'm used to torque steer, but when you punched it next to me it freaked the hell outta me! hahaha...) I can see why random people your racing would be scared :jester::jester: good tactic to help win :laugh::laugh::laugh:
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Yeah man i still got the ****y RSA's and to tell u the truth i don't think changing them will make any difference when it comes to torque steer but it will definitely help me hook up more on the first 3 gears>thats for sure :bigthumb:
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No offence but u most not be putting to much power down to the ground Whoodie cause i exhort anyone that lives down here on Miami with confidence> and that owns a CSRT4< to drive my car and i'll pay u if u can keep my car inside of the lane on 3rd and 4th: :nono:
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hey well $300 isnt much to lose if u get the sway bars as to buying a new set of rubber.
try it out hopefully u get the same results as i did.
and if u dont its better to have lossed $300 than $xxx on tires, regardless body roll will be way down as well.
try it out hopefully u get the same results as i did.
and if u dont its better to have lossed $300 than $xxx on tires, regardless body roll will be way down as well.
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Try this, I hear it will help you a lot: http://tinyurl.com/nhjlx4
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:stickpoke::laugh::banger:
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Remember that it's the torque what makes the car steer so much and the numbers from my dyno graph was on 93 octane, so 5 gallons of 110 on an empty tank truly made a hell of a difference. Anyway try doing the same i did and give some feedback on how your car did as for torque steer, i think it will definitely react different. Let me know:beerchug:
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I might end up doing this. Did it do a noticiable difference on your car? Can u give some more detail as for the before and after? Thanks Ice!:banger:
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